Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkIslander, Dec 7, 2010.
Spalla camicia without a doubt
I haven't see Frank's spalla camica. I didn't know he did it.
He says he is able to do it, although I haven't seen it in person. I'm sure his father knows how, but I can't say for certain.
Most of the stuff he has made for me has it. It is clean set though so not as apparent as the puffy Mina shoulders. I like it, it is subtler. His father also yells at me for insisting on it for suits. He asserts that it should be done on more casual things only.
Yea Frank's Spalla is a real "Brooklyn-Napoletan" shoulder, a lot cleaner than the ones you see from Naples. Its a different animal. I've started with roped shoulders with him, then moved to his Saplla, and now am back to roped...
OK guys, here it is. I got 2 suits from Frank, a wheat fresco and a navy. They look good, but are a little longer in the back than in the front. I like the dark brown buttons on the fresco. The fresco pants came out very well; they fit and drape beautifully.
Thanks to forex for recommending the fabrics and for his continuous help and advise along the way.
Of course, feedback is welcome:
This vent is extending:
This vent looks great:
...and the navy (pants needed some work in the front):
Hopefully someone with good eye will chime in, I think that the balance on both jackets is a bit off. Wheat jacket seems shorter on one side, that might be causing the vent on one side to open. Navy jacket has a balance issue as well, back slightly longer that front.
I also think that lapels could stand to be a little wider, maybe by half an inch, wheat jacket shoulders look great, like it a lot.
Having seen these on you in person, I now see how damn difficult photography is. The wheat suit is fantastic, but the color just doesn't show in these pics. As far as lapels, you're a slim guy, I think going any bigger would border cartoonish to me, put that's just personal taste. Even with the balance issues, when we were in the shop you couldn't tell...I wonder if all of these balance issue that seem to pop up in every bespoke thread are just the fact that we're standing awkwardly. Whatever the case, they are so miniscule irl, I don't think its even worth tinkering. Bespoke is a custom process, but because the maker in human, it'll never be a perfect one.
MKarim, can you share what you asked for that yielded the differences in the shoulders between the two jackets?
Well, keep in mind, not all shirt-set sleeves from Naples are of the sort you describe. In fact, I would say that the versions exported for those who want "Neapolitan" tend to be more obvious and exaggerated. The ones on my jackets are very subtle.
I think this looks pretty good. Two things right off the bat: (1) is the front balance a bit short are you leaning back in that side photo? and (2) breast pocket is crying out for some curvature.
The "Neapolitan shoulder" refers to the way the sleeve is stitched to the body, not the shoulder line.
I wasn't referring to the shoulder line, I don't know how you read that.
I am glad that you noticed short front on the navy jacket.
On the breast pocket. I definitely agree. His standard, as Axelman has stated looks a bit like a band-aid.
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