Official Events and PSA thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2009.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know what his standard is, but based on the photo of him, he's clearly quite comfortable doing a very draped chest.

    The one Vox wears is not draped at all, nor is tiger02's. By reputation, Solito cuts rather like everyone else in Naples, Rubinacci is the outlier.

    But that is "iReputation" so who knows.

    I like what he personally wears, and what Marinella wears.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The one Vox wears is not draped at all, nor is tiger02's. By reputation, Solito cuts rather like everyone else in Naples, Rubinacci is the outlier.

    But that is "iReputation" so who knows.

    I like what he personally wears, and what Marinella wears.


    I was just pointing out that he appears to be able to go either way.
     


  3. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    The one Vox wears is not draped at all, nor is tiger02's. By reputation, Solito cuts rather like everyone else in Naples, Rubinacci is the outlier.

    But that is "iReputation" so who knows.

    I like what he personally wears, and what Marinella wears.

    The feeling I get, and now I need to i-duck as FNB and Yachtie will come swinging, is that in Naples, older, more elegant men tend to wear more drape, but that the younger, slicker types like a tighter suit. Rubinacci makes a rounder shoulder than most others, but the well dressed guys I have seen tend to wear pretty draped suits, for the most part. Here is a good example of what I would consider the "normal" cut for a more elegant dress in Naples, though he does it better than most: [​IMG] Certainly a little less draped than Rubinacci, and a less round shoulder, but still not clean. FWIW, there are basically two shoulders made there. Shirt sleeve vs. normal isn't the divider, as much as convessa vs. insellata. Rubinacci, Solito and Panico, along with a few others, make convessa to varying degrees. Many others make the other style.
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ Did Rubinacci give me more or less drape than usual? I'm nervous that they de-draped me on account of my youth.
     


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Again, if your point is that you will be happiest with the cut that he/they consider their house style or default style I might agree with you. But Solito has been at this a long time. I am sure he has the ability to produce any style that his clients request.

    You might as well go to Denny's and request they make fish the way Le Bernardin makes it because that is what you want, or go to one of the big three in Detroit and request the car perform and drive as a BMW, or go to the barber on the corner who has been cutting hair for a long time and request he cut your hair like the guy in NY would or ask a defense attorney to conduct a business transaction........

    Chefs take the same ingredients and get different results. They attract clientele that appreciate their style of cooking, the others frequent restaurants that agree with their tastes. What makes a tailor different from them? I make built up shoulders, soft shoulders, unpadded shoulders because it looks best and is appropriate for a body type but it is done the way I do it. It has my expression. I cannot make a suit the way another maker does, nor do I try. It's taken 37 for me to years to develop what I do the way I do it. I'll make you what you want but done the way I do it. If there is not a connect of my work and your expectations, so be it. I don't want to imitate another tailor or deviate from I do. Most tailors I know, have thoughts similar to what I am saying. Rant complete. (for now)
     


  6. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ Did Rubinacci give me more or less drape than usual? I'm nervous that they de-draped me on account of my youth.
    May I suggest: [​IMG] I don't think he did anything especially different for you. My jackets all have different amounts, depending on the fabric, and probably on what the tailor ate for dinner the night before.
     


  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    This chest has drape:

    [​IMG]

    I believe it is yours.


    - B
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    May I suggest:

    [​IMG]

    I don't think he did anything especially different for you. My jackets all have different amounts, depending on the fabric, and probably on what the tailor ate for dinner the night before.


    Do you squeeze and knead the shoulders of your jackets between your fingers to accelerate their softening and rounding?

    I'm ashamed of myself.
     


  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Most tailors I know, have thoughts similar to what I am saying. Rant complete. (for now)

    Wait...do I have this right? You can make me a Mr. Ned?


    - B
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wait...do I have this right? You can make me a Mr. Ned?


    - B


    Your mystery tailor exposed, I knew you would slip up.
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Your mystery tailor exposed, I knew you would slip up.

    How about this as a slogan?

    "Ready to wear made just for you!"

    Catchy, isn't it?


    - B
     


  12. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Do you squeeze and knead the shoulders of your jackets between your fingers to accelerate their softening and rounding?

    I'm ashamed of myself.

    No. I do what Mariano does. I have my wife pull down on the seams so that they conform to me more quickly.
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How about this as a slogan?

    "Ready to wear made just for you!"

    Catchy, isn't it?


    - B


    I like kitschy better than catchy
     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No. I do what Mariano does. I have my wife pull down on the seams so that they conform to me more quickly.

    Has she mastered the steam iron/vacuum table as well?
     


  15. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Has she mastered the steam iron/vacuum table as well?
    Shirts only. I, gasp, just stick my clothing in the bathroom if it needs a steaming.
     


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