1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Official Events and PSA thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2009.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  2. uppercase

    uppercase Senior Member

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    I'd love to have a suit made by Solito/Ambrosi, two of Naples' top names in bespoke clothing, but a few considerations would give me pause:
    ---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
    It is blousy and drapey and full. I'd call it sloppy drape.
    It is the same silhouette which I saw on Maurizio Marinella and on a Neapolitan friend of mine who is a Solito client. You've got to like that shape going into game because that is what you'll get, particularly since you are only going to get one forward fitting before the final coat is delivered. I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?
     


  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?

    No, it was not made for me...nevertheless, it was indeed made with a clean chest for the client (judging from photographs)...but it is likely that my chest is cleaning it up even further!

    For those of you thinking about this, there are few people with greater familiarity with Naples than Uppercase, so you would do well to pay attention to what he is describing.


    - B
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    For those of you thinking about this, there are few people with greater familiarity with Naples than Uppercase, so you would do well to pay attention to what he is describing.

    +1
     


  5. teddieriley

    teddieriley Distinguished Member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    No, it was not made for me...nevertheless, it was indeed made with a clean chest for the client (judging from photographs)...but it is likely that my chest is cleaning it up even further!

    For those of you thinking about this, there are few people with greater familiarity with Naples than Uppercase, so you would do well to pay attention to what he is describing.


    - B


    Seriously, or is this sarcasm? can't tell. something tells me the latter.
     


  6. uppercase

    uppercase Senior Member

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    --sorry, my above post went off incomplete; here's the full post:


    I'd love to have a suit made by Solito/Ambrosi, two of Naples' top names in bespoke clothing, but a few considerations would give me pause:
    ---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
    It is blousy and drapey and full. I'd call it sloppy drape.
    He is wearing the same silhouette which I saw on Maurizio Marinella and also on a Neapolitan friend of mine who is a Solito client. You've got to like that shape going into game because that is what you'll get, particularly since you are only going to get one forward fitting before the final coat is delivered. I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?
    I also wouldn't expect a product along the lines of what Rubinacci produced for iammatt and mafoofan. Those clothes were produced after numerous fittings and iterations done in Naples. Rubinacci's silhouette is different and their level of conscientiousness and precision is much higher; Solito's work and silhouette is more regional and does not have the polish of Rubinacci.
    ----Solito's reliability. Solito does not produce work on time. My friend eventually left Solito because his clothes were not remotely produced on time nor were appointments kept. And this is for an Italian client who need only drive around the corner to Solito's sartoria in Naples. Is it realistic to expect delivery of a forward fitting coat in March? Allowances need to be made.

    I've grown to enjoy Naples, its culture, people and traditions and would not want any artisan to get needlessly bashed. You just need to be aware of the potential pitfalls and avoid disappointments because of misplaced and unrealistic expectations, and adjust. It's best to go into this with eyes wide open, understanding what you'll likely be getting and the time frame, and to make some measured allowances beforehand.

    Personally, I would go ahead and commission a suit from Solito/Ambrosi if I were in NYC just for the chance to have something made by these two Neapolitan icons. But again, I am not expecting the sun, the moon and the star.
     


  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Seriously, or is this sarcasm? can't tell. something tells me the latter.

    Not at all sarcastic. UC is probably only among four English-speaking guys on the interwebs who can post with true familiarity about the various Neopolitan makers.


    - B
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I've grown to enjoy Naples, its culture, people and traditions and would not want any artisan to get needlessly bashed. You just need to be aware of the potential pitfalls and avoid disappointments because of misplaced and unrealistic expectations, and adjust. It’s best to go into this with eyes wide open, understanding what you’ll likely be getting and the time frame, and to make some measured allowances beforehand.

    Personally, I would go ahead and commission a suit from Solito/Ambrosi if I were in NYC just for the chance to have something made by these two Neapolitan icons. But again, I am not expecting the sun, the moon and the star.


    Wisdom.

    But keep in mind, this forum is used to dealing with Jantzen!

    Not at all sarcastic. UC is probably only among four English-speaking guys on the interwebs who can post with true familiarity about the various Neopolitan makers.

    And he knows Savile Row, to boot!
     


  9. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    deleted for misdirected snark
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    deleted for misdirected snark

    Redirecting it in the right direction would have been much more interesting than deletion.
     


  11. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Distinguished Member

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    Considering Solito is teamed up with Ambrosi, perhaps this is the appropriate time to ask

    Has anyone ever used Ambrosi to make their suit trousers?
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    ---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
    It is blousy and drapey and full.


    This is encouraging.

    This, not so much ...
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Considering Solito is teamed up with Ambrosi, perhaps this is the appropriate time to ask

    Has anyone ever used Ambrosi to make their suit trousers?


    Yes.
     


  14. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    The wild and the pure.
    ---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
    It is blousy and drapey and full. I'd call it sloppy drape.
    He is wearing the same silhouette which I saw on Maurizio Marinella and also on a Neapolitan friend of mine who is a Solito client. You've got to like that shape going into game because that is what you'll get, particularly since you are only going to get one forward fitting before the final coat is delivered. I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?


    I've seen ones just as fitted from Solito, often worn by Salvatore Ambrosi. Remember, this is the younger Solito coming, so his eye could be a bit different, and I am not sure what he does. My guess is narrower, but who knows.
    Truth. That said, a good client can make the difference. What you get from Rubinacci, in many ways, is a "good client" in Mariano who demands the best of the tailor.
    Very true. Ambrosi is quite good, though, so maybe he is the one to take this up with. He can prod them along.

    More good advice.

    Me too. Probably an overcoat rather than a suit, though. This only because I have the foo-disease of liking to have same things the same.
     


  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Truth. That said, a good client can make the difference. What you get from Rubinacci, in many ways, is a "good client" in Mariano who demands the best of the tailor.

    That is a succinct and useful observation.

    If you don't have a guy like that in the room, you had better be prepared to be that guy yourself. And let's face it: that is unlikely with most guys.


    - B
     


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