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*** Official S/S 2013 Runway Thread ***

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Jun 16, 2012.

  1. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

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    Band of Outsiders ende up not being the longest show ever, that was taken away today by Pierre Cardin. First time I see 130+ looks at a runway show (though I´ve only been following the shows for 2 or 3 years).
     
  2. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Ha, almost posted the exact same thing, had a look at another Cardin show from a couple years ago the other day just to get an idea and it was about the same.



    ^^ GoldenTribe

    I just wanted to post clearer pics from the presentation :confused:


    I get what you're saying but tbh if you hadn't mentionned McQueen, CdG and Raf (didn't even remember than one) they wouldn't have come to mind while looking at this (didn't think you were accusing anyone of ripping anybody off though...), for the time being I just enjoy the peek into the creative process with little concern for what the end result will look like
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Not that I don't agree with the sentiment that the teasing has to stop at some point and clothes have to be shown, but Aitor is definitely working and has been perfecting a lot of the techniques he wants to use in his clothing. I mean, look at the skulls. They are stitched edge to edge with no overlapping seams and according to his press release, they are working on doing that with all of the clothing for the coming collection. That's bloody incredible if you ask me and also takes time to perfect.

    Some excerpts from the press release:

    "It has taken the design studio approximately 6 years to construct the final 'blocks' from which to construct every subsequent design. The blocking system is a specific construction pattern, which determines the shapes of the pieces to be stitched together."

    "Expanding on the studio's unwillingness to utilize traditional solutions, there is also a unified way in which all pieces are sewn. Through years of research and development, a unique process has been developed which allows the studio to stitch virtually any piece of material to another piece without the need for seam allowance. This revolutionary technique utilizes a specific type of vintage sewing machine - in a completely idiosyncratic way - that allows every panel to be stitched edge-to-edge. This instantly simplifies the aesthetic nature of each piece, and creates objects that are much more architectural: more focused on panels than seams."


    Another thing to take into account is that Aitor's marketing is probably more frustrating only because we are used to the current fashion industry model. He is doing so much work on teasing his brand and building awareness right now precisely because he is going to be working outside the general fashion system and his brand is all about the processes he uses to design and make his stuff, not primarily about the clothing or accessories in and of themselves. The skull backpack for example gains more meaning when viewed in the context of the backstory he has for it. He is telling a story through his clothing so the behind the scenes stuff is as (if not more) important than what we will finally see and be able to purchase. In a way, we have already seen what the coming collection is going to be since he is only going to be working on stuff from a group of archetypes he has developed over the years - various iterations of really cool pants with cargo pouches and extended hems to cover the feet, transformable hats, shirts with straps to allow for easy combination with the skull pouches, a riding jacket of some sort (that might have been shown already in one of his drawings), transforming jackets with masks and scarves built in, and of course the skull bags. We have already seen all that stuff in drawings or from his older collections and exhibitions, so now he has to sell us the story behind that stuff AND his work process.

    I am really in awe of what he is attempting to do as a designer and I really hope it turns out to be successful for him. Can't think of any other designer who is interested in building actual concrete narratives for their clothing as opposed to just selling an ambience.

    Won't go for one of those skull backpacks, but I can see myself strewn with the skull pouches at some point in the future :embar:.

    Has anyone seen Obscur? Beautiful stuff. Styling was excellent (maybe because I am partial to the imagery of Victorian-era medicine. And aprons. And sleeves that act as gloves.)
     
  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some of my favorite shots from the Obscur lookbook (?). Apparently the collection is going to be primarily "...experimental paper-cottons, linen and cotton mixes, thin and airy horse leather skins and pure silver"


    [​IMG]

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    More here
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
    2 people like this.
  5. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Can't say I ever cared about Obscur but I had a quick look earlier and it's impressive.
     
  6. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Yeah, that first look, that's what I'm talking about
     
  7. hoozah

    hoozah Senior member

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    love this coat

    [​IMG]
     
  8. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I really like this. Makes me think of Fulani, and more specifically, Wodaabe herdsmen. But, is it meant to be a Spring/Summer collection? So many sweaters, wraps and coats that look to be made from wool.
     
  10. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    He only does one collection a year (only one size too I think) and it's out right now so I figured... : ) that voluminous blue coat in the 4th pic seems somewhat spring-friendly.

    I need to get my hands on some of that stuff and report back.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Only one size...hmmm if it is sipang friendly I might be interested as well. Some of those shirts look really nice and that blue coat as well is perfect from what I can see.
     
  12. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Aitor Throup is most impressive to me because of that construction process he's developed. Sounds pretty incredible, like issey-miyake-level incredible. I find the whole thing frustrating and fascinating at the same time. In spite of any annoyance I feel with all the teasing I still can't wait to see some actual clothes.

    The van essche stuff looks good. Liked a bunch of Christophe Lemaire too.

    What were thoughts on Damir? A lot less (melo)dramatic than usual, in my opinion, which isn't a bad thing. I was a bit unimpressed on first look, but it's already growing on me. He said in that interview shah posted in the high-fashion/runway thread that Armani's shapes have been a big influence, and I can definitely see that. I like it. I think he does really beautiful fabrics too and I would love to see some high-res detail shots of the clothes.

    Just a general thought: I've developed a sense of fatigue with slim silhouettes. Because fashion is so saturated with that shape, it almost feels like it's not a real choice, just a given that designers accept as their starting point. I know that's not necessarily true in all cases, but it seems that way in many of them. I think that's why Yohji feels so new at the moment, even though he's been doing his thing forever (doesn't hurt that he's been putting out exceptional collections lately).
     
  13. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    I sure hope it's sipang friendly, I always forget to check out the store when I'm in Antwerp since it's a bit out of my way but I believe the time has come.
     
  14. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Where'd you see the Lemaire stuff p4 ? Couldn't find anything earlier.

    edit: ha found it, shitty style.com
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  15. Johan

    Johan Well-Known Member

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    How do you guys feel about Damir Doma's collection ?

    I havent read a lot of enthusiastic comments so I feel I may be the only one to appreciate it.

    His FW 2012 collection was already a win in my book (despite the KVA-like looks), mainly because of the larger color palette and use of prints. I'm glad he's going further in this direction.

    Maybe it lacks a theme though, but there's plenty of stuff I would wear myself (and I'm a Margiela/DVN guy).
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  16. andrewgreg

    andrewgreg Senior member

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    Totally agree. I think so far Ann D is the most outstanding.
     
  17. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    Some good looks from new German designer Tillman Lauterbach.



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    Looks like a slightly more refined Ervell, imo. Might just be the styling with the cap that makes me compare them.
     
  18. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Really like that Lauterbach stuff. Will check more out.

    I like Damir. His fw12 show was really amazing in my opinion. This collection isn't as consistent to me, but there are a lot of individual pieces I like quite a bit. Everyone is still playing for second to Yohji though.
     
  19. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    agreed, the consistency is what keeps him from making a great collection vs just awesome pieces

    and bolded part is of course the truf
    aint nothin but a yohji party
     
  20. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    istruly recked

    of course, when you charge $234083430821435 for one glove, all you need is a single item to sell to cover the costs of your entire collection

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     

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