NY Times: Why Designer Clothes Cost So Much

[Mauro]

^^ I am. I need to book another class. I will keep you in the loop. You brought up a valid reason why the internet is good.

 

[Jokerman]

Originally Posted by tagutcow

Well I don't know from fast fashion. We don't have an H&M or Zara anywhere around here. But the internet has opened up "fashion" for people like me who live in Bumfuck, Nowhere who would otherwise have no options other than Macy's, American Eagle, Express, and possibly J. Crew if we're lucky.

Hey Mauro, are you coming to Greensboro to go to Cone Mills University? Hit me up... I'll show you around.

H&M in Raleigh.

 

[Bona Drag]

Originally Posted by Mauro

**** YOU, you ignorant self absorbed brat.

i'm trying to figure out if this is directed at me before going any further

 

[Mauro]

Nope, Just people in general who fall into that discription. If it was directed towards you I would have said so.


Best,
mauro

 

[Bona Drag]

nuff respect then... have a couple level-headed points on this subject to make that ill add as soon as i get the chance

already late 4 dinner cuz u kno if theres ebeef in da streetz a n!&&@ cant sleep

 

[chopp]

simple economies of scales people...

 

[Lostinthesupermarket]

Thanks for the reply Mauro.

This has actually ended up being a good, informative thread IMO. As a consumer it's good to hear what the view is like from those who are actually in the trenches.

You should try hooking up with the Harris Tweed Hebrides people. They are flexible, and very into working with new designers.

Just as a hypothetical, do you think that a different pricing model, where garments had lower RRPs, would lead to less discounting and ultimately higher overall profits for retailers and manufacturers?

 

[impolyt_one]

Originally Posted by Lostinthesupermarket

Thanks for the reply Mauro.

This has actually ended up being a good, informative thread IMO. As a consumer it's good to hear what the view is like from those who are actually in the trenches.

You should try hooking up with the Harris Tweed Hebrides people. They are flexible, and very into working with new designers.

Just as a hypothetical, do you think that a different pricing model, where garments had lower RRPs, would lead to less discounting and ultimately higher overall profits for retailers and manufacturers?

I like the sound of Harris tweed, I am gonna look into that myself, thank you for the tip. The W.L. Gore office is a block from my house, can anyone say Harris Tweed/Windstopper slim Chesterfield?

I don't think pricing lower than the traditional 2.5X (and let's be honest, it's more like 3.2X in the real world nowadays - think about that when you buy a pair of Common Projects!) would work, or everyone would lose their ass, very quickly. You get tons of people returning/exchanging clothes that they have rendered unsellable and that eats up the profit on those pieces, tons of people wanting the hookup or a discount when no discounts can be made, and there are all the various costs, like chrono has said. I see where Self Edge and Context and those places are good at what they're doing and I understand why Mauro closed his shop, but I wonder why the smaller shops, like Hejfina, and those smaller city stores that only stock APC denim, some Nudies, J. Lindeberg, CnC, the strange mixes - I don't even know why they go into business, because they seem doomed from the start, and that is pretty sad because they all have great intentions and an honest business idea - sell nice clothes, make people happy.

The clothing business, from many different angles and points of view, it's a lot like running a restaurant. It's a lot slower and the money is in a different league, but the work put in, everything, it's like food. I was kicking around the idea of starting a ramen place - soup made from what are essentially free/very cheap pork bones, flour noodles, a couple slivers of char siu and half an egg - a bowl would cost me like what, 25-35 cents to make. all-in? I'd worry that I'd not make money if I priced a bowl at less than $10, though. haha. It's a tough world out there.

 

[Kvc06]

^ Hejfina isn't a good example of that.
They carried APC apparel, robert geller, EG, tim hamilton, BoO, Adam Kimmel

just sayin but I know what you meant.

 

[impolyt_one]

Yeah I know. Hejfina was stronger and not in that group. I was just never impressed by their buys really. Big ups to them for having supported some of those smaller brands though.

 

[Blackhood]

As far as I'm aware the biggest cost is property. Making a building pay for its self is even harder than making a product pay for its self. You can make something cheaply, but that shop front is still gonna cost you hundreds of pounds per day.

 

[KitAkira]

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

I like the sound of Harris tweed, I am gonna look into that myself, thank you for the tip. The W.L. Gore office is a block from my house, can anyone say Harris Tweed/Windstopper slim Chesterfield?

I don't think pricing lower than the traditional 2.5X (and let's be honest, it's more like 3.2X in the real world nowadays - think about that when you buy a pair of Common Projects!) would work, or everyone would lose their ass, very quickly. You get tons of people returning/exchanging clothes that they have rendered unsellable and that eats up the profit on those pieces, tons of people wanting the hookup or a discount when no discounts can be made, and there are all the various costs, like chrono has said. I see where Self Edge and Context and those places are good at what they're doing and I understand why Mauro closed his shop, but I wonder why the smaller shops, like Hejfina, and those smaller city stores that only stock APC denim, some Nudies, J. Lindeberg, CnC, the strange mixes - I don't even know why they go into business, because they seem doomed from the start, and that is pretty sad because they all have great intentions and an honest business idea - sell nice clothes, make people happy. The clothing business, from many different angles and points of view, it's a lot like running a restaurant. It's a lot slower and the money is in a different league, but the work put in, everything, it's like food. I was kicking around the idea of starting a ramen place - soup made from what are essentially free/very cheap pork bones, flour noodles, a couple slivers of char siu and half an egg - a bowl would cost me like what, 25-35 cents to make. all-in? I'd worry that I'd not make money if I priced a bowl at less than $10, though. haha. It's a tough world out there.
I thought it was tacos lol (PS: When I first read this thought you said saimin and that made me very happy, then I reread it and found ramen, which killed that). And yeah, my uncle has a small okazuya and he basically has no free time

Originally Posted by Blackhood

As far as I'm aware the biggest cost is property. Making a building pay for its self is even harder than making a product pay for its self. You can make something cheaply, but that shop front is still gonna cost you hundreds of pounds per day.
Solution - Korean taco/jawnz van

 

[impolyt_one]

yeah I know, the food business must be really tiring, especially if you're gonna stay open 7 days a week. My girlfriend wants to do ramen and gyoza. I'm not sure where, but it'd be in the US of A.

 

[Mauro]

^^ momofuku has changed the way people look at ramen in NYC. A good noodle bar is always good to have around.


One of the REAL reasons I closed my shop was because I felt guilty selling clothes ( which I love) for the retail price. If you can't sell retail don't get into retail. I hooked almost everyone up and in the end the margins wheren't there.
My rent was $7,000.00 . We haven't even started talking taxes and payroll. With debt service and all that I had to make 40k a month to cover my nut. Discounting clothes did not help that.
As the rescession grew deeper and my good customers stopped coming in regularly and or started asking for deeper discounts I was like " **** this". I am spending less time at the store and more time on private label where I can give a discount and feel good about selling goods I am proud of ( wheatet people like it or not) and I can give people a SF discount and not feel bad.
I have a daughter and a **** LOAD of bills. Wolf Vs Goat is the thing I hope that will cover my nut and take care of my family.

Price for clothing is all relative. It's what the customer is willing to pay. Everyone has to make their margins one way or the other or the whole system shuts down.
I think because of the recessiona nd the internet people have become bargin shoppers. For the consumer thats good for the businesses that's bad. Unless companies pad their margins so you the consumer feels good because you are buying something " on sale".

I will contact the Harris Tweeds or the 8 mills that make them ( i believe) and cut the jobber out. Doing that lowers my prices

and yours too!

Self Edge- has an awesome business stratedgy. Kiya is a shrewd business man and I think it's paying off.
Context- has actually been around long enough and has the passion and steam to go far. They too are good business men with excellent relationships with their vendors. I think I have I sam or ryan forget which by 14+ years in age...lol

Epaulet- right now is the SF Golden Child. Mike is no dummy either. If he plays his cards right ( which he will) he will grow his private label and his store quickly. He needs to steer clear of any CvF situations and not tell people to "**** OFF and die of CANCER" like I do.

I don't really talk with any other of the affiliates but you should support them ..at retail if possible.

Best,
Mauro

 

[aj_del]

^^ Just curious, what are you using Harris Tweed for ?