I am lookng for a shirt to wear without a jacket or tie where the collar retains both its shape and doesn't collapse. (No button downs please) Most shirts in my closet start off well, but after a couple of months tend to start to limp and bend strange. i wash by hand at home and hand press. Also very particular about using the stays correctly. So, i don't think it's me. I have a couple from Boss, Paul Smith, Zegna and Eton (no removeable stays). All are ok with a sweater or jacket, but on their own start looking tired quickly. I fit most off the rack well, but dont mind custom if there is a maker who can make such a collar. I've got a budget of $150 Any suggestions?