Non-Rule "Rules"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.

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  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I think I could like it, but it would depend on the fabric. Almost-black, looks-like-they-came-from-a-suit trouser, no. But a slightly more textured, slightly lighter charcoal, yes. I should add, although...I'm not much for "rules" in general in the strictest sense. And there could be other reasons for the disdain of the navy odd trouser than what I have mentioned here, that don't extend to the charcoal trouser, so I'll wait for those who first began the navy trouser discussion in this thread to further justify their opposition to the navy trouser.
     
  2. Geezer

    Geezer Senior member

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    More easily, yes. But not impossible the other way round.

    I used to have a pair of fairly dark navy chinos that I thought worked well with a mid-green or light brown tweed odd jacket.

    I am wearing the heck out of a pair of mid blue trousers with a variety of odd jackets, both light and dark.

    I regularly wear dark jeans casually with any number of odd jackets.

    And when I many many years ago had a mid-brown camel odd jacket made, I had a pair of charcoal flannels run up in parallel, which, with a black John Smedley polo-neck, I thought was just the ticket for hanging around in cafes on the Rive Gauche chatting up art students. Not that I did as much of that as I had hoped.

    I wonder if part of the challenge is that whereas dark SCs are well-established to the point of sartorial boredom (navy blazer), light SCs are seen as per se a bit of an oddity/statement. So we have fewer non-rule rules to draw on?
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The problem with navy blue trousers is not that they are difficult to match color-wise, but that orthodox expectations of formality reserve them for wearing as part of a business suit.
     
  4. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Interesting about the navy trousers and it seems to make sense. I'm just now transitioning into trying to pair blazers and wool trousers with ties after being a predominantly business casual person. I only have a navy blazer at the moment and it's been easy to pair it up some beige trousers.

    I've seen some really nice beiges and browns on blazers that seem as though they'd go decently with navy trousers.

    Would you say it's better to pair a brown jacket with brown pants and just make sure the jacket is darker?

    I plan on looking at the WAYWN threads extensively, too.

    I've been wanting a second jacket and I have my eye on a Brooks Brothers dark brown windowpane one - problem is I am not sure what I could pair it with aside from lighter beige pants.
     
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    So you feel the same way about charcoal trousers?
     
  6. Geezer

    Geezer Senior member

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    But is it expectations of formality, or what I call "associationalism"? Take a navy blazer and grey trousers. Not long ago, a common off duty look. Now, judging from this board, it is what is worn by security guards in the US (whereas in the UK, security guards wear (i) bad grey suits, (ii) pseudo-police uniform and dayglo tabards, or (iii) black jeans, black blouson jacket and an unsociable facial expression). And, as another example, I cannot imagine wearing a corduroy jacket, whatever its merits, because over here, for my generation, corduroy jackets were something your schoolteachers wore in the 1970s.

    Are you making that judgment not on a basis of formality but because you (like me) are tired of seeing people wearing what are palpably suit trousers in all but name as part of "business casual"?

    And how, in the land of the Man In The Grey Flannel Suit, are grey flannels not seen as part of a suit, while navy trousers are?
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2012
  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    navy
     
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket should go well with your beige pants too. Or mid-grey trousers. Really, if a jacket doesn't go well with mid-grey trousers, I'm not sure it should be a jacket.
     
  9. CBrown85

    CBrown85 Senior member

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    Hah. This is exactly what I thought about when I started reading the thread. They're doing a re-make, eh.
     
  10. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It will depend upon the colors in the jacket but khaki/tan, medium grey flannel, cavalry twill in moss green or medium brown that contrast with the shade of the brown jacket.
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Also, what about more textured navy trousers? Is it only worsteds because of the suit association? I've got a pair of flannels that I guess some would call navy. But they will definitely see heavy use this fall.
     
  12. CBrown85

    CBrown85 Senior member

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    Pleats make me look short and wide. I feel uncomfortable in them and have been unable to find a flattering pair. I have no desire to spend a mortgage payment get some made.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The correct answer for trousers worn with any odd jacket is the same 99% of the time: light to medium solid gray. Gray trousers pair well with almost everything, except for grey odd jackets, which are an odd duck and arguably shouldn't exist in the first place.

    Don't over think it. Gray.



    Yes. I made the mistake of ordering dark gray trousers before I knew better. Never wear them. A blight in my wardrobe.


    I think if you dive too much into what is objectively justifiable, you will not find much here. It's just a matter of what is orthodox. Like saying "Hello" instead of making up your own word. It is what it is, even if there is immediately obvious good reason for why we say "hello" instead of something else.

    That said, there have always been grey trousers, as well as grey suits, so it's not a good analogy. Traditionally, navy blue was reserved for suits and blazers. Simple as that.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2012
  14. sullivan025

    sullivan025 Senior member

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    Flip flops with suits are a no-no in my book.
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Well, unfortunately, one generally gets what one pays for. You can't judge pleated trousers unless you've tried a proper specimen first.
     

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