***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)***

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkIslander, Dec 7, 2010.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Look at any decent 11oz.-12oz. book. Lesser's 11oz. book and Smith's Blue Riband are good starting points. I'm also a big fan of Dugdales' Royal Classics collection (which'll also be cheaper than Lesser / Smith.)
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012
  2. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    If you want a navy suit jacket that can stand in for a blazer, look at a heavy plain weave, like the 14/15oz fresco in H&S Crispaire (actually made for H&S by Huddersfield/Minnis, I think.)

    IMHO, for a navy suit jacket to pass as a odd jacket, it needs either the hopsack-y texture of the above or you need to rusticate it with details like patch pockets and so on.
     
  3. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Wow - two answers like that within the hour and they still say the quality of SF has been going down the drain.
     
  4. brooklyn

    brooklyn Senior member

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    Thanks for the response and will be sure to keep this in mind when I go back
     
  5. brooklyn

    brooklyn Senior member

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    I agree with you about having a texture similar to hopsack but I am not sure how the pants would look. I considered patch pockets but I think it would make the suit to casual for work. They had a similar jacket in the window and when I asked frank about what they used he pulled out the Scabal book which was way out of my price range. Since this will be my first suit from them I don't want to break the bank.
     
  6. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    If you can, save for the better fabric. To me it doesn't pay to save a couple of hundred bucks on fabric when you spend upwards of 1.5K on a suit. It'll be worth it in the long run as well. As long as he's not showing you the $5000 suit books. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to find a good fabric that won't kill you. Even if you order through minnis direct for a good fresco/flannel it will cost around $500 for a suit length, but I know Frank's upcharge on fabric is very low, and offsets the cost or need to go get fabric on your own. As a tailor he generally can get better prices buying fabrics wholesale than folks like us going the retail route. Good luck!
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    +1
     
  8. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    Blazersuit question:

    I am in the final stages of completing a Minnis Fresco RAF blue blazersuit with Ercoles. I am getting brown horn buttons on the coat. Question: should I also get brown horn buttons on the rear trouser pockets and the button fly of the trousers (there are currently dark blue/black buttons I think)?

    Second question for Ercole vets: when getting a side-vented jacket, has Frank sewn in a "belt" between the two sides, running underneath the rear flap of the vent?

    Thanks
    Goph
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2012
  9. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I didn't specify the buttons on pants so they are either blue or black. Coat buttons are brown horn and yes on the stitching on side vents, it is just decorative.
     
  10. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    I don't ask for the belt between the two vents...and I usually have my trouser buttons match the buttons on the jacket.
     
  11. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    Also think its about time the thread title was changed...:D
     
  12. emc894

    emc894 Senior member

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    I tried Chan for two suits and spent about $1,500-1,700 on each, and am not thrilled with them. I think not having multiple fittings really hurt the end product. I'm going to try Ercoles for a herringbone tweed jacket and if that works out probably buy a grey flannel suit.
     
  13. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    I think the back pocket buttons should definitely match the coat buttons, no? But what about the fly? I have a button fly--even though there is a fabric fly front covering them, would brown horn buttons stand out too much there (i.e, be a distraction or look affected)?
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can't get in to a fitting on my next suit. Too busy. :(
     
  15. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    I would get all the buttons the same color, I cant envision a situation that would call for a different approach. I will also say that unless you expect a lot of people to be staring at your crotch, I think you are over thinking this one.
     

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