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Offical TRICKERS shoes and boots thread

vigorniensis

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Hello all - this is my first post, so I hope it's in the right place. Recently I bought a pair of Ilkleys and I'm debating whether to return them (or not) on the basis of something of a defect. Whilst the shoes are beautiful and well-made in just about every other respect, the broguing on the toes seems rather asymmetrical - the bottom of the 'love heart' pattern on the left shoe completely clears the welt, whereas on the right shoe the welt covers it by about a centimetre or so.

I bought these on sale for better than half price so I'm loathe to return them for something that is, essentially, purely aesthetic, but I'd be curious to know others' thoughts. Has anyone else had a similar problem of mismatched broguing?

ilkley1.jpg


ilkley2.jpg


ilkley3.jpg
 

zippyh

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Hello all - this is my first post, so I hope it's in the right place. Recently I bought a pair of Ilkleys and I'm debating whether to return them (or not) on the basis of something of a defect. Whilst the shoes are beautiful and well-made in just about every other respect, the broguing on the toes seems rather asymmetrical - the bottom of the 'love heart' pattern on the left shoe completely clears the welt, whereas on the right shoe the welt covers it by about a centimetre or so.

I bought these on sale for better than half price so I'm loathe to return them for something that is, essentially, purely aesthetic, but I'd be curious to know others' thoughts. Has anyone else had a similar problem of mismatched broguing?

View attachment 1744146

View attachment 1744147

View attachment 1744148
Not to say it’s right, but that is a super common flaw. Look closely at product pics online and you’ll see it.
 

princealbert

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Hello all - this is my first post, so I hope it's in the right place. Recently I bought a pair of Ilkleys and I'm debating whether to return them (or not) on the basis of something of a defect. Whilst the shoes are beautiful and well-made in just about every other respect, the broguing on the toes seems rather asymmetrical - the bottom of the 'love heart' pattern on the left shoe completely clears the welt, whereas on the right shoe the welt covers it by about a centimetre or so.

I bought these on sale for better than half price so I'm loathe to return them for something that is, essentially, purely aesthetic, but I'd be curious to know others' thoughts. Has anyone else had a similar problem of mismatched broguing?
As regulars on here will know this is an issue that bugs me. In my opinion the medallion on the toe should not be obscured by the welt. However it happens on a regular basis and it looks worse when there is a difference between the two shoes. Sometimes I will put up with it if I have got the shoes at a good price. But it’s a personal decision and I think you would be within your rights to return them.
 

zippyh

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Just a warning for anyone considering the petrol roughout Bourton. The tongue is paper thin unlined roughout. Meaning there's nothing really holding it together long term. No smooth side. No lining. Nothing. Already have a nice 1/2" tear on one of them. Still lovely shoes, but I will have to see what to do about this issue.

will anyone besides me notice it given my low volume and instep? No probably not. The quarters are fully closed, and the tongue doesn’t protrude much.

View attachment 1744123
That sounds like standard construction for bellows tongue. All my Bourtons with bellows tongue I just checked have a kind of triangular arrowhead shaped piece stitched on center but the sides where the tongue folds is thin unlined material since you don't want the foldy bellows bit to be too thick. Not quite sure how you could retrofit a lining.

The tear is rather unfortunate. I have a pair of the bronze unicorn austerity Eatons/Deans that came with a tear on the tongue just below where the tongue lining ends. Since they were under $300 from the outlet, I was okay with just doing a frankenstein stitch myself to fix it. It's totally hidden from view.
 

Erikdayo

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That sounds like standard construction for bellows tongue. All my Bourtons with bellows tongue I just checked have a kind of triangular arrowhead shaped piece stitched on center but the sides where the tongue folds is thin unlined material since you don't want the foldy bellows bit to be too thick. Not quite sure how you could retrofit a lining.

The tear is rather unfortunate. I have a pair of the bronze unicorn austerity Eatons/Deans that came with a tear on the tongue just below where the tongue lining ends. Since they were under $300 from the outlet, I was okay with just doing a frankenstein stitch myself to fix it. It's totally hidden from view.
That's interesting. Even the suede/roughout ones are the same? It just seems like it would be very weak and prone to tearing compared to a smooth leather tongue.

Regardless, DR offered an exchange. So I will take them up on that and see how the next pair is. First issue I've had with Tricker's. Not too bad for it being my 8th pair.
 

Sole Boy

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Yeah imagine the 'Yes Minster!' puns right there.....
You're thinking of "Yes Minister", "Minster" doesn't mean the same thing. It is a title given to churches and surrounding area, like York Minster or Westminster.
 

Crafty Cumbrian

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You're thinking of "Yes Minister", "Minster" doesn't mean the same thing. It is a title given to churches and surrounding area, like York Minster or Westminster.
I think you’re forgetting our Mr spud is Indian so an element of slack in the English comedy genre may be afforded?
 

zippyh

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That's interesting. Even the suede/roughout ones are the same? It just seems like it would be very weak and prone to tearing compared to a smooth leather tongue.

Regardless, DR offered an exchange. So I will take them up on that and see how the next pair is. First issue I've had with Tricker's. Not too bad for it being my 8th pair.
I checked some Stows with bellows tongues too. They're all the same way. The top couple inches of tongue is lined but lower down the bellowy part is an unlined layer. I checked suede, waxy suede, roughout, olivvia, kudu, cordovan and mc. The cordovan, waxy and mc are thicker but construction is the same.

I'm not sure what you would be doing to your tongues that would make them prone to tearing though. I don't think it's stressed much and the one pair I have with a tear came that way and probably happened during manufacturing. It's good that DR is exchanging. I can live with the tear at outlet prices but not for full retail.
 

Erikdayo

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I checked some Stows with bellows tongues too. They're all the same way. The top couple inches of tongue is lined but lower down the bellowy part is an unlined layer. I checked suede, waxy suede, roughout, olivvia, kudu, cordovan and mc. The cordovan, waxy and mc are thicker but construction is the same.

I'm not sure what you would be doing to your tongues that would make them prone to tearing though. I don't think it's stressed much and the one pair I have with a tear came that way and probably happened during manufacturing. It's good that DR is exchanging. I can live with the tear at outlet prices but not for full retail.
It probably came that way, and I didn't notice at first. I wasn't paying close attention as I was at work. Perhaps the tongue isn't as weak as I was assuming even with the thin roughout. Didn't do anything unusual. Put shoe on with the laces loose and using a shoe horn. The next pair will likely be fine.
 

RogerKaputnik

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It probably came that way, and I didn't notice at first. I wasn't paying close attention as I was at work. Perhaps the tongue isn't as weak as I was assuming even with the thin roughout. Didn't do anything unusual. Put shoe on with the laces loose and using a shoe horn. The next pair will likely be fine.
I really dig those blue ones - are those the petrol chamois from DR?

Just due to the shape of my feet, my 7.5 Bourtons fit me much roomier than the 2298 (then Dean Unicorns too!) in an 8. I need to size up more in the 2298 next time.
 

Angel91

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Hello, guys! Just as a follow up for the advice I asked some weeks ago about a very used bourton. This is how they look after cleaning. I’ll try to get some photos in the wild.
 

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vigorniensis

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Not to say it’s right, but that is a super common flaw. Look closely at product pics online and you’ll see it.
As regulars on here will know this is an issue that bugs me. In my opinion the medallion on the toe should not be obscured by the welt. However it happens on a regular basis and it looks worse when there is a difference between the two shoes. Sometimes I will put up with it if I have got the shoes at a good price. But it’s a personal decision and I think you would be within your rights to return them.
Yes, it does seem to be something of a common problem, doesn't it? Although, I'm sure I could live with the medallion being eaten by the welt somewhat as long as it was even on both shoes - its the asymmetry that's bothering me. I suppose it's a question of whether one can learn to live with it or if it will just be a continuing irritation, which is hard to judge.
 

Drzdave58

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How do u guys feel about the Lightweight Stow boots with the thinner soles? Some good deals on them but not sure if I would like them..thx
 

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