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*** Official Norwegian Rain Bergen by T Michael Thread ******** - Rainchos, S-Capes, Rive Gauche coa

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Jan 30, 2016.

  1. TheLondoner

    TheLondoner Well-Known Member

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    I bought the Geneve, size L, in mixed navy. Roomy fit, perfect to be worn over a suit and/or some kind of midlayer. Shame the sleeves are a bit too long, but then the M would have made it harder to layer underneath. The style is perfect for me, because I can wear it over a suit without looking too pretentious, but also over a pair of jeans without looking like I’m on some kind of hiking expedition (which is the look you get with some Arcteryx Patagonia etc.).


    I find the Geneve perfect for the kind of mid-season we have now in London; I typically wear a shirt and a midlayer in the morning (Arcteryx Atom LT vest), then go out at lunchtime without the midlayer as it’s typically warmer, and in the evening I may or may not wear the midlayer depending on the day. When the weather varies so much all the time, I don’t want to constantly zip the midlayer in and out, so not having a zip-in layer works OK for me.


    I have tried the hood in the rain and it works very well, despite the lack of adjustment strings (just some adjustment buttons). I must say it is the first hood from a non-outdoor brand (the likes of Arcteryx, Patagonia, The North Face, etc.) which is functional and actually protects me from prolonged rain without blinding me completely. I think all Norwegian Rain hoods are the same but I’m not 100% sure. The only comment is that a few times some strong winds pushed the hood backwards, which happens more rarely with Arcteryx hoods that I can adjust with strings, but it’s nothing major. I quite never understood why non-outdoor brands are so incapable of coming up with a functional hood – it’s not rocket science, yet a functional hood is so convenient in a city like London, where it often rains unpredictably, and you don’t drive everywhere like you would in most of the US. I walked about 40 minutes under the rain and this thingy kept me dry.


    As I wrote in my other post, if you are very thin and have a small chest (regardless of whether you have a beer belly or not!) the single-breasted coat will be a better fit; the main difference is not so much the waist but the shoulder and the chest, much tighter in the SB than in the Geneve.


    I don’t like the fact that the two internal zip pockets have vertical zips which you open pulling the zip up from the bottom., but it’s not the end of the world. Pockets with a horizontal opening give easier access, and pulling up, as opposed to pulling down as is more commonly the case, means I often have to use both hands: one to keep the fabric in place, the other to open the zip.


    The fabric drapes very well and the pockets are reasonably spacious. Clearly I cannot store huge gloves or sunglasses cases like I could on some Michelin-man winter puffy parka, but the Geneve is a reasonable compromise, in the sense that I can easily store wallet, phone and headset; by contrast, in some super thin 3-layer Goretex coats, including some ridiculously expensive Arcteryx Veilance gear, the fabric can be so thin and crispy that the moment you store as much as a coin in a pocket, it protrudes with a visible bulge. Ok, not a coin, but I tried the Veilance Partition LT coat in a store https://veilance.arcteryx.com/gb/en/shop/mens/partition-lt-coat and my thin, minimalist wallet bulged quite visibly.


    I bought the deep mixed navy, which looks great on jeans but is a bit harder to match with darker, more formal trousers. The mixed charcoal would have probably been more versatile but it wasn’t available when I ordered it. The jacket comes with a satin lining inside, which is fine for the midseason, but is not as breathable as mesh in the summer, nor does it add any warmth when it gets colder.

    In this older thread https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...iate-thread-٭٭٭.358758/page-2237#post-8507391 I found an explanation of the kinds of fabrics: LW means (surprise, surprise…) lightweight and SLW super lightweight. Jackets with LW and SLW fabrics come with an inner mesh lining, not the satin one, which (the mesh) should increase breathability and venting. The link shows a picture of a Geneve coat with an SLW fabric and the mesh lining. As far as I can see from their website, the Geneve is currently available in ordinary fabrics only, not in LW or SLW. An explanation on their website would have been useful. The Bumfreezer summer edition is available in SLW fabrics, but their site has no picture of what it looks like on the inside.
     

  2. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Button works less well than draw string for sure, in terms of on the fly changing hood size (at least for me). Though button does keep the whole look a lot “cleaners”. Great review maybe i’ll pick Geneva for spring/summer (already got the red Moscow for winter)
     

  3. happyriverz

    happyriverz Senior Member

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    I wish the Geneve Homme had the longer length as the Geneve Femme.
     

  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    anyone own both single breast and moscow? I have the red herringbone moscow, was thinking maybe I'll get single breast in olive or something like that, then with the removable lining I can make it slightly carry more seasons...
     

  5. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    You should try the SB on first with and without the lining to see if you like the fit both ways. Also with and without a suit jacket depending on how you intend to wear it. You may find you like the fit better with or without the lining and only wear it that way, limiting its versatility.
     

  6. thatboyo

    thatboyo Senior Member

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    i have both. If you plan on getting liner you probably have to size up. I didn’t bother with lining
     

  7. platformtwo

    platformtwo Member

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    Is it just me or are the sleeves on the Single/Double breasted particularly long? I'm a size 38 usually, which seems to correlate with the size M, but the sleeve measurements on their website would probably go to my fingertips.

    Alternatively, I'm a size S in the Veilance partition and monitor coats, and the sleeves (and the coats in general) fit me perfectly. How does the two brands' sizing compare? Thanks!
     

  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    overcoat is suppose to be long (I have Moscow), I'm US 36 and I'm short (5'7") even though sleeve seems long it's actually perfect
     

  9. platformtwo

    platformtwo Member

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    Thanks! Just checking, do you also have a size M?
     

  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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  11. TheLondoner

    TheLondoner Well-Known Member

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    Quick update: in the summer I also bought the bumfreezer summer edition, in a superlightweight fabric, which comes with an inner mesh. The fabric is great, waterproof but not crispy and noise like the typical 3-layer GoreTex; the mesh helps with breathability.


    By contrast, the satin-like lining in the Geneve hinders breathability, a lot. Even when it’s just 15C/59F and I am simply walking to a station with just a cotton shirt underneath, I often sweat a bit and find the lining damp from the sweat. The outer fabric may be breathable, but that means very little if, between you and the breathable fabric, there is a lining which makes a plastic-bag effect!


    Can anyone comment on the breathability of the Moscow? It’s got the same satin lining as the Geneve at the bottom and probably behind the shoulder, but shearling on the chest, which should be more breathable – is that really the case? Of course it’s all very subjective – I probably sweat more than most.
     

  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    I only wear Moscow when it’s below freezing point, so never really notice either way I suppose...
     

  13. TheLondoner

    TheLondoner Well-Known Member

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    So it will probably be too warm for me anyway, as it rarely gets below freezing in London and, even when it does, I'm always running around, with a tendency to overheat!

    Norwegian Rain has a new "hybrid parka"; it looks much less formal than the Moscow and comes with a removable lining, covering chest and arms. It's still not on their website, but you can see it here:

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/m65-hybrid-parka-in-orange-hopsack-fabric.html

    https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...1b9/1535395106070/M65+HYBRID4.jpg?format=500w


    Not my cup of tea: I find it much less stylish than most of NR's coats, and too similar to puffy oversized parkas made by outerwear brands like The North Face etc, with the difference that those tend to be substantially cheaper and lighter. But to each their own, of course.
     

  14. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Why not just single breast and don’t put the removable lining on?
     

  15. TheLondoner

    TheLondoner Well-Known Member

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    The single breasted is too tight in the chest and shoulders (not on the waist) for me; it seems to have the same weight of the Geneve, which I have. I think I said in a previous comment that I find the fit of the SB very weird: it can accommodate beer bellies because it's not tight on the waist, but it doesn't seem to fit wide shoulders or athletic chests.
     

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