No Bluchers with a Business Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by JLibourel, Feb 19, 2005.

  1. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior member

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    Is it okay to wear a pair of slightly squared-off black wingtips with a charcoal pinstriped DB suit? I'm talking about shoes like these (and I am talking about in a business environment): http://www.francos.com/items/item.asp?sku5=29179 Thank you. [​IMG]
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    P. 40: Clearly an illustration from the late 1940s "Bold Look". Â Also clear that Flusser is using that illustration as a cautionary: "Don't do this." P. 54: Looks like a pair of monks, which I noted were approved by Apparel Arts, even if they are against the rules. P. 93: Not clear to me that those are bluchers. P. 96: You got me; bluchers with a city suit, and it looks pretty good. Â But they are suede, which somehow works better. Â In my experience, suede make feet look smaller, all other things being equal. P. 173: Also an illustration used to convey a "Don't." message. Â Since the point is about socks, Flusser refrains from commenting on the shoes. Â I can't believe that he would approve of bluchers with such an obviously formal ensemble, but who knows.
    Why is "crime" in quotes? Â Who are you quoting?
     


  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What about something like these Berlutis: [​IMG] Strictly speaking they are derbies/bluchers, but would anyone call them country? In a derby/blucher you can reduce the number of eyelets, so you increase the length of the vamp and make the shoe more elegant. You cannot do that with an oxford/balmoral. A two or three eyelet V-front is probably the most elegant of all shoe styles.
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Not me. Yet that's a clearly a non-traditional shoe. Nothing wrong with that. A great many of the shoes we call "classics" today began life in the 20s and 30s as distinctly non-traditional shoes. Perhaps the slim-cut town blucher will also achieve "classic" status some day. Perhaps it already has, and the world has passed me by. Wouldn't be the first time.
     


  6. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The three eyelet velt blucher, and presumeably Berluti's two eyelet version of same, is well matched to lighter weight suitings. The very conservative manager at Edward Green in London does not sniff at them when they are worn in town, unlike his attitude towards conventional bluchers.

    Will
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Good enough for me.  I hereby move that the rule be amended to allow two- or three-eyelet bluchers with town suits.  Anyone care to second the motion?
     


  8. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

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    I second the motion (if someone'll send me a pair of Lobb Perriers).
     


  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I will vote for the motion (assuming, of course, that someone fulfills sevcom's request for Perriers and thereby brings his conditional second into force) provided that it's amended to include green shoes as well. [​IMG] I agree with the proposition without amendment, but there are political realities to consider.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I hereby withdraw the motion. Â That's a bridge too far. Â Way too far.
     


  11. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, shoot. I had no idea that Manton would go nuclear over something so minor. Given that he has, and in the hopes that he might be persuaded to reintroduce the motion, I withdraw by insistence on the green shoe amendment and give unconditional support to the original proposal.
     


  12. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    (JLibourel @ Feb. 19 2005,20:13) Hmmm...for whatever it's worth, I just checked out the vintage illustrations in Flusser's Dressing the Man and did find some few examples of bluchers being paired with business suits. See pages 40, 54, 93, 96, 173.
    P. 40: Clearly an illustration from the late 1940s "Bold Look". Also clear that Flusser is using that illustration as a cautionary: "Don't do this." P. 54: Looks like a pair of monks, which I noted were approved by Apparel Arts, even if they are against the rules. P. 93: Not clear to me that those are bluchers. P. 96: You got me; bluchers with a city suit, and it looks pretty good. But they are suede, which somehow works better. In my experience, suede make feet look smaller, all other things being equal. P. 173: Also an illustration used to convey a "Don't." message. Since the point is about socks, Flusser refrains from commenting on the shoes. I can't believe that he would approve of bluchers with such an obviously formal ensemble, but who knows.
    Why is "crime" in quotes? Who are you quoting?
    Dear Manton, I respect and value your wisdom and knowledge too much to wish to seem too pettifogging over this matter. However: As to the illustration on p. 54, on closer scrutiny, I think you are right. I believe I can barely descry a buckle and tab on the right shoe. P. 93: If you look closely at the figure's left shoe, they've gotta be bluchers...or maybe I need a new eye exam [​IMG] . p. 40: Flusser is talking about the coat length, not the shoes. In any event, if the illustrator and editor who originally published this did so approvingly, it does sanction the pairing of bluchers and a suit more than half-a-century ago...at least in the opinion of whoever published the image. p. 173: Huh? Where's the "Don't" message? The caption reads: "Patterned hose help integrate and enliven the top and bottom halves of his ensemble." I've made my living editing and writing for the past 30 years, and I don't see a "Don't" message in that. Admittedly, the bluchers are two-eylet, which seem to be cut some slack in this matter. "Crime" was put in quotes, not because I was quoting anyone but to denote skepticism--a common and accepted literary device, I believe.
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    As I read the text, the illustration is used to show that solid socks are boring and should be avoided. Notice that the socks pictured in the illustration are solid navy, whereas in the accompanying text (to the left) Flusser recommends some form of pattern with the same ensemble.
     


  14. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    I had considered that as a possible interpretation, but on close examination, it did look to me as if there were some sort of design in the weave of the socks in the picture...or maybe I am just imagining things.
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    There appears to be a seam or at most a self-clock. But no real pattern. I interpret the shoe-and-sock picture below the text as being Flusser's preferred option for the ensemble in question.
     


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