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Non-Rule "Rules"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.

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  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    On #5, I generally agree but my moleskins / bedford cords etc. are all unpleated.

    On #6, my rule is the opposite - nothing but single forwards.
     
  2. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

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    What about black gunboat with natural sole edging paired with white slim fit casual pants, slim fit shirt?
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    black and khaki are just oysters and peanut butter.

    I mean, what's next, is someone going to praise black with seersucker??
     
  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Still awful
     
  5. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    +1, this is a great look.
     
  6. CBrown85

    CBrown85 Senior member

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    I stand the opposite with pleats- I don't need clothing that disagrees with my body type.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How can pleats disagree with your body type? Everybody needs to bend at the hips, no matter how large or small. Look down at your lap next time you sit down in flat front pants. It's atrocious.

    Also, they help pants drape better and are visually pleasing. The added lines break up the expanse of cloth across your pelvis and emphasize vertical length.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I got one pair of non-pleated pants recently, first in decades, certainly since HS. They are, for lack of better terms, "sexier" and more youthful looking but in every other respect they are inferior.
     
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  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ^ Again, I broadly agree - but are you guys really getting moleskins and cords with pleats?
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You raise a good point. More casual pants made of thicker cloth can be flat front--but I would have them pleated if possible.
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You might say they put the Man in Manton.
     
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  12. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ambrosi had no problem making me moleskins and cords with pleats
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, but did he deliver them to you after?
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes, this was before all the troubles
     
  15. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    I don't disagree with the idea that pleated pants are functionally better, but the aesthetic aspect is entirely subjective. This comes from someone who entirely supports pleats.

    Because of the somewhat recent talk on here about pleats, I decided to conduct an experiment. I had two pairs of pants made with the same cloth to the exact same specifications. The only difference is one pair is flat front and the other is pleated (single, forward pleats to be specific). I just received them (benefit of not using Ambrosi). If I remember, I'll try to start a thread with pics of both to let people see what they prefer on me from an aesthetic perspective.
     
  16. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    First, someone asked about hacking/riding/hunting jackets. Yes, they are usually single vented. Women's jackets -- even though hunt gear is supposed to be largely unisex -- can be either single or double. But there are sold aesthetic reasons for this.


    Yes, the effect is quasi military, that's why it's to be avoided, at least in the U.S.. In the UK, this look evokes the British Expeditionary Force in the Raj. Here it says, " mall cop."



    You need to expand this a bit. You don't match them to your shoes, do you?

    Or do you mean you always include a bit of a pattern? I usually do this, too. But typically, when I'm wearing a suit, I'm not reaching for the fun socks.

    Once again, not exactly, but pretty close. I have one belt that hits a real sweet between brown and red that works with a surprising number of different shoes.

    This really depends. First, I'm not buying your theory about the "pleasing vertical lines." If you're wearing a jacket, no one ought to be able to see the pleats when you are standing up. Second, pleats don't look that great when you sit down. I certainly have some suits with pleated pants but most of my odd trousers are flat front. There may be a day in my not-too-distant future when I have to switch entirely to pleats, but not today.

    This one really surprises me. I am fairly tall and sometimes even I resort to at least a double four-in-hand. Four-in-hand is certainly the default but some other knots do serve a useful purpose on occasion.



    I can see not wanting to carry a garment bag. But you can certainly put a pair of pants in just a regular carry-on without them suffering. Or are these just day trips?

    I used to have a pair of "saddle bags" that went over my laptop case. They were the ultimate in minimalist travel. They held one shirt, 1 pair underwear and socks, one tie and one pair of pants. They were just perfect for overnight trips. But then, for some reason, the airlines began giving me such regularly grief about them that I gave up and I haven't used them in quite a long time. But it was great while it lasted. I could go directly to meetings and no one realized I had all me luggage right with me.
     
  17. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    I only wear plain, no pattern whatsoever, socks with tweed or plaid trousers. Otherwise I find it all too fussy down there.
     
  18. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    I live in a quiet suburb in the Bay Area. My name is Mr. Moo. I'm 29 years old. I believe in taking care of myself, and a balanced diet and a rigorous exercise routine. In the morning, if my face is a little puffy, I'll put on an ice pack while doing my stomach crunches. I can do a thousand now. After I remove the ice pack, I use a deep pore cleanser lotion. In the shower, I use a water activated gel cleanser. Then a honey almond body scrub. And on the face, an exfoliating gel scrub. Then apply an herb mint facial mask, which I leave on for 10 minutes while I prepare the rest of my routine. I always use an aftershave lotion with little or no alcohol, because alcohol dries your face out and makes you look older. Then moisturizer, then an anti-aging eye balm followed by a final moisturizing protective lotion. There is an idea of a Mr. Moo, some kind of abstraction, but there is no real me. Only an entity, something illusory. And though I can hide my cold gaze, and you can shake my hand and feel flesh gripping yours and maybe you can even sense our life styles are probably comparable, I simply am not there.
     
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  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why are matching to your pants or shoes the only choices? I think of my socks the same way I think of everything else I wear. They ought to integrate into the outfit, but that doesn't mean they need to "match" whatever they are adjacent to. Surely you don't think about your tie or pocket square that way--if you do, you are doing something wrong on a much larger scale.

    All of my regular socks are solid navy, burgundy, or brown. Navy pretty much complements everything but navy trousers. The other two colors fill in the gaps. I don't consider such socks to be "fun socks" at all.

    I am not categorically opposed to patterned socks, but they are more trouble than they are worth.


    Sounds about right.


    I unbutton my jackets from time to time, so the pleats do show. But, as I pointed out, they also help pants drape better. That effect comes through whether or not someone can see the actual pleats.

    When you sit in flat front pants, the cloth is forced to pile up in large folds--unfortunately, often in one large one.


    Four-in-hand isn't just for size, but shape. Nothing is worse than a symmetrical tie knot. If you are tall, you should have your ties made appropriate for your size. Then, you can wear them four-in-hand, as God intended.
     
  20. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    All my trousers are flat front because that's what my wife likes and insists on. :embar:
     

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