Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AlanC, Jan 6, 2004.
The New York Times has an article on luxury watches:
I doubt I'll be buying any of them soon.
This is ridiculous. I wouldn't even buy a suit for $1000, let alone a watch.
A while ago, I was bitten by the horological bug and was looking at some very exotic, rare, and *pricey* watches (Patek etc), but my enthusiasm faded quickly when one watch maven reduced such watches to "gadgets" Got me thinking that all of those tiny gears and wheels basically amount to gadgets--very cleverly engineered gadgets, but gadgets none the less.
Totally irrelevant; but the Patek "you are simply taking care for the next generation" ad always give me a squeeze in my heart.
I always thought that a watch has to 1) fit the occasion, 2) elegantly blend into your outfit (and of course tells time accurately). I am not against stones in watch dials, but if 1) it's on a sport watch or 2) worn with proper dress attire, it will look ridiculous. Of course, if you are at the same time flashing $100k worth of necklaces, bracelets, ear-rings, then it only makes sense that your watch has to compete with them.
I really hate how some of men's watches are huge enough to serve as beer coasters. You could probably take off the wristband and play hockey with them. The sheer mass of bling would be enough to affect the red-shift of surrounding pieces of jewelry.
Larger is better has been the design cue for watches, such as Panerai and especially Audemars Piguet which is making some monstrously large watches that simply cannot be worn comfortably under a normal dress shirt.
That Patek marketing campaign is clever in positioning Patek as a rare, coveted timepiece that is handed down from generation to generation. But, it's hype to a certain extent as Patek has increased the output of several of their watches pretty consistently over the years, so it's not nearly as rare a watch as it once was. I, myself, wear a $10 digital watch, which keeps time more accurately than a $100,000 watch.
Some of the new Pateks with ridiculous numbers of complications seem antithetical to that for which Patek once stood (i.e. elegant, understated simplicity). I don't understand this trendy fascination with huge and/or over-complicated (pun intended) watches. Give me a Patek Calatrava any day.
I like the Calatravas quite a bit. Simple, elegant, and understated. However, given their 'simplicity', I do not see how someone can spend $16,000 on a watch like that. I'm not a huge fan of watches with many complications, but I think that the moon phase chart adds a unique characteristic to the watch; more so than say a chronograph. However, I can't imagine spending $160,000 on their flagship model.
True this. Being a big guy with big hands, I like large watches - they don't look huge on me. But when I bought one: (an Eberhard Traversetolo) I found that it didn't fit underneath most of my shirt cuffs. So I promptly sold it. I still like large watches for casual wear, but for dress I think I'm going to go with a Nomos: About Nomos For you shoe-fans, they come with a shell-cordovan strap
I am a big fan of quite a few watches in the $1-6k price range, but I actually dislike most that I see above that.
The most amusing part of this article is the fact that most of the "luxury" brands mentioned are in reality third-tier brands with excellent marketing departments. Â One only wishes that Rolex, Omega, TAG Heuer, et al. would spend the money they currently allocate to celebrity spokespersons toward making a better watch.
I'm FINALLY getting a reverso classique; just wanted to throw my 2 cents in. word to the wise, watchclick.com is piss poor on customer service (prices look good, tho...). Promised me three times to call back about my order (placed on 30 dec but never processed/ charged to my credit card.. despite the overnight fedex shipping i ordered...grr.). Trying to order this one, instead: http://store.yahoo.com/watchtimeinc/mijacoreclwa.html
Hem, who exactly are the first tier makers?
Actually, watches with complications are often the most highly sought, and respected, for their rarity and craftsmanship. Calatravas are regarded by many as a dime a dozen. I decided against a Calatrava, much as I admire its simplicity, when I learned that owners of Calatravas, as well as other more modestly priced Pateks, are given short shrift by the company. Seems that owners of Pateks with $100,000+ price points start receiving respect from Patek. No thanks.
As with anything else,selecting a wristwatch is a matter of personal preference. If you're content with a $10 Casio,cool. It won't win many horological competitions in Basel,but it'll keep accurate time for years. Some like clean,simple designs,such as the Calatrava,or the Nomos model Andrew pictured. Others like big,chunky sport watches,like those by Panarai. Still others like watches with so many complications,it's actually difficult to tell what time it is.
Top watchmakers include: A Lange and Sohne Audemars Piguet Breguet Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Jaeger-LeCoultre Patek Philippe For anyone interested,International Wristwatch,WatchTime,and Chronos are three magazines with great articles (and lots of photos .),easily located at your local bookseller.
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