Novice Needs Help (Custom or MTM Shirts)

[Manton]

Originally Posted by whoopee

Chan's shirtings are also less variable than Jantzen's.
Good point. With Jantzen, you choose cloth based on web photos. I gather that most of the cloth is end stock, and the consumer really has no way to know how good it is. With Chan, at least you have reputable brands to fall back on. And, of course, they travel, so you can see swatches and not just pictures.

 

[Mentos]

Originally Posted by Manton

Good point. With Jantzen, you choose cloth based on web photos. I gather that most of the cloth is end stock, and the consumer really has no way to know how good it is. With Chan, at least you have reputable brands to fall back on. And, of course, they travel, so you can see swatches and not just pictures.

I think that Chan has some not-so-good fabrics--give the one you're considering a good rub.

Even with Chan my first shirt felt a bit off. The cuffs were too tight and the sleeves a smidge short. (I solved that problem by getting shoe polish all over the shirt after three wearings.) Also, there is a lot less room for Jantzen error if you have your tailor measure you.

But if you want a sure thing, Chan is a lot closer than Jantzen.

 

[wheelerray]

My overall best shirt buys have been:

1. Nordstrom Rack. I buy for quality and neck size, then have my tailor fit them to me. Shirts run from $7 (clearance) to $50.00 (Canali, Zenga, etc.

My tailor charges $22.00 each to bring in the sides and narrow the shoulders, shortening the sleeves at the same time--I negotiated a quantity discount since I've had him do about 25 shirts recently

2. Charles Trywhitt slim fit. They fit well with no alterations. For shirts on clearance using a coupon for $100.00 off all orders over $250, I paid $29.00 per shirt. Not premium quality, but certainly worth $29.

I ordered a shirt from Jantzen in August, but am still waiting. Ordered one from mysuitshop.com, and it came withinin 10 days, but I don't like the stiff, cheap feeling fusing in the neck and cuffs.

 

[JRinDC]

Thanks guys. This is all great information. What about Hemrajani/My Tailor? They're coming to DC this month too. Do they stack up with Chan and Jantzen?

 

[whoopee]

Slightly short sleeves (about 1/2"-3'4&quot seem a trend with Chan's first tries. They ddi that on mine and those of a couple friends I referred. They also default to fused collars and cuffs but will gladly do canvassed. They replaced mine on my finished shirt, which incidentally, was an almost perfect really slim fit through the body and sleeves. The collars generally could be higher, too. Let them know your preferences, but if you are really obsessive, remember that they are tailors first and shirtmakers second, so they don't carry a really wide range of interlinings, etc.

 

[Mentos]

Originally Posted by JRinDC

Thanks guys. This is all great information. What about Hemrajani/My Tailor? They're coming to DC this month too. Do they stack up with Chan and Jantzen?

Seem to recall that they gave better fit than Jantzen (not shocking), but slightly less good build than Chan (not shocking, given that they're a little cheaper). They've gotten a little coverage here before--try searching. Chan will be in DC mid-Nov.

 

[jester]

Originally Posted by JRinDC

What about Hemrajani/My Tailor? They're coming to DC this month too. Do they stack up with Chan and Jantzen?

I'm a big fan of Hemrajani, particularly for suits. I've had several made and they've all been very good indeed, and his professionalism is impeccable. My Hemrajani shirt was not perfect, but I think this was more my fault, imprecise instructions, rather than poor manufacture. My experiences with Chan have not been positive, though I acknowledge I'm in the minority here in that regard.

I've had several go-rounds with Jantzen and have finally decided it's not worth the effort. Though all of my orders were fulfilled very quickly, there were various fit problems that I could never get addressed.

My plan for the future is to bring a beloved Savile Row shirt to Hemrajani, have him copy it, and then just order Thomas Mason fabrics as necessary.

By the way, I'm also pretty easy to fit OTR--15.5/34 works very well for me--but the ability to choose my fabric, and in particular to select the small tailoring details that make me actively happy to wear MTM/bespoke clothing, is worth the time and expense over OTR.