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Now with pics: Proper button height / stance for a one-button tuxedo jacket?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by theyare, May 30, 2012.

  1. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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    Looking to get a one button peak lapel tuxedo / dinner jacket made.

    Will be worn with bowtie and either low cut vest or cummerbund.

    For the button height, would it be appropriate to use the same stance as my 2 button suits? That is, it would be an identical fit to a 2 button suit, just without the lower button.

    Or should the one button be placed a couple of inches down from where the top button on a 2 button suit would be?
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Depends where the button placement of the jacket you refer to is related to your waist. You could use the same position or lower it. If you lower it, think in increments of 1/4" at a time, not a couple of inches. Regarding button position, an inch is like a mile. Lower buttoning point shows more shirt. It's a good thing to wear your trouser higher on the waist as well.
     
  3. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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    Thanks D.
    The reason I was mentioning 2 inches is that I am ordering through MTM program and am basically deciding between the "regular stance" and the "low stance", where they told me that the button is 18.5" down from the shoulder on the regular and 20.5" on the low.

    I figured for a black tuxedo jacket / bowtie, the additional white shirt that's visible would present better providing more contrast.

    For what it's worth, the top button on my 2 button suits probably buttons 2" above my navel area.
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very, very risky. Have them send the jacket with no buttonhole made and have a tailor and yourself find the correct placement for the button. It's a permanent deal breaker if it's in the wrong place, don't guess.

    Even clients I've made clothes for years, I want a final fitting before cutting the buttonhole.
     
  5. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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    But even if I do that - the lapel "roll" is going to be in the same place regardless, right?
    So even if the actual button hole ends up in the correct spot, the lapel roll could end up at the higher stance anyways?
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You can get the lapel to roll lower by shortening the collar but cannot make it roll higher without putting on a longer collar. That would require a new under collar and extra length on the top collar.
     
  7. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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    Here's a snap of the stance / fit on my 2 button suit. Again, for a one-button tuxedo, am I better off just leaving the single button at the same height as the top button in the pic below. Or should I go for the "low cut" offering which would be 2" or so lower.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Don't lower it by more than a half-inch.

    By the way, the shirt sleeves above are too short, and there are some lesser problems.
     
  9. dirkweems

    dirkweems Well-Known Member

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    Go to a tailor and ask him to find your "natural waist". That should be where the button goes, if the length of the jacket is indeed appropriate for your body. People are now getting coats cut short or long based on celebrity style. Nevertheless, one button is the way to go. The only downside is that it is notoriously difficult to execute correctly. It does look grand if you cut high armholes and have some skirt.
     
  10. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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    I guess this would be the stance I have in my head that am trying to get....

    [​IMG]
     
  11. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    I have no problems with where your suit jacket buttons.
     

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