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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)***

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkIslander, Dec 7, 2010.

  1. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    I think the length looks okay as is for your proportions, maybe a tiny bit more if that's what you're more comfortable with. I certainly disagree with the 1.25 inches, but I'm as far from an expert as you can get, and my eye is very amateurish.
     
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I has such a clean look, I will also add length for about 3/4 inches to give a better proportion, well done and great look blazer and suit
     
  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I has such a clean look, I will also add length for about 3/4 inches to give a better proportion, well done and great look blazer and suit
     
  4. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    It will be lengthened slightly. Also adjusting the gorge slightly upwards.
    Still trying to decide if I like the lining on the lavender windowpane Moonbeam--my better half convinced me to go with a pinkish peach lining. Unexpected, to say the least.
     
  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Both look shapeless to me, hopefully the end product will look better.
     
  6. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    They have a healthy amount of shape at the right places, this is from a guy who really prefers slim & shapely. They'll turn out awesome.
     
  7. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    It probably has more to do with the shapeless wearer (that would be me) rather than the suit. :embar:
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2012
  8. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I think they both look fine and are certainly not shapeless.
     
  9. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    Suit still has a couple tweaks that need to be made, but here is the Moonbeam jacket:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    That looks great, Gopher.
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would open the fronts a bit more beginning below the second button
     
  12. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    I was also thinking that the quarters should be opened a touch, and that the lapels roll a bit too low. In fact, in the earlier fitting picture, the quarters looked a bit more open and the lapel roll started a bit higher up. I also think it may need to be lengthened a tiny bit.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2012
  13. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    In short, I prefer the earlier fitting, overall. Specifically, what you said.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I agree with your assessment.
     
  15. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Gopher, post pictures of side and back. I don't know why fronts are more closed, could be balance issue.
    Re lapel roll, it seems like lapels are bowing so maybe not enough room in the chest?
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2012
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You're implying short front balance. This doesn't have it, it is just how frank makes them. If the fronts were short the horizontal lines in the pattern would form a ^ shape below the button point.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2012
  17. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    Also, because the photos were taken from high chest height angled down slightly, there is some keystoning to the photos.
     
  18. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    I agree with PB, quarters could be opened more. This seems to be a consistent issue with Frank (was on my initial suits as well) but one that is easily corrected. I prefer the lapels of the first fitting. I think there is something a little frumpy about the lapels in the second fitting, it is a combination of the low buttoning point and the amount of belly.

    I continue to be impressed with how well Frank can fit a shoulder, the shoulder on that jacket really really good.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2012
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On my next commissions I am going to ask Frank for some more belly in my lapels. He usually cuts them a bit a bit "straight". I think the roll would look a bit more pronounced with more belly.
     
  20. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    I like a 3 roll 2 or a 3 roll 2.5
     

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