*** Official F/W 2012/2013 Runway Thread ***

[Platypus]

Alexandre Plokhov: Definitely my favorite from him since he started designing under his own name again. I like the overall feeling of simplicity (and more specifically, a lot of the lapels). Would like to see more of the detailing and especially the cuts of the garments (which I thought were slightly off when I handled the previous seasons). While it may have a lot to do with my own aesthetic, I prefer Plokhov this season to the other half of the Cloak duo.

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Robert Geller: While some of the pieces are just re-hashes I actually like this collection more than the last few seasons. I think this has more to do with the fact that I think the styling is better (though not great) than past collections (where the styling made me immediately lose interest). If you look at the individual pieces, there is a lot to like.

A few select pictures below with the rest available HERE and some backstage pictures HERE

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And on a more personal note; I haven't had time yet, but I have some photos and some interesting finds from Paris that I'll post here (hopefully) soon.

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[bows1]

Nice Pics Platypus, were you in the Photographer Pit? I was 2/3rds of the way down on the right side. Great show

 

[Platypus]

^ Those pics are from Style/GQ haha.

I'm not a photographer and I only went to Paris this season in any case (hopefully I'll make it to New york next time)...

 

[reedobandito]

RG does indeed look great, Plokhov is a little dark for my tastes

 

[sipang]

Siki Im





















​

 

[worakl]

Popcorn-print is

but the rest is great.

 

[pickpackpockpuck]



Robert Geller: While some of the pieces are just re-hashes I actually like this collection more than the last few seasons. I think this has more to do with the fact that I think the styling is better (though not great) than past collections (where the styling made me immediately lose interest). If you look at the individual pieces, there is a lot to like.

Funny you mention this because I generally like the styling a lot. I said in the Geller thread that I think it can be a bit too heavy on the layering when you have a coat over top of another coat, that sort of thing, but other than that I like it. Is there anything specific you dislike? Just wondering. Guessing you prefer clean, almost minimal looks. In any case, thanks for posting the pics.

Now get back to work and get your store up and running! We're all waiting over here.

 

[snowmanxl]

cmon shah, youve got to admit that those geller looks are great

 

[jwjp]

why does shah hate on geller so much?

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

"nope, rehashed copies of other designs year after year , same releases, garbage quality/price"

If a designer has a strong point of view there's bound to be a sense of consistency from one collection to the next. Not every Ann D. collection is a radical shift. As for quality and price, I think your problem is that the price isn't high enough.

 

[snowmanxl]

heres four that i think are styled really well, as platypus said.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

gradient blazer + neck-hoodie
styling that classic dip dye differently than before gets a +1
that grey with orange looks really nice
hairy pants and sweater + scarf

 

[sipang]

This has come up in the Ervell thread too (not that Ervell = Geller but anyway...) but I think people are misunderstanding the criticism that is made here. Nobody's advocating for constant reinvention, pretty much the opposite actually I'm sure, but there's a way of sailing the same waters years after years without giving the impression that your inspiration is spreading thin. Yohji has been putting out basically the same stuff for decades but no one's complaining, AnnD, Dries etc

This doesn't pertain to the Geller collection in particular btw, it's more in response to the fake (imho) dichotomy of consistency vs. innovation and the assumption that people criticizing a collection for being rehashed or dull want something more shocking or new, menswear is not fashion, fashion is frivolous and all that bs.

 

[Makeshift_Robot]

Geller falls apart on the sales floor for me. I don't know whether blame for that falls on him or the buyer, but the actual stuff that I see in Barney's is boring and incoherent. I like this season better than the last few - styling is better, as Platypus said, but also it seems like there are more worthwhile pieces on display.

I love Siki Im this season, I hope we won't just see all-black buys because he put together a really nice palette. Some of the details seem a bit off... it always seems one or two steps away from being a great cult menswear label. Like it has that tunnel into the lizard brain that Rick has, but he keeps adding weird gathers, weird collars, etc.

 

[pickpackpockpuck]



This has come up in the Ervell thread too (not that Ervell = Geller but anyway...) but I think people are misunderstanding the criticism that is made here. Nobody's advocating for constant reinvention, pretty much the opposite actually I'm sure, but there's a way of sailing the same waters years after years without giving the impression that your inspiration is spreading thin. Yohji has been putting out basically the same stuff for decades but no one's complaining, AnnD, Dries etc
This doesn't pertain to the Geller collection in particular btw, it's more in response to the fake (imho) dichotomy of consistency vs. innovation and the assumption that people criticizing a collection for being rehashed or dull want something more shocking or new, menswear is not fashion, fashion is frivolous and all that bs.

Good point. Though I am curious, if someone complains a designer rehashes old designs, doesn't that imply they want the designer to make something new? If not, what exactly do they want? It's kind of a vague criticism.

EDIT: just checked out your post in the Ervell thread. You made the good point that what makes Ervell's stuff "ervellian" is being diluted. I think that makes sense. I don't think that's what Shah is complaining about though. I think Shah would prefer if Geller's stuff were less "gellerian"!

Geller falls apart on the sales floor for me. I don't know whether blame for that falls on him or the buyer, but the actual stuff that I see in Barney's is boring and incoherent. I like this season better than the last few - styling is better, as Platypus said, but also it seems like there are more worthwhile pieces on display.

Hah, yeah, this is something that has been complained about in the Geller thread. Most buyers seem to prefer the sweatshirts and button-ups and jeans. But this is definitely one of my favorite seasons of his. I'm actually not a big fan of his early collections. I know a lot of people seem to like those better, but I think the last few seasons have been his best by far (though I would exclude Fall 2011 from that; that one I thought was a little weaker).

Just wondering, are people generally unhappy with Ervell? I liked this show better than spring, I guess, though he's never really been my favorite.

I was kinda neither here nor there with Siki Im.

 

[sipang]



Good point. Though I am curious, if someone complains a designer rehashes old designs, doesn't that imply they want the designer to make something new? If not, what exactly do they want? It's kind of a vague criticism.

Yes... Let's just go with dull


(More thought out reply underway)

Just wondering, are people generally unhappy with Ervell? I liked this show better than spring, I guess, though he's never really been my favorite.

See my rambling in the official thread for a questionably elightening answer.