NY's Lower East Side -- the new Savile Row?

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by greekonomist

Freemans gets points for using Greenfield and pushing vintage fabrics--assuming they are quality fabrics. However, $3,000 MTM is not worth it, especially for a trendy shop that might push a particular look over proper fit and proportion..

You didn't get what the article was talking about and why a younger clientele might be interested, did you? The whole point of this thing is to reach a younger clientele looking for a hip-er product. If they wanted to look like Oxxford clients they'd go to Oxxford. We can wax poetics about what it means and how important styling is to you when factoring the price but you can't approach the LES tailor thing without aknowledging what it might mean and what these customers are looking for.

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

You didn't get what the article was talking about and why a younger clientele might be interested, did you? The whole point of this thing is to reach a younger clientele looking for a hip-er product. If they wanted to look like Oxxford clients they'd go to Oxxford. We can wax poetics about what it means and how important styling is to you when factoring the price but you can't approach the LES tailor thing without aknowledging what it might mean and what these customers are looking for.

I got the article, and the focus on hipness. In fact, I'm only 23 myself, and I read it because I was curious and intrigued by the trend. But there's no such thing as a free lunch. Bespoke for under $1000 is not going to be very good. As for Freemans, since I've read of people being dissatisfied with Greenfield MTM from Brooks Brothers, which is cheaper than Freemans, I inferred that Freemans would not be worthwhile either. I think my opinions still stand up to scrutiny. But if customers are satisfied with what they get from these shops, then that's great. There are many satisfied Oxxford customers, but I would still never give them my business.

 

[mack11211]

Originally Posted by greekonomist

As for Freemans, since I've read of people being dissatisfied with Greenfield MTM from Brooks Brothers, which is cheaper than Freemans, I inferred that Freemans would not be worthwhile either. I think my opinions still stand up to scrutiny.

Nearly, but not quite.

Greenfield is a tailoring plant, a machine with many human parts. I not seen a badly made Greenfield suit, nor have I heard of one. But if someone gives them bad measurements, they will make an ill-fitting suit. Garbage in, garbage out. It all depends on the skill of the fitter.

 

[dopey]

Fuuma is right. People want different things. I don't fault these shops for selling what they are selling. I just don't want it.

If I have any complaint, it is only with shops that wrap themselves in the pretense of being tailors when they are just factory MTM programs. If they want to sell only style, I wish they would just say so.

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by mack11211

Nearly, but not quite. Greenfield is a tailoring plant, a machine with many human parts. I not seen a badly made Greenfield suit, nor have I heard of one. But if someone gives them bad measurements, they will make an ill-fitting suit. Garbage in, garbage out. It all depends on the skill of the fitter.
I agree. Everything I've seen from Greenfield is very well-made. They produce a consistently high-quality product. My issue, however, is not with the quality of manufacture, but with the general value of MTM. Perhaps, I should have been more explicit earlier. I've read of many people with experience with RTW, MTM, and Bespoke who claim that most MTM is not really worth the money. Bespoke if you can afford it. If not RTW with a great tailor. Others may disagree, but I defer to experience.

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by dopey

Fuuma is right. People want different things. I don't fault these shops for selling what they are selling. I just don't want it.

If I have any complaint, it is only with shops that wrap themselves in the pretense of being tailors when they are just factory MTM programs. If they want to sell only style, I wish they would just say so.

Good point. There are "custom" tailors in every city that rely on exploiting this kind of asymmetrical information.

 

[bcate3]

Thanks, mack, good read (and blog). The Asian fronts spotlighed in the article would seem to be risky. You're measured by a salesman with relatively limited experience & you have to hope the inherent language difference with the Asian factory isn't an obstacle.

SEW and even Freeman's sound more promising. You have the option of additional fittings & work from respectable factories. SEW even suggests that you can get an individual pattern.

I'm not sure, however, if I would choose one of these places over Logsdail, for example, who apparently has a MTM option that is not far off in price point and from accounts can work with you on the silhouette. Or, Mr. Neds, provided it can approximate the style you want.

 

[gdl203]

The best looking Greenfield-made suits/coats I've seen so far are the Bizzochi ones. The shoulder is surprisingly Napolitan for MG - extremely soft. Now the fabrics and details used by Bizzocchi (those tabbed surgeon cuffs..ugh) are a different story

 

[Shirtmaven]

One Saturday after closing up my shop I wandered downtown to check out all the new custom tailors.

Lord Willys is complete garbage.

D Quinn is seriously overpriced.

Did not make it into Freeman's

Andrews bespoke scares. me. a lawyer selling china/HK packages. I would have no confidence

SEW is the only place that was for real. I knew scott's uncle. The uncle used to run around to the shops in NYC and pick up the finished garments.
There is experience and knowledge.

Carl

 

[juuceman]

Ramon, a tailor on the LES on Orchard, or nearby, will do MTM CMT for $300.. unsure of the house style, he's done a decent amount of basic tailoring for me at dirt cheap prices over the last six or eight months..

all work done in house, one week turnaround..

 

[gdl203]

Ramon's alteration work sucks so bad that I wouldn't give him a shirt button to re-attach. (I assume you're talking about Ramon, just above Houston on Mott or Elizabeth?)

 

[lefty]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Ramon's alteration work sucks so bad that I wouldn't give him a shirt button to re-attach. (I assume you're talking about Ramon, just above Houston on Mott or Elizabeth?)

I double plus that.

Expensive and mediocre alteration work.

lefty

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by juuceman

Ramon, a tailor on the LES on Orchard, or nearby, will do MTM CMT for $300.. unsure of the house style, he's done a decent amount of basic tailoring for me at dirt cheap prices over the last six or eight months.. all work done in house, one week turnaround..
Ha! I stopped in on Sunday and got the same $300 CMT quote. The samples in the window were atrocious. Our communication was terrible, but he said full canvas. This is on Orchard, so not the same place as gdl203 is referring to. BTW, I found another tailor on the LES, on Essex, who is about $450 CMT. I started with trousers and has a pretty hard time getting them to look the way I wanted. Fortunately, they were shredded in an accident. I might roll the dice with Ramon, but Mr. Ned is a way safer bet if you are looking for cut rate tailoring. They know what they are doing and do good work. The price is somewhere around double. The work is nowhere near real bespoke, but perfectly fine for normal people.

 

[imageWIS]

Originally Posted by edmorel

Where?

You beat me to it! (no pun intended)

Jon.

 

[chorse123]

Originally Posted by dopey

I might roll the deice with Ramon, but Mr. Ned is a way safer bet if you are looking for cut rate tailoring. They know what they are doing and do good work. The price is somewhere around double. The work is nowhere near real bespoke, but perfectly fine for normal people.

Yes, and better to spend $900 wisely than throw $450 out the window on something awful.