I have been admiring Spier and Mackay suits and sport coats for a while. When I follow their measurement advice for the shoulders I come out with quite a small number for the shoulders 15 inches. I measure from one shoulder bone up around the curve of the back to the other side. When I look at the suit measurements the smallest shoulder length is 17.5 for a size 36 suit. I have a size 40 chest. Do I just have abnormally small shoulders? Do I need to order custom? should I order a size 40 and have the shoulders altered? Or am I missing something between the jacket measurement and my shoulder measurement? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.