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Non-Rule "Rules"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.

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  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    not sure, I get this...
     
  2. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Senior member

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    No brown shoes with ties in strong colours like dark red, midnight or purple.

    No black shoes if your ensemble has a predominance of rustic colours like brown, orange and green.
     
  3. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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  4. Calder

    Calder Senior member

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  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is very important I would say especially for guys shaped like me and skinny guys. My hips are almost as wide as my shoulders and I am a bit "up-and-down". Recently, I have been getting more chest on my suits and now it actually looks like my body has shape to it. Also, I have been getting fullness in the back in the side seams and next to the armhole. Comfortable.
     
  6. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it's been made clear several times now that tweed is fine. They're talking about grey "blazers" or grey in any cloth that could be taken for city suiting.
     
  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    you're welcome. many thanks for taking your time and help me out.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah but it's not like you guys are wearing nothing but gray-white-blue-black all the time. I guess we would have to define "gimmick" but your clothes can be eye catching.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    unbelragazzo@331: both are bad for different reasons. I agree, the top one is better but it’s also a rather silly caricature of New England summer trad. And it’s a good illustration of a point made earlier in this thread that I am surprised to find is controversial. If you are going to wear a really bold piece then everything else needs to be quiet. So, OK, green pants. Blazer is good. Pink shirt, well, it’s not awful but blue would be better. Exploding square, silly. Really, that demands a white TV fold. Tie is OK I guess, could be quieter. If topsiders, they should be brown.

    Hendrix @332: they both suck.

    Re: the duke. Have never liked that outfit. I see what you are saying about blended colors and you’re right, it does save him from a total meltdown. But again, that suit would look a lot better with a plain shirt and a plain white square. Frankly, the deeper problem is that the windownpane is just too loud, it needs to be fuzzed out and toned down.

    Tutee, your rules 4, 5 and 6 are shocking to me.

    Tm79, there is nothing incorrect about that coat. It’s just banal. If you want a gray herringbone, look instead for a really hairy Harris tweed with a much larger pattern.
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    imo, gimmick =/= eye catching

    to me, eye catching can be anything that manages to pleasantly catch the eye, a nice contrast, a nice texture, a nice pattern.... but the thing itself is in no way outlandish. gimmick to me always implies that the item doesn't really carry any value outside of being there to attract attention.
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you're going to wear those green pants, isn't that kind of a forgone conclusion? And if so, why not just embrace it?

    Anyway, I don't want to get too entrenched in my defense of that photo in particular. I think part of the disagreement stems from your version of "bold" being not quite so outlandish as green pants, so when worn with quieter items the contrast isn't so great. But I still maintain that the general strategy of wearing bold items with quiet items results in "highlighting" the bold item, accentuating its boldness and its separation from the rest of the composition, as opposed to "blending" it in with the other elements, which is a more difficult but more rewarding task.
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  13. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Will is great but that bowtie is spectacularly bad.

    If I could take those same green pants and dress the guy myself for the rest, and put side by side with that pic, it would be clear that one loud trumps many louds.

    I was trying to find a great Tom Wolfe quote that I know I have posted before. Anyway, it was about how these Boston Brahmins dressed for parties at the Vineyard, really loud pants, but everything above the waist super sedate. "The pants were their note of Haitian abandon ... at the same time the jackets and ites showed they had not forgottten where the power came from."
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  14. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    to say that the Flusser red pants/plaid jacket/suede loafers outfit is balanced and not one element stands out is almost as bad as wearing that outfit.
     
  15. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think Alan lost his mind in 1988
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, it was later than that. I first met him in 1992 and he was dressing very well. He started to go awry in the 2000s.
     
  17. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Senior member

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    Cashmere/silk (55/45, if I remember correctly), and quite substantial.
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    By the way, did you ever publish that piece on Wolfe and California? I remember you saying you were exchanging emails with him?
     
  19. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  20. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Senior member

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    Not Harris (Shetland, I think), but pretty hairy:

    [​IMG]

    Harris and Neanderthal:

    [​IMG]
     

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