Non-Rule "Rules"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.

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  1. schrag

    schrag Well-Known Member

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    Amen to Manton, I got caught up in getting some neat 'unique' pieces but didn't have enough staples for a coherent cross-wardrobe upgrade. Now I'm working getting enough white and blue dress shirts, basic trousers, etc so the staples are interchangeable and bring the consistency up to a new level. I have recently, at least, taken care of most of my sport shirt needs so I'm rarely in a t-shirt anymore... and now I feel under dressed when I am!
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  2. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Re: the trajectory, I think the constant chorus of the forums/blogosphere/menswear movement has made it worse, dulling people to just how unusual a lot of the stuff popular online seems to the average person. Orange trou that once seemed so daring now need spiced up, so our recent convert adds blue shoes ... and some beads ... and a knit tie ... and ends up speaking a language only his efriends understand.

    I dress pretty sedately these days. Partly because of the trajectory and partly because I realize my chelseas and knits aren't as mundane to everyone else as they seem to me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Another non-rule rule of mine: Shoes shouldn't be the focal point of an outfit -- not for color or contrast or shape or decoration.
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    100% agreed.
     


  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    thank you for that. it both gives me hope, and makes me want to hit myself.

    my first "commissioned" piece was a zegna su misura, medium gray herringbobe with a sky blue chalk stripe. which i love, but have found to be so minimally versatile i get so :fu: when i think about what i spent on that when i really needed so many other things.

    on the other hand, i have since bought a solid gray suit, a bunch of solid white and blue shirts, and some nice solid gray and brown SCs.

    then again, i have fallen off the wagon numerous times buying things that caught my eye, only to find them useful with a single combination of other items.

    i think i really need to work on getting a lot more versatile ties. some soporific neats and solids.

    your narrative is great, and its definitely a path i think i am on. though i imagine i will always tend to lean towards a bit of excitement, for better or worse, its just my personality. money is a tad lacking, but that just means it will take longer.

    thanks, manton. :)
     


  6. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    If you were looking for formal/business shirts, you'd never see one. The English do use button down collars but they call them "sport shirts" (which can also refer to the even rarer short sleeve shirt) -- and they mean that. It would look very odd to wear one with a suit, especially in the city.

    See, e.g.,

    http://www.harvieandhudson.com/products/Shirts/Button_Down_Collar
     


  7. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    Pretty much.
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Stitchy, don't ever but another solid gray odd jacket again.
     


  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    but what will i wear with my navy office pants? :hide:

    it was herringbone, does that make a difference?

    either way you are probably/definitely right. it doesnt have a whole lot of versatility. if it were a more casual type, i thought it would be nice with khakis. would that be correct?

    also, while i have you here, i just bought this below, posted a few pages back in this thread. acceptable, or in the "dont ever do that again category?"

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I definitely would not have bought that coat. I like small checks in light weights for summer and I have two. But they need a summery palate, the ground should ideally be yellow and the rest of the colors soft, almost pastel, or else bottle green but the light shade should dominate. Lesser used to have a delightful carlo barbera book, all lambswool 8 ounces, summer mini checks, every single one had a yellow ground. Fantastic. That's gone so these days I recommend Hardy Riviera which is not as nice but the closest you can get.

    What you have there is formalish pattern (small houndstooth) in formalish colors (black, gray and white) and the result is, it looks like a big wedding tie--acres and acres of wedding tie fabrrc. Not good.

    For a gray odd jacket, my first recommendation is don't get one, my second is to get one only after you have other stuff--at a minimum, one blazer for warm weather, one for cold, two tweeds, one brown one olive (or something), and either a light summer jacket or a linen suit whose coat you can wear separately in the summer. Once you have all that and you still want a gray odd jacket, then you can get a Harris tweed B&W (or dark & light gray) herringbone, or a gray donegal with lots of heathery flecks, or a large-scale B&W glen plaid (with NO overcheck) either in soft tweed for fall-winter or a slubby silk blend (pure silk is too shiney) for spring-summer. That's it. All other gray odd jackets suck.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    FML :(

    ill wear it for now i guess, but we will see how long for.

    was planning on using charcoal pants. good idea? what shade would you use if you HAD too?

    thanks for the advise. will definitely keep in mind for my future purchases.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I guess mid gray is the best you could do. Cream or offwhite gabardine if you have them.
     


  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    What size wuz it?
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i have no white or cram dress pants. not my thing. mid gray it is. thank you.


    44R. FTR, i am gonna keep it and wear it. i do like it, despite my newfound knowledge. the question is only how long for. :)
     


  15. NakedYoga

    NakedYoga Senior member

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    1. Only solid white or solid pale blue shirts for court.
    2. If I wear French cuffs, it's silk knots unless I wear my late grandfather's plain gold cufflinks engraved with his initials.
    3. No button-down collars with a suit, unless I'm wearing a bowtie.
    4. Only button-down collars with a bowtie.
    5. Only plain white or cream pocket square for court (and 95% of the time otherwise).
    6. No rollerskates for court.
    7. No more than two patterns at the same time.
    8. Probably other things I do subconsciously.

    Also:


    QFT.
     


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