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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.
Is that a wool tie?
I don't detect condescension in anyone's tone here. Nore is anyone is ruling out people buying good stuff off the rack, even when they frame the discussion from a bespoke perspective.
Two things: (1) from personal experience, both with clothing and other things, I strongly believe you generally get what you pay for, and (2) I make no assumptions about anyone's financial wherewithal. Thus, yes, the optimal solution is often to get a better tailor. Now, if someone tells me that's not feasible, it's one thing. As a community, I think we should try to address everyone's situation regardless of their means. But I also think there should be no illusion that you can easily spend much less to get as much as what another spends much more to obtain. To dress well, you need to have an eye for detail and nuance--so, telling yourself "oh it's all the same," which happens a lot when people don't want to believe nicer things tend to cost more, is something to be avoided.
I'm sympathetic to your position, if only because I have a fuzzy grey twill odd jacket that I wear with khakis or sometimes with cream cords. That said, I wouldn't buy this jacket again. Like a lot of members here, I made several ill-advised purchases as I started getting interested in tailored clothing. Most of them I got rid of, but the grey jacket is pretty useful for me, especially considering how casually I dress 350 days a year.
Some of you guys are posting pics of grey tweed jackets, and those are in no way considered "wrong."
Many Manton rules broken in this fit.
fuck that is terrible
That is not good for a lot of reasons. Quite “suity” without being a suit. The coat is not variegated enough to be a good gray odd jacket. Coat and trou too close in tone. One other important point. While the coat fits well, to me this is a big advertisement for the benefits of drape. You have somewhat narrow shoulders and a shallow chest. Your hips look bigger than your chest and just barely as wide as your shoulders. Add some drape to that coat and all that gets fixed by magic.
Dieworkwear @ 298: I am pretty sure the top pic is the LL Agnelli flannel, that is, a suit. The second pic is iusedtobematt’s gray Donegal. Gray Donegal is nice.
you are correct. gaz said as much in your "whnay." thread.
Interesting. While I've nothing against drape and like most examples I've seen, you could hardly be more wrong about my real physique. I'm tall and thin (40 jacket), but I actually have a pretty muscular build with the opposite of a shallow chest and a 10 inch drop from jacket to pant size.
All you need to do is fill out the chest a little near the bottom of the armscye. Look at iwasmatt's gray donegal.
Meant to say too, that while I agree that the trousers and coat are probably too close in this pairing, I disagree that the jacket isn't variegated enough. It's not like matt's donegal, sure, but it still easily reads as an odd jacket in person.
I also appreciate the effort you're giving to comment on everything in these threads, even if I disagree with some of the assessment. Keep it up.
So, in short, the answer is 'no'.
It is not possible to approach the platonic ideal of well dressed without money. It is quite possible to improve one's dress on a limited budget and even to dress much better than people who spend a lot more but have no taste and/or no idea what they are doing.
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