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NY Times: Why Designer Clothes Cost So Much

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by RFX45, Apr 30, 2010.

  1. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    back on topic, I love reading Mauro's posts on how he makes his clothes, his fundamental method is very different than mine. We make very different stuff generally, but the genres sometimes mix, and his way is just a lot different. I think he'd be blown away if he came out here and saw how I work, I am like the least professional dude on earth and yet I get a product out somehow. I am walking around with an overstuffed Moleskine tucked in my armpit, eating a McChicken and holding the bag of fries and my Coke with the bottom two fingers, and grabbing fabric blindly with my free hand as I walk past hundreds of fabric stalls with fingers crossed, hoping I come across some dope fabric, and dizzhizz walks with me and runs through the Excel order file on his iPhone all day. It's amazing out here and Mauro has probably never seen anything like it in his life. He has a guy who comes and brings him quality fabric swatch books, they have a beer or a coffee together - I'm over here literally high jumping over trash in the hallways and weeding through millions of rolls of fabric, trying to find the golden child shit. There's decrepit old guys with wooden backpack things who carry like 5 rolls of 100 yards of fabric on their backs, and you have to dodge those guys in the hallways out of respect. I go to the fabric markets literally everyday - I could go a lot less if I organized better and people were more patient, but it's also kind of fun, it's a challenge and it's for the schlock. I step in the building and people are bowing to me and shit, I get nods from all these fabric and zipper guys. I got this one guy who supplies all the YKK's to me, who occasionally gets in odd runs of Riris and Ideals - he runs around the market around 3 or 4pm and finds us on the floor and tells us what new stuff he's got in and we go over and look at it. I don't think anybody has any clue what we do but we're definitely a little standout over here. I've got some fabric stores that we call the 'assholes' and don't buy from because the textiles market is generally horded by thousands of Korean hipster girls everyday, who work as textile buyers for fashion companies. These guys at stores all think they're cool because they deal with hipster girls all day so when me and dizzhizz show up to buy 10 yards of shirting they start acting like complete dicks to us. I'm pretty sure Mauro doesn't have to deal with short penis dudes who don't want to sell him shirting because of hipster bitches. [​IMG]
     
  2. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    would u kop the row?
    If construction/fit/look is on point, why not?
     
  3. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    it never really gets that cold here. I still don't have a winter jacket. Used some fallweight h&m parka all winter and was fine. Even the coldest days if i had a thermal and a sweatshirt under it i was good to go. Only snowed bad like 2-3 times. Is like 85degrees today though. All kinds of swamp ass. You can try to sell toj at alan bilzerian lol (but seriously that store is dope as hell like atelier for i-gents)

    Dude, I want to believe you, but I just can't. Boston has to be cold man. I contemplate suicide when it gets below 45, so cold is relative idea I guess.
     
  4. Bona Drag

    Bona Drag Senior member

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    If construction/fit/look is on point, why not?
    b/c there are dozens of brands with on-point construction and fit but no relationship to the olsen twins
     
  5. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I too, have thought of opening up a business selling 10 inch reel to reel tapes of post-punk albums.
     
  6. lmaozedong

    lmaozedong Senior member

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    A restaurant has always been in the cards for me, but my girlfriend is down for the cause now, and this lady has a bit of money on her, so I am down too. She doesn't care where we go. I think DC might even be a good place for a knockout ramen shop. Never been to DC actually, though my best friend works on the Hill, but it seems to me that really hard-hitting versions of these non-sushi Japanese foods are few and far between in America, and doing it out of California or the west coast seems a little played. Also, I obviously want to have a line out the door and keep young people with enough money to spend on a bowl of noodle soup to keep coming in and out. What do you think about DC, Mauro?

    DC is absolute shit for any kind of asian food, from what I gathered when I lived there for the summer. Chinatown is nonexistent and the only place to even get Asian groceries is in Maryland or Virginia. I'm quite sure the people at the Japanese embassy are dying for good ramen [​IMG]. I spent a couple weekends just searching for acceptable ramen in the city and came up completely empty and had to buy package ramen from this tiny ass Japanese supermarket. Good, inexpensive, ethnic food does massively well in DC (see Amsterdam Falafel, Julia's Empanadas etc.). PLEASE come and open a ramen shop. I will go 2-3 times a week for sure.
     
  7. Lynx_the_one

    Lynx_the_one Senior member

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    DC is absolute shit for any kind of asian food, from what I gathered when I lived there for the summer. Chinatown is nonexistent and the only place to even get Asian groceries is in Maryland or Virginia. I'm quite sure the people at the Japanese embassy are dying for good ramen [​IMG]. I spent a couple weekends just searching for acceptable ramen in the city and came up completely empty and had to buy package ramen from this tiny ass Japanese supermarket. Good, inexpensive, ethnic food does massively well in DC (see Amsterdam Falafel, Julia's Empanadas etc.). PLEASE come and open a ramen shop. I will go 2-3 times a week for sure.

    This, but put it near BCC in bethesda.
     
  8. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    b/c there are dozens of brands with on-point construction and fit but no relationship to the olsen twins
    Why does it matter so much to you? Rappers wear Margiela and Raf, so by association those brands are no longer cool and we shouldn't wear them? All of our brands are worn by celebs so therefore we shouldn't be wearing any of them, right?
     
  9. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Location:
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    DC is absolute shit for any kind of asian food, from what I gathered when I lived there for the summer. Chinatown is nonexistent and the only place to even get Asian groceries is in Maryland or Virginia. I'm quite sure the people at the Japanese embassy are dying for good ramen [​IMG]. I spent a couple weekends just searching for acceptable ramen in the city and came up completely empty and had to buy package ramen from this tiny ass Japanese supermarket. Good, inexpensive, ethnic food does massively well in DC (see Amsterdam Falafel, Julia's Empanadas etc.). PLEASE come and open a ramen shop. I will go 2-3 times a week for sure.

    That is comforting to know. I miss my friend and he's probably never gonna leave the Hill, and I wouldn't mind a change of scenery while upping what I do.

    I'm thinking I'm gonna have a small place with a long counter, 5 or 6 menu items (a sick raw silk tofu/heirloom tomato/lettuce and shiso salad in wasabi yuzu dressing I've always liked, an avocado and maguro, in cilantro and vinaigrette-type starter, buta no kakuni and duck buns like momofuku does, pork and shrimp gyoza, and then a choice of tonkotsu or shio (my girl is from Fukuoka but I like Shio better, and we need the non-pork option) and then a fusion dessert. No choices basically, but I want to keep a line out the door of sq4 types who ball on maison martin margiela and blackwater money. [​IMG]
     
  10. chronoaug

    chronoaug Senior member

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    This little cafe japonaise place just opened next to my apt. Is kinda neat looking inside. Have beer/sake/wine in addition to teas, coffee drinks and small dishes. However, there is nothing special about it other than the atmosphere. Doing a dual restaurant/bar kinda thing would be cool. If you marketed it right and had a good concept and did some events you could make ok money i'd imagine.
     
  11. Listi

    Listi Senior member

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    Toronto, Canada
    Why does it matter so much to you? Rappers wear Margiela and Raf, so by association those brands are no longer cool and we shouldn't wear them? All of our brands are worn by celebs so therefore we shouldn't be wearing any of them, right?

    The only problem is when they wear only the designers gaudy logo'ed/horrible looking pieces incorrectly sized/not matched up well.

    It makes the brand seem like all they have to offer is a name.
     
  12. Nouveau Pauvre

    Nouveau Pauvre Senior member

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    I'll just leave this here

    [​IMG]
     
  13. DLester

    DLester Senior member

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    Good, inexpensive, ethnic food does massively well in DC (see Amsterdam Falafel, Julia's Empanadas etc.).

    true, also must add:
    + Ethiopian, need zilzil tibbs
    + shawarma, I could eat that every day

    . . .
    like your posts, usually I don't bother reading long posts but yours deliver.

    /end sycophancy
     
  14. BB1

    BB1 Senior member

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    Well I don't know from fast fashion. We don't have an H&M or Zara anywhere around here. But the internet has opened up "fashion" for people like me who live in Bumfuck, Nowhere who would otherwise have no options other than Macy's, American Eagle, Express, and possibly J. Crew if we're lucky.

    For me the Internet has made shopping more global. In the last year I've bought clothing from many stores spanning 6 different countries. But prior to the Internet, unless you lived in a large fashionable city or frequently visited places like NYC, Paris, or Tokyo, it is not so likely you would even be aware of much beyond the mall brands tagutcow lists.

    The larger selection available via the Internet also seems to increase competition. For example, no longer am I willing to buy whatever is available locally unless it I feel it is an outstanding piece. Increasingly I feel local shops need to improve their game, or else I'll buy nothing from them.
     
  15. BB1

    BB1 Senior member

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    true, also must add:
    + Ethiopian, need zilzil tibbs


    I fucking love Ethiopian food!
     
  16. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    true, also must add: + Ethiopian, need zilzil tibbs + shawarma, I could eat that every day like your posts, usually I don't bother reading long posts but yours deliver. /end sycophancy
    Word on the street is that Seattle has some of the best Ethiopian in America
     
  17. AR_Six

    AR_Six Senior member

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    I'll just leave this here
    [​IMG]
     
  18. BB1

    BB1 Senior member

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    These big companies like H&M and Zara are bastardizing true fashion and talent. So a man or a woman can have close to the real thing but not really. If you can't afford it don't buy and don't steal it from someone who worked very hard to create something special. Didn't we learn anything from this recession??

    While I don't condone flat-out copycat designs, it seems like the more visionary designers need to work harder to differentiate their designs. If a fast fashion company feels comfortable immediately copying a design and selling it en mass, then obviously the design wasn't very far ahead of what's already popular! In other words, does a fast fashion culture influence designers to create more unique, fashion forward designs in an effort to outpace the industry?
     
  19. driveslowk

    driveslowk Senior member

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    I think anything a designer makes can be copied visually and churned out by fast fashion in a matter of 2-3 months.
     
  20. AR_Six

    AR_Six Senior member

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    ^Which is why he's saying the stuff is getting more out there, H&M isn't going to rip off a runway look that they can't sell to the plebian hordes. Geller, though, they can totally poach.

    PS still can't figure out how you guessed my first name.
     

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