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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)***

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkIslander, Dec 7, 2010.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I agree, I think they would look much better slightly longer too.
     
  2. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Is his father the one who knows how to do the shoulder?
     
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is either of them. But if you ask for any kind of spalla shoulder with a suit from Ercole be prepared to be yelled at.
     
  4. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I can always dish it back :fence:
     
  5. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    I've always taken the advise from this forum with a grain of salt (albeit valuable at times) and I think the whole "You need more open quarters" is a lot more relevant when a person is of a certain build and stature. I know everyone here woo's over the open quarter Neapolitan stuff, but it doesn't work on everyone...
     
  6. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    agreed. half inch would add to the balance.
     
  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    slightly more would make the jacket look like it fits better. too closed quarters makes the jacket look slightly oversized.
     
  8. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    For someone like me though, open quarters makes me look more "hippy" which is the primary gripe most people on here have with my stuff. The guy in the photos seems to look very bulky as well, and perhaps open Q's on him would create the same issue...
     
  9. jacksonvillian

    jacksonvillian Active Member

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    The first one is golden bale h. lesser 11oz. the second is a john g hardy lambswool. the final is a harrison's moonbeam
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I personally feel the hips on your stuff looks fine, however it is exacerbated by the very waisted look you like and very fitted chest. I think your suits would look much better with *gasp* more drape in the chest to balance out the top half. That is what I have Frank do my my stuff now. I have teh love handles from when I was a fatty and more in the chest balances the hips.
     
  11. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    Quote: I think Frank is open to doing it with the "wrinkles". I asked him about putting a bit more curvature in the breast pocket, and he seemed more than happy to do it and it sparked a little conversation. He said he tends to steer away from that and putting "wrinkles" in the shoulders because most people don't get it. Maybe Ercoles is different, but Frank seemed like he was wishing for more people to ask him for neapolitan touches. This was my only ever conversation with Frank, so take that for what it is.
     
  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    what did you get made at Ercole's?
     
  13. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    A navy birdseye two piece suit and a shirt. If all goes well, there will be several more shirt orders, another suit, and a jacket in the very near future. The necessities in my work wardrobe just changed drastically so it seemed like a good time, and excuse, to start investing. It's a hike for me to get up there (coming from Philadelphia area) but it certainly seems like I made the right decision so far. I'll try to take pictures at the fittings.
     
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    looking forward to it.
     
  15. Knowledge is King

    Knowledge is King Senior member

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    I already mentioned this earlier in the thread but I had a similar conversation with Frank. However i didn't get the impression that he necessarily wanted people to ask for typical Neapolitan touches. He said he didn't want to make a 3 roll 2 because most people, especially coworkers, won't understand it (and it makes dry cleaning difficult). I mentioned the breast pocket also but he didn't give me any indication that he wanted to try a new style. His views on the jacket took me by surprise and gave me pause but we were on the same page when it came to the pants. Overall I was a little bummed about our conversation because Frank seems like a good guy to do business with. But realistically, it didn't seem like having to push back to get a 3 roll 2 or barchetta pocket was a good foot to start on. Maybe as more people ask him for these features, he'll develop this style but it didn't seem like he was interested in doing it for me.
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's strange, Frank never have me any pushback on any of those things.
     
  17. Knowledge is King

    Knowledge is King Senior member

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    Yeah I was sort of shocked too since I had seen all of your photos, Rob's photos, forex's photos....

    I didn't know what to make of it but the most recent pics of MKarim and jacksonvillian are the style he was trying to guide me towards
     
  18. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    Actually your post was the reason I didn't bring up a 3 roll 2 at all. I deferred to him on a lot of little details that I didn't particularly care about, then I just brought up the barchetta pocket as a question, and he seemed happy to do it and excited I asked. He went in to why he avoids some neapolitan touches but brought up the dimples in the shoulders specifically; I just kind of read in a bit of disappointment that he doesn't get to do it given the context and tone of the conversation, and I could have been mistaken. The only thing where there was any real back and forth was over a 1/4" on the cuffs of the pants, and I didn't push very hard at all and said I would defer to him, which ended up being to go with my request. In general he seemed very accommodating; though my requests were more questions than requests and seemed to end up with him pulling jackets he was working on from the back to see what I preferred and what he thought would work on me. That said, I didn't go in with a certain fit I wanted him to copy, we just had a conversation about what he likes to do, what he thinks would work best for me, and some things I'm drawn to and if they would or wouldn't work for me. He seemed very easy going outside of the cuffs.
     
  19. Knowledge is King

    Knowledge is King Senior member

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    Sounds like you had a good give and take conversation that you can build on. Frank was easy going with me too and I hope i'm not giving the impression of anything otherwise. I did go in with a very general configuration in mind (3 roll 2 with soft shoulder and wider, straight cut lapels) and I guess he just wanted to do something different (for what seemed like non aesthetic reasons). I think deferring to the tailor is a smart thing to do in many cases, but for me, this didnt seem like one of those cases.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  20. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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