Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Fuuma, Nov 14, 2010.
I think the green on Mallory is different shade of green then the army on cameraman.
Finally broke and put in an order for the DB in Army Harris 40's coat on End
enjoying NC enthusiasm on the thread, and i should likely post this in B&S, but i have a cameraman in navy from last years F/W collection in sz 48, worn once, just too small for me. any interest, please pm. btw, zissou, check your pm, just sent you one on the belt you sent me
I don't think that there is only one way to wear something, but I do feel that you can wreck something by trying to make it something it is not supposed to be. To me, a lot of Cabourn's stuff is like jeans. They should not be perfectly tailored. I suppose that mine is a reaction to the advice often dispensed in men's magazines to always get things tailored. That works for, well, tailored clothing. For some other styles, it just doesn't.
Please post pics!
I've to disagree, especially since NC's larger sizes are made for someone with a huge gut. At least my size 52 mallory was. It was fine around shoulders for me, but around a waist I would have to be 9 months pregnant to fill it in. Actually every jacket, shirt etc I've to tailor and take out lots of cloth from around the waist and then add darts on top of that.
Very nice Nigel Cabourn Hunting Jacket
Just bought this piece,
Size 52 and I really do like the colourway. Thank you everybody for the inspiration!
Will post pics on request...
Maybe you are not supposed to fill it, unless you are wearing 5 sweaters. Ever done any mountaineering? Ever see this picture:
I can *sort* of see taking some cloth out of the middle. Putting in darts? No. I mean, you can wear whatever you want, however you want. But I'm entitled to find certain ways of wearing something aesthetically unpleasing.
For me, part of the appeal of Nigel Cabourn are not just the materials and workmanship, but also the cuts. There are a billion designers (well, at least a few thousand, if you look just at Pitti Uomo) who will make a slim jacket. If you want a slimmed down Cabourn style jacket, you may as well pick one up from Penfield.
That could be said of any article of clothing, but what 'something is supposed to be' is not quite a fine line, in my opinion. You did say "that is the fit"...
Sure, it's all replicas of old mountaineering garb, but no one is going mountaineering in Cabourn. Garments needed to fit larger to allow for a wide range of movement. Watch The Wildest Dream, and you'll see Conrad Anker and his climbing partner freeze when they don replica clothing that Mallory and Irvine wore. I feel like you're saying 'Cabourn was meant for X', but X is no longer practical. Instead, we are supposed to look like we're going mountaineering in Cabourn even though we won't. That's no more appealing to me than someone looking like they commute to their office job on a steam locomotive.
Sure, you're entitled, but you also proclaimed that there's a predominant way that something should be worn, which is also subjective, and with which others are sure to disagree. I think there's a lot more that sets Cabourn apart from Penfield and others than just the cut. I agree that workmanship and materials are exemplary in Cabourn, so equating a slimmed Cabourn Jacket to on from Penfield doesn't add up.
When it arrives I will.
Looks good. Can you post the size and chest/waist measurements if you have time?
Re. Zissou's and LAGuy's comments - I think most of Nigel Cabourn's designs are designed to be worn slightly over-sized and look better that way. I don't see a problem with slight tailoring if you're thinner than average or shorter than average, but heavy alteration seems odd - maybe not quite as extreme as tailoring Yohji to be slim fitting though...
I agree completely with MoK. Sure, some tailoring should be allowed for, because people have different body shapes. But changing the shape drastically, to me, at least, makes little sense. It would be akin to trying to make a Huntsman suit look like a Rubinacci. I'm sure that if you had a competent tailor hack at it enough, you could do reasonably. But it would be much better for you to get the Rubinacci. Cabourn is not inexpensive. There are lots of alternatives, and with his popularity these days, even some of the top end Italian brands are copying his designs, but not his fits. So it's not even as if you can't get similar quality either.
Maybe I'm jaded. But I'd much rather see "interesting" than "perfect fit", 9 times out of 10.
Fair point. I think I'm far less obsessed with the 'perfect fit' than in my early days on here. That said, it can be a little difficult for me to find things that fit reasonably well. There's a certain range of fit with which I'm satisfied, and I simply won't wear anything outside of that, regardless of the original context of a garment.
I don't know that I've seen any Cabourn that has been drastically altered, except for that one cameraman that was shortened quite a bit. One thing that appeals to me about Cabourn is the fact that it can fit a fairly wide range of body types with, at most, a little alteration.
[ATTACHMENT=1934]photo-1.JPG (2,829k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]
CABOURN MAINLINE JACKET - Not Sure What Model it is. But Served me Well Tonight. =)
I would stick with a 50. I wear the cameraman in 50 (perfect fit) and actually bought the Mallory in 52. The 50 in Mallory was very fitted and looked great, except that the sleeves were a tad short and I also wanted to wear the vest with it. The 52 works well in that sense. I also wanted to have the option to hand wash it down the road, which shrinks it a tad. http://www.cabourn.com/blog/?p=749
I'm 6' 190lbs and a 39 chest.
Hope that helps.
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