NYT article about Winston Tailors (Chipp) of NYC

[lithium180]

Here's a fun article from today's paper about Winston Tailors of NYC (aka Chipp):


A City Tailor Who Revels in the Boldest Sportswear

 

[voxsartoria]

Interesting, particularly the claims to originating patch madras for jackets, and embroidered corduroys.

I always thought, though, that Chipp started in Cambridge rather than NYC...the article implies a New York origination.

- B

 

[Connemara]

Neat article. One guy on the AAAT forum uses Chipp for his suits and odd jackets and it looks like they do phenomenal work. Amazing lapels and shoulders.

 

[robin]

What may prove to be Chipp's lasting contributions to preppy civilization were the elder Mr. Winston's inventions of patch madras cloth, four-panel trousers, and embroidered corduroys.

We have him to thank for the fun pants?

 

[von Rothbart]

Most of Mr. Winston's customers tend to be older gentlemen, he said. "There are very conservative young businessmen today who deny themselves the fun," he said. "Who ever heard of a black suit? Navy blue or charcoal gray, I understand, but black? Did you know it's the most popular color for a suit now?"

It's a losing battle for Manton.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by Connemara

Neat article. One guy on the AAAT forum uses Chipp for his suits and odd jackets and it looks like they do phenomenal work. Amazing lapels and shoulders.

Would you have a link to pics?

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Would you have a link to pics?

Search AAAC for posts by Tom Rath. There are also pics of some shirts made by Winston.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by dopey

Search AAAC for posts by Tom Rath. There are also pics of some shirts made by Winston.

Thanks

 

[imageWIS]

Originally Posted by von Rothbart

It's a losing battle for Manton.

He's lost so many, I think by now he's just learned to roll with punches.

Jon.

 

[Connemara]

Originally Posted by dopey

Search AAAC for posts by Tom Rath. There are also pics of some shirts made by Winston.
Tom Rath? I don't think that's him.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Connemara

Tom Rath? I don't think that's him.

I think it is. His username used to be "phil"

 

[dopey]

I stopped in Winston Tailors and got a look at the tussah silk mentioned in the NYT article above. The colors are mostly vibrant and jewel-like, with maybe one or two neutrals. The weave is very rough and slubby, making for a very casual sportcoat. Too casual, in my mind, for office casual, but suitable for weekends and vacation. Weave is not as loose as open as a real fresco, but open enough to allow a little air in.

 

[paulwinston]

To Voxsartoria The first Chipp started in New Haven. It was a partnership between Jonas Arnold and the Sills Brothers. They had a parting and Jonas moved Chipp to Cambridge. The Sills then called their operation Sills. When my father and his partner started Chipp of NY in 1945 they were financed by Jonas Arnold. He suggested they use the name Chipp to take advantage of the Yale and Harvard men who traded with Chipp in New Haven and Cambridge. Our family business- Chipp of NY - was a separate entity from the Chipp shops in New Haven and Cambridge. I have stated a blog that relates some things that may be of interest to you. www.chipp2.com/blog/

 

[WestIndianArchie]

Originally Posted by paulwinston

To Voxsartoria
The first Chipp started in New Haven. It was a partnership between Jonas Arnold and the Sills Brothers. They had a parting and Jonas moved Chipp to Cambridge. The Sills then called their operation Sills. When my father and his partner started Chipp of NY in 1945 they were financed by Jonas Arnold. He suggested they use the name Chipp to take advantage of the Yale and Harvard men who traded with Chipp in New Haven and Cambridge. Our family business- Chipp of NY - was a separate entity from the Chipp shops in New Haven and Cambridge. I have stated a blog that relates some things that may be of interest to you. www.chipp2.com/blog/

You need a lot more photos, a whole lot.

My Suggestions

- raw goods - The article about not all super 100's being the same, you should take photos of a lesser super 100 and a better super 100. I only have a vague notion of what you're talking about. And as a suit buyer, you need to give me tools to make better decisions.

- unfinished garments - I want to see the canvas. I want to see the unlined jacket. I want to see the bolt of Bemberg you use for the lining. I want to see the jacket w/o the sleeves. And if you can do some cross section shots, that'd be good too.

- the finished garments on mannequins - especially with shirts, ties, pocket squares, and lapel pins that you find visually appealing.

- the finished garments with real customers in them. And not the same 6" 180 lb guy. Short guys, tall guys, fat guys, guys with beer guts, young guys, old guys, Jews, Gentiles, Latinos, Asians, Democrats, Republicans, doctors, lawyers, bankers, Construction managers...et cetera.

- before and after pics of customers (headless if you must)

- "what we're working on right now" (in fact, if you really want to sell it, i'd take photos of every finished garment.)

- interesting pieces we've made for our customers - "Well this one guy wanted a morning coat, I had to go back to the old files to find a good pattern..."

- a really good glossary

- your philosophy on tailoring

- maybe some personality? Take a stand on sartorial major issues, "like is a black suit appropriate for a daytime job?" Single Breasted Peak Lapels - it's not just for vampires anymore? Brown shoes are not for Town? Outdated, or should we update with the times?

- the principals and people at your shop, hard at work

- the photos of old

I wish I could point you to a great tailor blog, but most of them are written like personal journals or very dry commercials. The clothing hobbyists post so infrequently that having them on feed is kinda pointless.

You need to take the approach of a hobbyist, not a tradesman.

This is blog makes great use of photos.

http://thepioneerwoman.com/cooking/2...ple_dumplings/

It's literally step by step.

The author of the blog is not a professional photographer. She just really cares about showing you what she's doing. (if you read the blog, it was trial and error to figure out how to make her photos come out better) The blog's photos are so good, and the words are so clear, that as a result novice cooks will attempt everything that she does. At the very least you can appreciate what she's doing.

A great blog will attract business.

We've been told that a great bespoke suit takes 40-60 hours to complete.

Show us.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by paulwinston

To Voxsartoria
The first Chipp started in New Haven. It was a partnership between Jonas Arnold and the Sills Brothers. They had a parting and Jonas moved Chipp to Cambridge. The Sills then called their operation Sills. When my father and his partner started Chipp of NY in 1945 they were financed by Jonas Arnold. He suggested they use the name Chipp to take advantage of the Yale and Harvard men who traded with Chipp in New Haven and Cambridge. Our family business- Chipp of NY - was a separate entity from the Chipp shops in New Haven and Cambridge. I have stated a blog that relates some things that may be of interest to you. www.chipp2.com/blog/

Dear Mr. Winston, thank you for your informative and definitive reply.

Here I am recently wearing vintage Chipp:

- B