Nigel Cabourn

[Phil McCrackin]

Top post Blaugrana , I had the Camo Mountain in a 54 and it just didn't fit so sadly passed on it , the. Cameraman went back as the material wasn't for me at such a price , piece I'd love is the cold weather taffy on ushowu , blue is lovely colour , and marked down well , but when I went to check out had to add a further 21% I think it was so took price up , and wasn't prepared to pay that , this seasons taffy certainly does appeal to me ..

 

[Scott Stevens]

What do you think it's made of? Polyester?

Are you implying a Donegal wool hand-framed roll neck is worth £365? I like the flecks in Donegal wool, I have used it in garments I have had made, but it's not that expensive even when buying in small quantities. You can buy the finest Donegal wool for one jumper for £60-80.

The roll neck will be hand-framed. Anderson hand-framed knits are £85.That's a huge mark up, as you would expect from Cabourn.

You could source your own Donegal wool and get one hand-knitted. It would still be cheaper.

 

[Eric Gill Sans]



Well, so much for being a clever investigator... I see on http://cabournlondonstore.com/ now that the address will be 28 Henrietta Street, and über-sleuth me was looking at 16, 6 doors along.

The point that there was no sign of it to be seen still stands though! Which is a little strange considering the website lists opening hours and all.

Or maybe I was just totally blind to it?

Drew tweeted me that they are aiming for the 25th September opening and I came across a tweet from a shop fitting contractor/developer who was on site working on the new Nigel Cabourn store

 

[Eric Gill Sans]



I hadn't inspected the pictures, it just doesn't make sense.  I see what you're referring to, but I'd say that clearly looks like it could/should be cut when you decide to wear it or more likely that it buttons down.  Either way I'd be shocked if it was sewn down permanently.

Definitely looks like temporary tack stitching to me to keep its shape prior to being worn

The stitching is not finished off on the inside - the photos show strands sticking out from the inside.

It would be up the owner whether to keep the stitching in place or not but looking at Nigel's photographs I think it looks better with the collar unpicked and either out with the top button undone or turned up to keep the chill off the neck or pose 'a la Cantona style' which is the trad Donkey jacket style look.

 

[zissou]

About the only thing that strikes me this fall is the farm pant, which I think looks great. Well, and I'd love an indigo Everest parka. But, I could go on a trip around the world for that price...

 

[buzzlulu]

Blaugrana and Eric

Thank you for the feedback and followup on the Donkey jacket. I spoke with the Bureau Belfast this morning and they confirmed that the stitching holding the collar down could be removed. Unfortunately they no longer had a size 50. They have had an incredible sell through on this jacket even though it has only been in the shop for one week. Since I did not even realize they had it I already had been in contact with SuperDenim over the weekend. I was ready to order the jacket Sunday - until my concerns came up re the collar - thus the reason for my post.
A very happy ending was had as today I ordered the size 50 from SuperDenim. Obviously someone else was interested as the size 46 is also gone. This piece seems to be an early winner for Cabourn. I hope that I like it.....and it fits. I am confident. I watched Cabourn in 2010 and 2011 and finally took the plunge in AW12 with a Crazy Mallory and Crazy Cameraman. A Camo Notch Lapel jacket followed in SS13. I am consistently a size 50 in both jackets however I tried on both a 50 and 52 in the Crazy Cameraman and decided to size up to the 52 in order to allow a sweater (or even my Mallory) to be worn underneath. While the online measurements posted by Bureau Belfast and Superdenim differ from each other both consistently seem to indicate that the Donkey is a "full" fitting coat. I am going to keep my fingers crossed.

Blaugrana

It looks like you have confirmed my suspicions that this is the exact same coat as the Bowers Deck coat. What size is your tagged version? How would you describe the fit i.e. is it true to size or generous? Can a sweater be worn underneath? I can understand why this years version has been so successful. For the same price Cabourn has replaced the waxed panels with real leather - an extremely classy look. Lets hope it works out for me.

Your piece by piece commentary was an entertaining read and I can understand some of the points you made. YOOX had a SS13 orange Ventile aircraft jacket on closeout (I was looking at it most of the spring at full price) and I purchased it at half off. It went back. Many of the same reasons you had with some of your items. The orange color was muted and faded out and the piece simply did not look the part of a $1k jacket. Some of these pieces tread a fine line. My Crazy Mallory and Cameraman both definitely look the part - vibrant and rich looking and oozing class and quality of materials. The orange Ventile simply did not - much as you found with some of your pieces.

PS you mentioned three online shops with the Filson collaboration. I know of Context and Normandy - the third? Great looking collection.

What are peoples thoughts on the 4 pocket hooded coat in Context's email. I find it drop dead gorgeous.....however I wonder if it is too similar to my Crazy Cameraman (with green Macintosh upper)

 

[Bryer Leather]

The reinforced shoulders are definitely a value add. Thanks!

 

[zissou]

I walked all over Mexico City in my Boseys last week. I liked them so much that I picked up another pair on Ebay just now. I had to pay full retail, essentially, but got my first pair at half price.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

Top post Blaugrana , I had the Camo Mountain in a 54 and it just didn't fit so sadly passed on it , the. Cameraman went back as the material wasn't for me at such a price , piece I'd love is the cold weather taffy on ushowu , blue is lovely colour , and marked down well , but when I went to check out had to add a further 21% I think it was so took price up , and wasn't prepared to pay that , this seasons taffy certainly does appeal to me ..

Too bad the Mountain Parka didn't work. I really do love the jacket. In fact I'm hoping it comes back in another color next season, though not entirely because I do like that it's a unique piece at this point that hasn't been done before.

Yeah, the Cameraman just... It's really that PU upper that killed it for me. Again, still somewhat open to it, but I'm not thinking about it all day long so we'll see if one pops up in the future.

Taffy? You mean the Cold Weather Parka? Parka looks fine, but I don't like that "furry" lining. Now when I look at UshowU's clearance I'm drawn to the women's Cameraman. I also keep looking at that Hunting Jacket and shaking my head that it's still sitting there. I love mine and it looks great on.

Definitely looks like temporary tack stitching to me to keep its shape prior to being worn

The stitching is not finished off on the inside - the photos show strands sticking out from the inside.

It would be up the owner whether to keep the stitching in place or not but looking at Nigel's photographs I think it looks better with the collar unpicked and either out with the top button undone or turned up to keep the chill off the neck or pose 'a la Cantona style' which is the trad Donkey jacket style look.

Yeah, the strands of thread should have been a big sign it wasn't a button. Cabourn buttons in my experience are all reinforced or butcher buttons.

Blaugrana and Eric

Thank you for the feedback and followup on the Donkey jacket. I spoke with the Bureau Belfast this morning and they confirmed that the stitching holding the collar down could be removed. Unfortunately they no longer had a size 50. They have had an incredible sell through on this jacket even though it has only been in the shop for one week. Since I did not even realize they had it I already had been in contact with SuperDenim over the weekend. I was ready to order the jacket Sunday - until my concerns came up re the collar - thus the reason for my post.
A very happy ending was had as today I ordered the size 50 from SuperDenim. Obviously someone else was interested as the size 46 is also gone. This piece seems to be an early winner for Cabourn. I hope that I like it.....and it fits. I am confident. I watched Cabourn in 2010 and 2011 and finally took the plunge in AW12 with a Crazy Mallory and Crazy Cameraman. A Camo Notch Lapel jacket followed in SS13. I am consistently a size 50 in both jackets however I tried on both a 50 and 52 in the Crazy Cameraman and decided to size up to the 52 in order to allow a sweater (or even my Mallory) to be worn underneath. While the online measurements posted by Bureau Belfast and Superdenim differ from each other both consistently seem to indicate that the Donkey is a "full" fitting coat. I am going to keep my fingers crossed.

Blaugrana

It looks like you have confirmed my suspicions that this is the exact same coat as the Bowers Deck coat. What size is your tagged version? How would you describe the fit i.e. is it true to size or generous? Can a sweater be worn underneath? I can understand why this years version has been so successful. For the same price Cabourn has replaced the waxed panels with real leather - an extremely classy look. Lets hope it works out for me.

Your piece by piece commentary was an entertaining read and I can understand some of the points you made. YOOX had a SS13 orange Ventile aircraft jacket on closeout (I was looking at it most of the spring at full price) and I purchased it at half off. It went back. Many of the same reasons you had with some of your items. The orange color was muted and faded out and the piece simply did not look the part of a $1k jacket. Some of these pieces tread a fine line. My Crazy Mallory and Cameraman both definitely look the part - vibrant and rich looking and oozing class and quality of materials. The orange Ventile simply did not - much as you found with some of your pieces.

PS you mentioned three online shops with the Filson collaboration. I know of Context and Normandy - the third? Great looking collection.

What are peoples thoughts on the 4 pocket hooded coat in Context's email. I find it drop dead gorgeous.....however I wonder if it is too similar to my Crazy Cameraman (with green Macintosh upper)

I forgot to mention that another difference between the Donkey and the Bowers are the front pockets. The Bowers has waxed pockets as well. Mine is a 50. It's 22.5" pit to pit. I have a 43" chest and it fits fine. Sort out of bows out in the front and back from the chest down. I could do a thinner sweater, maybe even a medium weight sweater, but the fit at armhole would concern me. Again, mine hasn't been worn and still has the tags on it. I also have the limited edition duffle coat from that collection as well and that is definitely a bit roomier. As for the panels, I sort of prefer the waxed ones. Leather seems a bit much to me, but the I prefer the collar on the Donkey jacket. Anyway, glad you were able to get one. I'll be curious to hear your thoughts when it comes in.

I have that SS13 Aircraft Jacket. I have it in a few colors in fact. I like it. Color is muted, but I wouldn't say faded like the Mountain Parka. I even hesitate to say faded on the Mountain Parka, but it sort of is where the coat has wrinkling. It's minor and I'm sure it's intended to wear that way over time. In fact the leather on the hood pull tabs and the zipper pull is a bit worn looking, again something I'd bet is intentional.

Other shop with the Filson collaboration was in Australia. Can't remember the name as I was just looking at photos and didn't recognize the shop name. As for the jacket in the email, I like it, but it's sold out. I think it's different enough from the jackets you like, but I have an outerwear obsession so you might want to solicit other opinions.

 

[Phil McCrackin]

Cold weather / taffy , same one ..
Lovely in that blue ushowu have ..
They used to run a code so you avoid 21% added on at the end , otherwise what's the point in buying items in sale ..
The taffy twist has caught my eye ..

 

[WDD_Blog]

Now when I look at UshowU's clearance I'm drawn to the women's Cameraman.

I'll go one further and say that ALL the women's stuff at USHOWU looks absolutely fantastic. Almost as if the designs have been injected with some new vitality.

I also see they have the crazy Mallory in blue, which I hadn't noticed yet. Then again, I've really not been paying attention.

 

[Arizor]

That Indigo Mallory is screaming my name... Must resist...

 

[buzzlulu]



I have an outerwear obsession so you might want to solicit other opinions.  

Don't we all

Even if I am repeating myself I must say that the Filson collaboration is SPECTACULAR. Great for Filson and great for Cabourn.

 

[buzzlulu]

Further kudos to the new Cabourn website. Over the weekend I emailed my questions re the Donkey Jacket and I received a very thorough and nice reply this morning.

 

[Eric Gill Sans]



Further kudos to the new Cabourn website.  Over the weekend I emailed my questions re the Donkey Jacket and I received a very thorough and nice reply this morning.

Which is????

I'm dying to know