(Official?) Fit Critique Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Edgar Allan Pwn, Apr 11, 2011.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    +1 to Acridsheep and Luftvier.

    Mktitsworth, do you buy 40L jackets? Your profile says you wear 40Rs. All of your jackets are too long, too wide in the chest, and lack open quarters. You might even need a 38R.

    Plus, the high button stances don't flatter your build.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Ditto. What's a strap?

    If the "strap" is the over shoulder measurement, isn't it part-and-parcel with a balance issue?
     


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    The waist of the jacket is above the natural waist. The length is a bigger problem, though.
     


  4. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If the front balance were short, the skirt should stand away from him and it seems to sit flat which is why I feel it is a strap issue, not a balance issue.

    The strap is the measurement from the center back neck to the front breastline and is affected by the position of the neck point. In this case it seems the neck point was incorrectly positioned, resulting in a short start which makes the fronts scissor and hike (watch how the plaid lifts toward center front and the vertical lines converge toward the hem- very obvious in the skirt of this coat). The opposite of this would be a coat whose strap was too long and which swings away at the bottom (affectionately known as a "swinger").



    [​IMG]
     


  5. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If the "strap" is the over shoulder measurement, isn't it part-and-parcel with a balance issue?
    The balance can be correct but the neck point incorrect IOW the neck point is correctly located on the vertical axis which determines what we commonly consider balance but incorrect on the horizontal axis. Then we get into that whole "straight/crooked" cut debate which bores even me.
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ Thanks for the explanation. You are seeing the same problem I'm seeing. However, I'm not seeing how a short 'strap' is distinct from a short front balance, as the former is a measurement while the latter (at least in my understanding) is a resulting effect.
     


  7. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Leave it to jefferyd to come and ruin a fun and hostile thread with his reasonable, clear and useful explanations. Now, instead of a flame war we can all actually learn something. [​IMG]

    Good thread idea, but I doubt it will work out.

    And, mktitsworth, I think you would benefit from sizing down your jackets. In any case, this one fits you very good, but it still needs some work (in my non-expert opinion):

    - Slim down the silhouette a little.
    - Ask your tailor to re-cut the quarters so they are more open. It will make a big difference.

    Overall, a very good fit! Good job.
     


  8. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Mktitsworth's jacket doesn't need cinching. It's front balance is short. 100 foopoints to the first person who's already posted in this thread who can explain what that means.
    100!? You give them away too easily. Am I still the only one actually having foopoints?
     


  9. matsui

    matsui Well-Known Member

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    Not sure about the fit of my jacket here, and I didn't want to make a new thread for it, so I'm glad this thread came up:

    [​IMG]
     


  10. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    I'm not sure a single thread is the best idea. Say, once this thread is up and running, there could easily be two or three (or more) critiques going in one thread. I can see it getting a bit confusing which comment applies to which critique request.
    +1 My thoughts exactly.

    I think a separate thread for each single critique makes more sense. The critique request is made; all comments on the outfit are made, and the thread ends naturally. In the single thread scenario, it will be difficult to determine when one critique ends and another begins as there will be several going at once.
    +1 again. At first, I thought maybe EAP's suggestion could work if we had a separate fit critique thread for suits, another for shirts, another for sport coats, etc. But I think even that would get unwieldy in a hurry.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i think this thread is a great idea. i visit mc less often becuase half the threads i see on page 1 say critique this or new suit fit that, blah blah blah....maybe im just lazy but sifting through it can be a chore

    not that i have anything against people wanting an honest opinion on their new items from people more knowledgable than they are. its part of the value of this forum

    however a single thread dedicated to this will make up for a lot less cluter and cut down on the amount of new threads. i find a lot of good threads get pushed down to page 2,3 or even 4 before they have a chance to realize their full potential. id like to have the chance to catch the more unique and interesting threads before they disappear to someone wanting to know if the left sleeve on his new shirt comes too far down in his palm.

    after the pinned items right now there is only a 1 hour and 50 minute time differential from the first thread on page 1 to the last one. that doesnt leave much time for a thread to develop properly

    as far as it getting confusing. we are all fairly intelligent adults here. use the quote or multi quote, refer to the poster by name. it cant be that hard. people do it in WAYWRN all day.

    just my 2 cents, carry on then
     


  12. jack220

    jack220 Active Member

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    Problem with this thread, and SF in general is people who are clueless feel a need to add worthless comments to an otherwise good thread.
    When talking about fit (and not 'style' preferences - but hey I dont think 99% of the people here know the difference when instead of commenting on 'fit' they say 'buttoning stance is too high', 'lapel too thin' etc).
    Leave the comments to tailors aka
    Despos, jefferyd, a tailor.
    If they're too busy, then let this die
     


  13. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Problem with this thread, and SF in general is people who are clueless feel a need to add worthless comments to an otherwise good thread.
    When talking about fit (and not 'style' preferences - but hey I dont think 99% of the people here know the difference when instead of commenting on 'fit' they say 'buttoning stance is too high', 'lapel too thin' etc).
    Leave the comments to tailors aka
    Despos, jefferyd, a tailor.
    If they're too busy, then let this die


    I think you shouldn't post your opinions in written form on this forum unless you are a professional writer with at least 2 blockbusters under your belt.
     


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Problem with this thread, and SF in general is people who are clueless feel a need to add worthless comments to an otherwise good thread.When talking about fit (and not 'style' preferences - but hey I dont think 99% of the people here know the difference when instead of commenting on 'fit' they say 'buttoning stance is too high', 'lapel too thin' etc).
    Leave the comments to tailors aka
    Despos, jefferyd, a tailor.
    If they're too busy, then let this die


    wow, those sentiments and you still felt the need to make that post. a self fulfilling prophecy of sorts [​IMG]

    high five acecow
     


  15. either/or

    either/or Senior member

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    i think this thread is a great idea. i visit mc less often becuase half the threads i see on page 1 say critique this or new suit fit that, blah blah blah.... [...]
    +1, way to many 'fit', 'shirt' and 'wedding' threads

    exactly

    Problem with this thread, and SF in general is people who are clueless feel a need to add worthless comments to an otherwise good thread. [...]
    -and hopefully they/we are called upon it/educated if we do. After all, this is a forum.

    -the kind of thing I would think belonged to the "get foofed" thread. Which I enjoy very much btw.

    Definitely authorities by my book (note my location). But letting the thread die? It is good practice too look at others, even having a go at it yourself, if noone else bothers.

    Also chances of finding your particular misfit would improve with a 'accumulated' fit thread. Personally I learned a lot more about shirt fitting from the official mytailor thread than by looking for the individual shirt critiques.

    ...so are people to intimidated to give matsui a go now?

    [​IMG]
     


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