*** Official F/W 2012/2013 Runway Thread ***

[the shah]

Everything has been a huge bore so far for me ...

-------------------------

Silent has gone to hell what is this garbage

Spoiler

Womens stuff here

Damir inspiration for upcoming show

I think that quest has a long way to go yet, he's stumbled upon some personal hell that's manifesting it's ugly head in these lookbook shots.

-------------------------

InAisce pilgrimage

More at layers

-------------------------

Not to depart wholly from Damir's lost nomad wandering alone in a dessert, we come to the next creative mind that is releasing a new unique take on a drapey that makes it as refreshing as the first 1000 times...
Orientalism InAisce FW1213 ::: Muslamics in the cold meet scribes of Hokkaido

More


-------------------------

still some hope left, Dries Boris Miyake Yohji Gustavolins van Asche Vibskov Ann Willhelm Mihara CDGH+ (maybe Raf Junya Serfati Kolor V&R) ... Rick Julius might as well not waste time putting up rehashed garbage that will be purchased at 80-100% retail price regardless and save our eyes and brains the energy it takes to suffer through the shows pics and subsequent drool festivals on various fora ....

 

[brad-t]



So, I agree with Uncontrol's point but today must be my contrarian day because at the same time I think dismissing the whole thing is a bit harsh and a bit sad, there's more to substance than just the garments themselves and I for one welcome the decorum and theatricality of runway shows, even when they suck. I won't say that they help shape a context or a narrative (a universe !) for the collections because that's often bs but I still think they add something. With few rare exceptions, lookbooks are fine for making your wishlist but I don't look at runway shows with shopping in my mind, it's a spectacle. I don't mind showrooms but where's the drama, where's the dream ? The bottom line is that fashion as a bunch of items of clothing bores the **** out of me if I can't link it to something more impressionistic. My predicament now is that, as I'm writing this post, I'm reminded of fantastic lookbooks and runways devoid of anything, I guess I don't have a point.
≈ In this post, Sipang talks out of his ass and doesn't know what he wants to say, feel free to skip. ≈

I think there are ways to make runway shows theatrical without damaging the integrity of the clothing (see: McQueen and Anna Sui, on totally opposite sides of the spectrum) and I'm not necessarily berating theatrics as much as I am berating "ironic" clothing. People are already hyping the ****** Jil Sander lunchbags and I mean, really? Is that how easy it is to capture the attention of fashion fans -- to create something quirky and ironic? This kind of irony has no substance -- it's a replacement for substance.

I'll be honest though: my interest in fashion is largely because I like cool ****, not really interested in cultural statements or storytelling. Largely fashion runway's attempts at "storytelling" are the narrative equivalent of beer ads. That said, I feel the InAisce lookbook is a pretty decent example of storytelling through a collection.

These are just my opinions though, I don't really have any claims to credibility

haha i never heard this word until i met a newfie and now i hear it everyday

Appropriately enough, I'm from Newfoundland haha

Fashion is an in-joke.

Do you really think this? I think a lot of high-end mainstream fashion is an in-joke, but not fashion as a whole. Balmain is a good example of a fashion in-joke ... although I don't think most consumers are in on the joke, actually.

That Damir Doma article is so ******* lame. Fashion writing is largely just sucking the dick of the industry and designers.

 

[the shah]

JIL FW1213

​

 

[A Fellow Linguist]



Do you really think this? I think a lot of high-end mainstream fashion is an in-joke, but not fashion as a whole. Balmain is a good example of a fashion in-joke ... although I don't think most consumers are in on the joke, actually.

You've said what I really meant, I'm referring to fashion as an institution (though I only have a general idea of what I mean by that). I don't doubt that there are good and genuine designers, though, like in the case of Raf, it's sometimes hard to tell. How do you feel about CdG, Vibskov, and designers like that who can be a little more kitschy?

 

[reedobandito]



Fashion is an in-joke.

I like this, I feel the sentiment encapsulates some of the more playful aesthetics that are especially on display at the runway shoes (TB anyone?)

Mostly though, these runway shows are publicity stunts intended to cause a rise, any rise

 

[sipang]



Everything has been a huge bore so far for me ...
-------------------------
Silent has gone to hell what is this garbage

You say that now but... I don't even remember Silent past lookbooks, that's how much the line succeeded in capturing my attention, but on a piece by piece basis this doesn't look bad, there's also a rain poncho, need I say more ?

Orientalism InAisce FW1213 ::: Muslamics in the cold meet scribes of Hokkaido

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

More
-------------------------

I finally figured out what to do with my hair.

still some hope left, Dries Boris Miyake Yohji Gustavolins van Asche Vibskov Ann Willhelm Mihara CDGH+ (maybe Raf Junya Serfati Kolor V&R) ... Rick Julius might as well not waste time putting up rehashed garbage that will be purchased at 80-100% retail price regardless and save our eyes and brains the energy it takes to suffer through the shows pics and subsequent drool festivals on various fora ....

I think I will just focus my kop beam on Dries, Ann and Stephan from now on* (feeling very patriotic atm).



*sprinkled with an appropriate amount of Japanese sweets of course

I think there are ways to make runway shows theatrical without damaging the integrity of the clothing (see: McQueen and Anna Sui, on totally opposite sides of the spectrum) and I'm not necessarily berating theatrics as much as I am berating "ironic" clothing. People are already hyping the ****** Jil Sander lunchbags and I mean, really? Is that how easy it is to capture the attention of fashion fans -- to create something quirky and ironic? This kind of irony has no substance -- it's a replacement for substance.

Oh I'm totally with you on that, it just seemed like you were using the Jil debacle to dismiss runway fashion as a whole which I found a bit unfair (although I'm not especially interested in runways to begin with so I have no idead where this is coming from)

I'll be honest though: my interest in fashion is largely because I like cool ****, not really interested in cultural statements or storytelling. Largely fashion runway's attempts at "storytelling" are the narrative equivalent of beer ads. That said, I feel the InAisce lookbook is a pretty decent example of storytelling through a collection.
These are just my opinions though, I don't really have any claims to credibility

Not necessarily cultural statements or storytelling, I'm ok with way more shallow than that. To be clear, I don't need the clothes to "mean something" or some other nonsense, I just like when the stuff doesn't exist in a total vacuum, when you can draw links or parallels with other arts, ... that kind of thing (I'm doing at terrible job at explaining this).

But, gotcha. I like cool **** too

 

[the shah]

Everything has been a huge bore so far for me ...
-------------------------
Silent has gone to hell what is this garbage

You say that now but... I don't even remember Silent past lookbooks, that's how much the line succeeded in capturing my attention, but on a piece by piece basis this doesn't look bad, there's also a rain poncho, need I say more ?

exactly the point, it has in the past complemented mainline, adding transition pieces and low-cost basics that could easily be worn with many DD outfits, summer-weight pants, longer/draped/twisted tees, simple beanies...It started progressing a bit beyond that with the introduction buttondons and then even outerwear but still mirrored the mainline aesthetic (some of the bomber/baseball jackets and long coats are pretty much copies) and then moved toward completing it as a full derivative. i don't know how much he's involved with it, but i would assume he has contributed little if anything.

the problem is, if it is still to be a natural continuation of dd, then there is no hope for dd this coming fall. the decision to combine smooth shapes with rigid tailoring in a single season (fw11) seemed odd, and he lost direction and unity in ss12 which was started as accessories and built off that. i hope he finds his inspiration elsewhere in the future.

 

[wogbog]

I like that Silent stuff a lot, especially this women's one:

Spoiler

 

[the shah]

only the outerwear looks nice in a minimalist sort of way but will be overpriced for a derivative line made of inferior fabric and constuction quality, the pants have an octopus on the waist, the boots are disgusting cross between last season's mainline sneakerboots and sherling sorrels, the tee is a tee, and the human is some generic androgynous life form that looks as devoid of inspiration as the whole line. but to each his own, i suppose

 

[brad-t]



You've said what I really meant, I'm referring to fashion as an institution (though I only have a general idea of what I mean by that). I don't doubt that there are good and genuine designers, though, like in the case of Raf, it's sometimes hard to tell. How do you feel about CdG, Vibskov, and designers like that who can be a little more kitschy?

I think I have to take it on a case by case basis. For something like CdG, I still feel like it's more about creating something cool and visually pleasing rather than the designer trying to show how witty, tongue-in-cheek or otherwise irreverent they are.

 

[sipang]



only the outerwear looks nice in a minimalist sort of way but will be overpriced for a derivative line made of inferior fabric and constuction quality, the pants have an octopus on the waist, the boots are disgusting cross between last season's mainline sneakerboots and sherling sorrels, the tee is a tee, and the human is some generic androgynous life form that looks as devoid of inspiration as the whole line. but to each his own, i suppose

Well that's what you get for robokopping Silent tees with a vengeance. Damir, being the savvy businessman that he is, realised where the money was and decided to take the cash cow to the nxt lvl

 

[the shah]

i own 1.

blame gilt/thecorner(40off40)/forwardforward for the mass hysteria. at least it meant i was able to sell off the rest

conclusion : the best inspirations are short-lived. the ones that last are visions being manifested, something not all artists can achieve.

Ann, you are a unique poet indeed.

 

[sipang]

With great power comes great responsibility, enabler-in-chief.



Seems like we need an * * * Official Ann D thread * * * 'round these parts

 

[andrewgreg]



With great power comes great responsibility, enabler-in-chief.
Seems like we need an * * * Official Ann D thread * * * 'round these parts

How about an official dark designer thread?

I know Ann D deserve its own thread, but IMHO due to the price factor of these dark designer brands, people here appreciate the design more than actually buy something?
It would be an ideal place to talk about all the dark designers.

There are already some "official" threads on the forum. Anyway, just my own opinion.

 

[sipang]

Dearest andrewgreg,

​