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Official Events and PSA thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2009.

  1. TC11201

    TC11201 Senior member

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    i agree with all of that. certainly, this is a good $700-$1000 below oxxford mtm and world's apart, from what i understand, from many of nyc bespoke tailors. clearly value is always a very subjective concept, but given the going rate for high quality bespoke in nyc, london and a host of other spots, this certainly appears to be a potential bargain. as for any need to justify, i'd say you're in good company - i'll jump right behind you in that line since i'm thinking of undertaking the same experiment!
     
  2. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    The benefit of Solito/Ambrosi doing a suit is that it adds another option to New Yorkers who want to try sample another traveling Neopolitan tailor. With Ambrosi you get an added benefit of making up suit and odd trousers with an artisan who is competitively priced and considered at the top of the game

    The price issue shouldn't be an issue. Either you have the money or not. Once you have the money in the $3000 range...then you have numerous bespoke options....now add Solito/Ambrosi as another feather in your quiver
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think the prices are extremely attractive, particularly given the going rate for good bespoke in New York City and London. But more importantly, Ambrosi and Solito make a different kind of bespoke suit that you typically must travel to Naples for. So, you might not want a Neapolitan suit, but you're on the wrong track if you are merely assessing Ambrosi and Solito as a value proposition against other NYC-accessible tailors.

    You'll be happiest using their services if you want what they do than if you are just looking for a relative bargain on a nice suit.
     
  4. richardcharles

    richardcharles Well-Known Member

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    I think the prices are extremely attractive, particularly given the going rate for good bespoke in New York City and London. But more importantly, Ambrosi and Solito make a different kind of bespoke suit that you typically must travel to Naples for. So, you might not want a Neapolitan suit, but you're on the wrong track if you are merely assessing Ambrosi and Solito as a value proposition against other NYC-accessible tailors.

    Why is this not an advisable approach. It seems to me to be a prudent approach

    You'll be happiest using their services if you want what they do than if you are just looking for a relative bargain on a nice suit.


    Again, if your point is that you will be happiest with the cut that he/they consider their house style or default style I might agree with you. But Solito has been at this a long time. I am sure he has the ability to produce any style that his clients request.
     
  5. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Again, if your point is that you will be happiest with the cut that he/they consider their house style or default style I might agree with you. But Solito has been at this a long time. I am sure he has the ability to produce any style that his clients request.
    Eh. I think people are better off shying away from designing their own suit, unless they are very expert.
     
  6. TC11201

    TC11201 Senior member

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    Again, if your point is that you will be happiest with the cut that he/they consider their house style or default style I might agree with you. But Solito has been at this a long time. I am sure he has the ability to produce any style that his clients request.

    i suppose the question, then, is whether he will. others seem to have alluded to a certain reticence to deviate from his preferred style. perhaps there is someone who can clarify whether this is the case.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Eh. I think people are better off shying away from designing their own suit, unless they are very expert.

    You have just stripped my life of all meaning.
     
  8. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You have just stripped my life of all meaning.
    There was a qualifier their. It was meant for you.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There was a qualifier their. It was meant for you.

    I am an amateur. I don't draft my own patterns.
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I am an amateur. I don't draft my own patterns.

    You need a Sears catalog, but from 1938.


    - B
     
  11. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am an amateur. I don't draft my own patterns.

    You need a Sears catalog, but from 1938.


    - B


    Too nouveau, it has to be 1902.

    Anyway, Manton, start small. I suggest this as your first pattern drafting project.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Again, if your point is that you will be happiest with the cut that he/they consider their house style or default style I might agree with you. But Solito has been at this a long time. I am sure he has the ability to produce any style that his clients request.

    Because a tailor's particular methods, preferences, experience, and taste play significant roles in determining the style and design of what he makes for you. If you want lean and structured, I have no idea why you would even consider Solito when there are dozens of other reputable tailors more used to doing that sort of thing.
     
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    But Solito has been at this a long time. I am sure he has the ability to produce any style that his clients request.

    "Can," "will," "will do well," and "will do so happily and well" are quite different things with a bespoke tailor.

    I guess I am also a believer in refinement over time. One thing I would consider very seriously with a bespoke tailor is the likelihood of regular, dependable access as the years pass by. Proximity, age, and visiting history for visiting tailors are all important elements of this.

    - B
     
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought Solito was more in the traditional Naples vein, i.e., not so structured but quite lean. What he makes for M. Marinella (and possibly others) is not his default style, no?
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought Solito was more in the traditional Naples vein, i.e., not so structured but quite lean. What he makes for M. Marinella (and possibly others) is not his default style, no?

    I don't know what his standard is, but based on the photo of him, he's clearly quite comfortable doing a very draped chest.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know what his standard is, but based on the photo of him, he's clearly quite comfortable doing a very draped chest.

    The one Vox wears is not draped at all, nor is tiger02's. By reputation, Solito cuts rather like everyone else in Naples, Rubinacci is the outlier.

    But that is "iReputation" so who knows.

    I like what he personally wears, and what Marinella wears.
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The one Vox wears is not draped at all, nor is tiger02's. By reputation, Solito cuts rather like everyone else in Naples, Rubinacci is the outlier.

    But that is "iReputation" so who knows.

    I like what he personally wears, and what Marinella wears.


    I was just pointing out that he appears to be able to go either way.
     
  18. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The one Vox wears is not draped at all, nor is tiger02's. By reputation, Solito cuts rather like everyone else in Naples, Rubinacci is the outlier.

    But that is "iReputation" so who knows.

    I like what he personally wears, and what Marinella wears.

    The feeling I get, and now I need to i-duck as FNB and Yachtie will come swinging, is that in Naples, older, more elegant men tend to wear more drape, but that the younger, slicker types like a tighter suit. Rubinacci makes a rounder shoulder than most others, but the well dressed guys I have seen tend to wear pretty draped suits, for the most part. Here is a good example of what I would consider the "normal" cut for a more elegant dress in Naples, though he does it better than most: [​IMG] Certainly a little less draped than Rubinacci, and a less round shoulder, but still not clean. FWIW, there are basically two shoulders made there. Shirt sleeve vs. normal isn't the divider, as much as convessa vs. insellata. Rubinacci, Solito and Panico, along with a few others, make convessa to varying degrees. Many others make the other style.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ Did Rubinacci give me more or less drape than usual? I'm nervous that they de-draped me on account of my youth.
     
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Again, if your point is that you will be happiest with the cut that he/they consider their house style or default style I might agree with you. But Solito has been at this a long time. I am sure he has the ability to produce any style that his clients request.

    You might as well go to Denny's and request they make fish the way Le Bernardin makes it because that is what you want, or go to one of the big three in Detroit and request the car perform and drive as a BMW, or go to the barber on the corner who has been cutting hair for a long time and request he cut your hair like the guy in NY would or ask a defense attorney to conduct a business transaction........

    Chefs take the same ingredients and get different results. They attract clientele that appreciate their style of cooking, the others frequent restaurants that agree with their tastes. What makes a tailor different from them? I make built up shoulders, soft shoulders, unpadded shoulders because it looks best and is appropriate for a body type but it is done the way I do it. It has my expression. I cannot make a suit the way another maker does, nor do I try. It's taken 37 for me to years to develop what I do the way I do it. I'll make you what you want but done the way I do it. If there is not a connect of my work and your expectations, so be it. I don't want to imitate another tailor or deviate from I do. Most tailors I know, have thoughts similar to what I am saying. Rant complete. (for now)
     

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