Nitpicking lapel roll on a 3-roll-2?

[Nomies]

Wanted to ask for your opinion and see if I'm just nitpicking.

I ordered a jacket from SuitSupply. Very good process, but no options to change the gorge and/or lapels other than width. When I get the jacket the lapels just feel off. The gorge, or rather the seam "creating" the gorge, is too parallel with the shoulder, making the lapel taper way too little if you know what I mean. If they had extended the collar then the lapel would have started further down and with a steeper angle. This would both allow breast pocket to show more, since now more than half is covered by the lapel, and the roll to end somewhere in between the 1st and 2nd button. As it is now the roll, which is also a rather faint roll, ends right on the 2nd button. To me this defeats the entire purpose of having a 3-roll-2 and it looks way less elegant. They tried to re-press the lapel but told me that they could not succeed. Is their tailor bad or is it really not possible to re-press the gorge? I know you can fix a previously properly rolled lapel that has slipped down with time, but can you fix one that was not made like that to begin with?

My alternative is returning it and going with Munro MTM but paying $2-300 more depending on fabric. Am I crazy for even considering paying this for a nicer looking lapel? It has no function whatsoever, it would purely be for the esthetic. It just feels like the "balance" is off when the lapel breaks further down making the lapel longer.

 

[breakaway01]

photos would really help here.

 

[Nomies]

photos would really help here.

Can't post pictures sadly, the jacket is with SuitSupply since they tried to fix the lapel. I never picked it up after they said they can't do it.

But lapel wise it looks pretty much like this, but the breast pocket is even more covered.

https://cdn.suitsupply.com/image/upload/b_rgb:efefef,bo_300px_solid_rgb:efefef,c_pad,w_2600/b_rgb:efefef,c_pad,dpr_1,w_1690,h_3042,f_auto,q_auto,fl_progressive/products/Jackets/default/Winter/C2121_51.jpg

 

[Nomies]

And this is what I want it to look like

 

[breakaway01]

I am not really seeing a problem with the lapel on your first photo. It is what most 3r2 jackets look like nowadays.

The lapels themselves seem to be fairly wide (which I like, BTW); not surprisingly, a wider lapel covers more of the breast pocket.

Your second photo is sometimes called a "3r2.5", at least here on SF, where the lapel break is between the top two buttons. It's hard to find a RTW jacket like that nowadays. Personally I prefer the elongated lapel line of the first jacket; it is more flattering on most bodies for the same reason that pinstripes on suits run vertically, not horizontally.

 

[Nomies]

I am not really seeing a problem with the lapel on your first photo. It is what most 3r2 jackets look like nowadays.

The lapels themselves seem to be fairly wide (which I like, BTW); not surprisingly, a wider lapel covers more of the breast pocket.

Your second photo is sometimes called a "3r2.5", at least here on SF, where the lapel break is between the top two buttons. It's hard to find a RTW jacket like that nowadays.

See the picture I posted above. That is an RTW jacket that I also own. Both have around 11,5cm lapel width, but as you see there's a huge difference with the breast pocket.

What I mean with balance is the overall proportion. I have fairly long legs, which looks even longer with high rise pants. But my jackets are also fairly long. I feel that, with the button stance being where it is, a longer lapel line throws off the proportions of torso and legs.

I also like how the middle button sits "undisturbed", it isn't pulled at by the lapel.

 

[breakaway01]

See the picture I posted above. That is an RTW jacket that I also own.

What I mean with balance is the overall proportion. I have fairly long legs, which looks even longer with high rise pants. But my jackets are also fairly long. I feel that, with the button stance being where it is, a longer lapel line throws off the proportions of torso and legs.

I also like how the middle button sits "undisturbed", it isn't pulled at by the lapel.

it's definitely a stylistic preference. I know the second jacket is RTW, but I'll maintain that it's not as easy to find jackets with that higher lapel roll.

You won't be able to press the first jacket to roll differently because where the lapel rolls is a function of how the lapel is constructed.

 

[breakaway01]

You may have some luck on Yoox -- I've seen 3r2.5 jackets there -- though their product photos are often terrible (e.g. they often button the top button, so the roll is difficult to discern) and measurements are almost nonexistent.

 

[Nomies]

it's definitely a stylistic preference. I know the second jacket is RTW, but I'll maintain that it's not as easy to find jackets with that higher lapel roll.

You won't be able to press the first jacket to roll differently because where the lapel rolls is a function of how the lapel is constructed.

Alright, thanks for confirming that you cannot reshape a lapel.

The jacket I made was in a green hopsack, so I intentionally went to the fitting meeting with another hopsack jacket to compare it as closely as possible, since it isn't fair to compare a stiffer fresco lapel to a super soft hopsack lapel. Maybe I just got my head stuck on one style, but it just felt wrong.

With the 3r2.5 I felt great and very premium. With the new SuitSupply 3r2 I felt budget and kinda crap. What is funny though, is in their system they call this 3r2.5.

You may have some luck on Yoox -- I've seen 3r2.5 jackets there -- though their product photos are often terrible (e.g. they often button the top button, so the roll is difficult to discern) and measurements are almost nonexistent.

I do not need it to be RTW, I'm fine going MTM because I specifically want green hopsack and also a heavier hopsack for year round, I was just curious if I'm too anal about the lapel since I'm considering paying $300 extra just to get this 3r2.5 lapel.

 

[breakaway01]

I was just curious if I'm too anal about the lapel since I'm considering paying $300 extra just to get this 3r2.5 lapel.

It’s not anal at all—but I would say that the first lapel is not “wrong”, it’s just that you prefer a different style of lapel. If you’re having a custom jacket made you have every right to specify this lapel style.

 

[Nomies]

You won't be able to press the first jacket to roll differently because where the lapel rolls is a function of how the lapel is constructed.

So whatever they do here, would not work on this jacket?

Permanent Style

How to correct a flattened lapel

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[breakaway01]

One last bit of unsolicited advice. I am not a tailor so I don’t know how one constructs a lapel to end up with a 3r2.5 versus 3r2 roll. I wouldn’t talk about the angle of the gorge seam or anything like that with your jacket maker. Just show them photos of what you want to achieve (or wear your jacket to your fitting) and let them worry about how to execute.

 

[breakaway01]

So whatever they do here, would not work on this jacket?

Permanent Style

How to correct a flattened lapel

www.permanentstyle.com

No—in that article they are removing an unwanted crease in the lapel to restore its intended roll. That’s different from trying to press the lapel into a different shape than its intended construction.

 

[Nomies]

One last bit of unsolicited advice. I am not a tailor so I don’t know how one constructs a lapel to end up with a 3r2.5 versus 3r2 roll. I wouldn’t talk about the angle of the gorge seam or anything like that with your jacket maker. Just show them photos of what you want to achieve (or wear your jacket to your fitting) and let them worry about how to execute.

This is good advice and I did this with SuitSupply. It is literally called 3r2.5 in their MTM program. I suppose they were just too eager to sell a jacket. Now they get to deal with a return that they cannot resell instead.

I want to like it, the price was very good for being full canvas (4 layers), VBC fabric, some handmade details like milanese buttonhole, but I have a feeling the lapel will annoy me every time I wear it.