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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)***

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkIslander, Dec 7, 2010.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Well it looks like I'll be keeping my mouth shut for the most part. My only concern is if the fit is too tight or too baggy for my taste I would like to speak up. Some of the stuff you guys discuss is over my head and I just want the suit to look good.
     
  2. bant

    bant Senior member

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    It's your suit dude - fine to give a little guidance on the look you're going for, but don't micromanage.
     
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Quote:Certainly don't keep quiet, and let your opinion be known. Forex isn't entirely correct, and neither is pBooth - the true answer lies somewhere between their respective positions.
     
  4. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    That's fine, you should have had the general discussion with Frank already about your preferences on general fit. Outside of nitpicky stuff that exists on the interwebz, I wouldn't worry too much about it. My first suit was really wonky for the first fitting. The back was way too tight and the sleeves were way short. Obvious stuff like that they notice immediately, which seems to be your concern, so I wouldn't stress. They cleaned it up twice. It's still slightly tighter then my second (which was pretty much perfect for the first fitting), and it could likely be cleaned up further, which they are more than happy to do (kettle bells caused my lats to expand between items, and I stopped recently so I haven't bothered to have them clean it up). But if you see it pulling anywhere, or you want it to be a little more snug, just ask Frank his opinion. I have about a bunch of random things, and I'm a total noob at this stuff. I always learn something new, and he either convinces me that it's a bad idea or agrees that we should try it.

    You are in good hands there, but don't be afraid to ask a question if you have it; as long as it's honest and polite, the worst thing that happens is you learn something.
     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is true about Frank. He prefers close to loose. I had to really pull his leg to get the chests I like on my suits.
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    anyone get an overcoat from him?
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have one.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013
  8. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    NYI has I believe. No surprise there...
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not bad. Was thinking of a fawn covert coat ...
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you already have a camel hair coat?
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yeah but it's very thick and warm. I kinda want a medium weight "topcoat" for days when a suit is not enough and my two other coats are too much.

    So, I would change yours in the follownig ways:

    -Rake the lapel points up a bit
    -Narrow the wrap a hair
    -bring the show buttons in by an inch or so
    -line up the pockets with the bottom buttons

    Other than that, it looks good. And really, I can't say anything bad about the way it lays, my changes are purely stylistic.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Thank you all for the advice.
     
  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I saw him yesterday and I actually mentioned to him the top buttons getting moved in closer. It is something that has been bugging me. The pockets on all of my stuff post this coat have been lowered. I too realized they were a bit high. It is very drapey, I didn't want that too pinched look. Comfy chest.

    If you get a fawn covert coat would you get it with a ticket pocket? I see them with ticket pockets so often I am thinking they should be there, but for a city coat I am not sure that you would want it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    no ticket for me
     
  15. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    They just made me a SB coat with a detachable (button-in) belt. I don't know how to post pictures but if you want to see what it looks like (with the belt), there's a picture posted on the FrancoErcole tumbler.
     
  16. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    X-post:

     
    1 person likes this.
  17. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    MANTON, here are my two:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I plan on another great coat next winter.
     
  18. Maquis

    Maquis Senior member

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    Not sure if this is the right thread for this question, but does anyone have any experience/suggestions on linen cloth for a spring/summer sportcoat? I was down at Ercole's today and was talking with Frank about having one made up...

    I've looked at several linen books—W.Bill, Drapers, Cacciopoli, and the London Lounge linen offerings—but today I came across this 15 oz bright navy linen from the Loro Piana Mare book (13308). While I especially liked the W. Bill, the Mare was striking. It had an amazing hand—heavy, chunky, and dry—but it also moved like it was already broken-in. Has anyone had any experience with this book?


    [​IMG]

    I'm thinking of having it made up as a minimally lined 3-roll-2 (or alternately a one-button) with notch lapels, double vents, patch hip pockets and breast welt pocket. I haven't fully decided on the buttons, but I'm thinking of smoked MOP (or if this is too contrast-y or pimped-out, I might go with a lighter horn...) I also may decide to have a pair of pants made up later to have the option of a blazer suit.

    Any wisdom or advice from the SF hive mind will be greatly appreciated.
     
  19. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    Beautiful color cloth. I understand the appeal of a thicker linen, it does have a nice hand and probably drapes well. For me though, if I am going to get a summer cloth, I am going to do it at a weight that I can actually wear during the summer.
     
  20. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I am having NSM make a heavy linen DB for the summer. I'll find out soon enough if that was a wise decision.
     

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