Non-Rule "Rules"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.

Tags:
  1. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

    Messages:
    2,139
    Likes Received:
    159
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    Is that a wool tie?
     


  2. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

    Messages:
    553
    Likes Received:
    73
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2009
    

    I don't detect condescension in anyone's tone here. Nore is anyone is ruling out people buying good stuff off the rack, even when they frame the discussion from a bespoke perspective.
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    Two things: (1) from personal experience, both with clothing and other things, I strongly believe you generally get what you pay for, and (2) I make no assumptions about anyone's financial wherewithal. Thus, yes, the optimal solution is often to get a better tailor. Now, if someone tells me that's not feasible, it's one thing. As a community, I think we should try to address everyone's situation regardless of their means. But I also think there should be no illusion that you can easily spend much less to get as much as what another spends much more to obtain. To dress well, you need to have an eye for detail and nuance--so, telling yourself "oh it's all the same," which happens a lot when people don't want to believe nicer things tend to cost more, is something to be avoided.
     


  4. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,214
    Likes Received:
    1,005
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2004
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    

    I'm sympathetic to your position, if only because I have a fuzzy grey twill odd jacket that I wear with khakis or sometimes with cream cords. That said, I wouldn't buy this jacket again. Like a lot of members here, I made several ill-advised purchases as I started getting interested in tailored clothing. Most of them I got rid of, but the grey jacket is pretty useful for me, especially considering how casually I dress 350 days a year.

    Some of you guys are posting pics of grey tweed jackets, and those are in no way considered "wrong."
     


  5. JPHardy

    JPHardy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,222
    Likes Received:
    461
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2008
    Many Manton rules broken in this fit.

    [​IMG]
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    fuck that is terrible
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Ctp @120

    That is not good for a lot of reasons. Quite “suity” without being a suit. The coat is not variegated enough to be a good gray odd jacket. Coat and trou too close in tone. One other important point. While the coat fits well, to me this is a big advertisement for the benefits of drape. You have somewhat narrow shoulders and a shallow chest. Your hips look bigger than your chest and just barely as wide as your shoulders. Add some drape to that coat and all that gets fixed by magic.

    Dieworkwear @ 298: I am pretty sure the top pic is the LL Agnelli flannel, that is, a suit. The second pic is iusedtobematt’s gray Donegal. Gray Donegal is nice.
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,947
    Likes Received:
    31,124
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    you are correct. gaz said as much in your "whnay." thread.
     


  9. ctp120

    ctp120 Senior member

    Messages:
    681
    Likes Received:
    476
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2009
    

    Interesting. While I've nothing against drape and like most examples I've seen, you could hardly be more wrong about my real physique. I'm tall and thin (40 jacket), but I actually have a pretty muscular build with the opposite of a shallow chest and a 10 inch drop from jacket to pant size.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    All you need to do is fill out the chest a little near the bottom of the armscye. Look at iwasmatt's gray donegal.
     


  11. ctp120

    ctp120 Senior member

    Messages:
    681
    Likes Received:
    476
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2009
    Meant to say too, that while I agree that the trousers and coat are probably too close in this pairing, I disagree that the jacket isn't variegated enough. It's not like matt's donegal, sure, but it still easily reads as an odd jacket in person.

    I also appreciate the effort you're giving to comment on everything in these threads, even if I disagree with some of the assessment. Keep it up.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  12. CBrown85

    CBrown85 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,987
    Likes Received:
    646
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    

    So, in short, the answer is 'no'.
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    It is not possible to approach the platonic ideal of well dressed without money. It is quite possible to improve one's dress on a limited budget and even to dress much better than people who spend a lot more but have no taste and/or no idea what they are doing.
     


  14. ctp120

    ctp120 Senior member

    Messages:
    681
    Likes Received:
    476
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2009
    

    ^This.
     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,947
    Likes Received:
    31,124
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    agreed. sadly.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by