not another suit critique

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spectzix, Sep 22, 2012.

  1. spectzix

    spectzix Active Member

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    I've been on styleforum for a while starting since college, back then I never had the money or connection for good suits

    this is my second bespoke suit, have been refining the details based on suggestions from this site.

    Suit is from a HK tailor recommended by SF, house VBC 110s fabric

    Shirt and shoes are also custom from HK

    Please critique on the fit, style and details of the suit. thanks!

    #1
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    # 2
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    #5
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    There are two points that I'm concerned about:

    1. The shoulder is a bit too narrow, it actually sticks out more than the suit shoulder line when you button up the jacket, you can kind of see that from the pictures

    2. The tailor says the jacket sleeves should be this long, but I personally like to show 1/2" even when arms are straight (for example in picture # 4 it does not show)

    Any comments appreciated! Could not have gotten to what I have today without all the help from SF members!
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2012


  2. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    I don't see big problems here, except that the trousers could be hemmed a bit. You are tall and lean so probably you will benefit from having a more constructed jacket.
     


  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    The tailor had done a good job with your skinny body.

    I don't see any problems with the sleeves length, this is how I carry my stuff as well.

    Personally no love on this shirt with a sober suit.

    p.s. where is the place on the picture, words are written in traditional chinese but it is definitely not Hong Kong
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2012


  4. jt10000

    jt10000 Senior member

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    I wish my suits looked this bad.

    Very nice.

    I think a tiny bit of shift cuff should show even when arms are straight.
     


  5. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Taiwan I guess.
     


  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I don't think the tailor fully took account of your right shoulder (which is a bit lower than the left) which creates a little wrinkling on the back.

    I think the styling makes sense with your frame.
     


  7. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    It is generally very good and you wear it well.

    I would have to agree that the right should is a little off - the gathering of cloth on the back shows this but it is not a great issue. The shirt is fine with the suit (to disagree with the comment above) but the shirt sleeve length may be a tad short. I would certainly not fault the coat.

    The trousers are generally very good but I cannot make my mind up about the length, In the third and last views they look a little long with excess break but in the fourth they are fine. Can you post views (front and rear) of the trousers without the coat? I am wondering where they are sitting and whether the issue is that they are slipping down slightly. Those views may show the problem - if problem there be.

    A view of the inside of the coat showing lining and pockets would be useful - often neglected but it shows how your taylor finished those.

    Overall it is a fine suit, the styling suits you well and you should be pleased with it. Now put us out of our mystery, who was the tailor - this is a good recommendation for anyone to patronise him.

    Congratulations.
     


  8. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

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    Wow, I think it looks really nice on you. I'm no expert, but just a rookie who is suit shopping and reading around SF. What would be the name of the type of fabric & weave of your suit? It looks like there's a minimal amount of sheen to it, or maybe it's just the flash. Solid charcoal? Tic? (I'm clueless on this, but trying to learn)

    I'd love to know who the tailor was as well since I do visit HK with my family occasionally. How much did this cost you in USD?
     


  9. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    The back balance on the trousers is a little long- I.e. there is a little too much cloth in the seat.

    Get rid of that and the trousers should have a sharp line in front without your having to put your hands in your pockets.
     


  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    It would be good if the OP could respond to these complimentary comments.
     


  11. spectzix

    spectzix Active Member

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    As Maccimum said correctly, the pictures were taken in Taiwan


    Thanks for the comments GBR, this week has been extremely busy.

    I'm still debating whether it's worth taking it back to the tailor to fix the shoulders and sleeve length. Maybe I will keep this one as is and for my next one I'll make sure these changes are applied.
    I'm currently traveling so I will post pictures this weekend without the jacket to show the trousers. Will also post a picture of the inside of the jacket.


    The suit was done by Gordon Yao, and the fabric was using his house VBC 100% wool in solid charcoal. You can email Mr. Yao for latest pricing. I would recommend you have enough time for the 2 fittings since it really makes a difference.


    Thanks again for all the comments!
     


  12. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Thanks the additional pictures will be useful.

    Gordon's quality really does show in this suit and it is a strong recommendation. Few have been as well received here as this.
     


  13. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    The pants are too long and the sleeves are a little long. The jacket could stand to be a tad bit longer, but it's not bad.
     


  14. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    Amazing result with one fitting and it is first suit with Gordon Yao. Another fitting or next suit will be better. Personally, I prefer a softer should pad and more lape roll. Afterall, it is a great suit.
     


  15. myk7000

    myk7000 Senior member

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    You sir are a thin man.

    Looks pretty fly. Nitpicking, I'd say get the pants hemmed slightly so there's only a tiny break.

    I'd say overall a nice look though! And get yourself a matching belt!
     


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