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Nigel Cabourn

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Fuuma, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. Werder

    Werder Active Member

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    I tend to agree on the Mallory, but may i ask why you dont like the jacket? :)
     
  2. irbe

    irbe Senior member

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    The colours don't work on the jacket....
     
  3. PhilVo

    PhilVo Senior member

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    Sorry, what jacket?
     
  4. Phil McCrackin

    Phil McCrackin Senior member

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    Pesky Japanese get all the good stuff
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Morph

    Morph Well-Known Member

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  6. Grove

    Grove Senior member

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    Last edited: Mar 2, 2015
  7. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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  8. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    FP logo ruins everything IMO.
     
  9. Werder

    Werder Active Member

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    Totally agree! the logo ruins it. Is it all made in china?
     
  10. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

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    No way. Authentic is always better than Mainline. Mainline has some nice pieces from time to time, but there's no comparison really.
     
  11. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

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    So I took my final delivery, or what I expect will be the final delivery, of the AW14 Cabourn styles I wanted. I actually missed out on a few, one of which I still have an eye on, but the prices just weren't right and I already have those (and Cabourn in general covered).

    So I'll just take it piece by piece. Overall though I have to say that I was a big fan of AW14. I remember seeing some of the "leaked" photos months and months ago and thinking "I'm not too chuffed about this collection." Well after they hit the shops and I got to see and read up on the various styles I quickly became a fan. As a collection I'd say it's one of the strongest Cabourn collections, if not the strongest, I've seen since I discovered the brand in Spring of 2012. Interestingly enough I actually didn't buy/try the classics this past season as I have in past seasons. This season I actually went for a different style or two that I either didn't yet have or hadn't yet tried. It wasn't necessarily intentional, but I really like what I've kept. You'll have to excuse the length of the post:


    Filson x Cabourn Clip Coat - The coat stands up on it's own. Literally. There are photos of the jacket actually standing up on the grand. That's how stiff and thick this coat is. There's more to this coat though. It is a very substantial piece. I'll start off by saying that it looks more Filson than Cabourn. That said Nigel's influence is there with the clips alone. On top of that it's a very vintage workwear looking piece. I said it's substantial and it definitely weighs a fair amount. If you try it on with just a t-shirt underneath you can still feel it after you've take it off. The fabrication is heavy 16oz beeswaxed tan cotton. It's also lined in both the body and the sleeves with 18oz "Seattle" wool in a nice hunter green color. The same wool can be seen on the outer collar as the collar is lined. The coat looks somewhat like a fireman's coat, in fact it has a vintage military fireman look to it if there was such a thing. The fit is quite oversized the whole way round, from the chest to the body to the sleeves. I personally still went true to size, but I've read of others sizing down one size. It can look a bit big one too and the oversized collar, which I like, can add to this. The construction is excellent. I've already mentioned the weight and the materials used. The clips are brass and are very well secured to the coat. As was noted months ago they might be a bit fussy for some, like my Dad (read below for more on him :) ), but I can work them pretty well. The buttons are I believe horn and are very nice. There's also a detachable storm flap that attachs inside the placket that is the same heavy waxed cotton with wool lining as the jacket itself. The chest pockets are lined and have bridle leather at the edges making them virtually rip proof assuming you'd ever wear through that heavy cotton. There are lower flap pockets that are quite deep and while I have an iPad 2 I would think they're deep enough assuming they're wide enough for one. Both sets of pockets are lined as well, though not with the same wool that lines the rest of the coat but rather a softer brushed cotton. Still a nice detail. The cuffs are button cuffs which are in my opinion a necessary feature considering the width of the cuffs, though I will not likely be using them. Overall this a great coat. It's not the best coat of this collection, but there's nothing I would change on it apart from the one clip that says "Filson" on it. I would definitely recommend it if you're considering it and can actually find one.

    Filson x Cabourn Work Cape - Once again a very Filson looking jacket, but with Cabourn's fingerprints all over it. Yet another very substantial piece as it's a combination of 16 oz waxed cotton and 180z "Seattle" wool. It has the styling of a cape jacket, but this isn't like your daddy's cape jacket. It's striking as the waxed cotton on both colorways is a two-tone as some of the pockets are contrasting in color. In fact in the brown it can almost look burgundy. The fit is like the Clip Coat in that's it runs large. I tried sizing down but I felt true to size was the best way to go. It's got the same brass clips as the Clip Coat which coupled with the lower horn buttons give a very Cabourn look and a very unique cape jacket look. Think Cabourn Cameraman/Rangoon, but Filson's version. The collar is a nice looking corduroy lined. The draw cords are waxed with metal clips at the end and small leather cord locks. Again, not Cabourn but they look nice. The hood is detachable, but I don't know why anyone would do that. Why? The wool lining. The brown color has Filson's version of the iconic red and black wool plaid. The hood is just the tip of that iceberg though. The wool is a liner at the back of the jacket only, but it runs down the outside all the way from under the arm down to the bottom hem and then across the bottom hem at the back. The cuffs are also the same wool. What this means are just hints of the plaid or green wool, but a great styling detail that on top of everything else really makes this coat. Oh, and there's a large poacher pocket at the back too. While those positives add up to a ton as regards this jacket, it's could be better. Again, the "Filson" on the second from top clip isn't necessary. That's of course minor. What I would have liked was a lined sleeve and the front of the jacket being lined as will. Even in cotton a lining should be there, but really it should have been lined in wool. And don't get me wrong here. In this case I'd even agree to marking up the price for adding the lining. Also, the pockets should have been lined even in just the same lining used on the clip jacket. So what's the verdict? This jacket is a winner. It's an iconic jacket that is both Filson and Cabourn at the same time. I personally am starting to think that Nigel is getting a bit too crazy with the collaborations, but I love this collaboration and this jacket is the flagship. They may sound a bit much, but it's a historic piece for Filson and yet another smart move by Filson's new management in a string of smart moves and I can't wait for the next Filson x Cabourn release. If you're able to score this jacket I would definitely grab one and if you can get a good sale price like I did then jump on it. I even grabbed one for my Dad for Christmas and he loves it.

    Medical Shirt - I actually ordered a couple of those, both the blue/red check and the "sky blue" color. I'd already tried the oxford shirt and so I thought I'd love this one. While they were on their way to me I was discussing them with someone on here (my apologies for forgetting with whom I was PMing, but I've been PMing a lot in the last month) and they had me a bit worried about the fit. I'd done my research with online size charts, but it still sounded like they'd be snug. Well much to my surprise the shirts fit well. They were definitely a bit trimmer by Cabourn standards, but I felt they were quite flattering. On top of that they were a nice and relatively dense oxford cloth fabric. A bit of a sheen to them, but not too much. So far so good. However there was one big issue I had with them. While I had done my homework on the fist as I noted, that was in regards to the chest measurements. Where the shirt stopped working for me was in the length. Much like the SS14 Armor Lux collab henley, this Medical Shirt was incredibly long. At least two inches longer than I'd want a woven shirt being 5'10". That said I've always felt that at 5'10" a size 48 might be more ideal in terms of length with most Cabourn, but generally 50s have been great for me. Anyway, I'm sure the length was quite intentional and likely works really well untucked for someone notably taller or tucked in for someone who wears Cabourn or Cabournesque trousers. For me though it was a deal-breaker and I decided to pass. It's unfortunate too because both of the above colorways were going to be Spring shirts for me and I was going to grab a black one as well. At the end of the day I'd recommend the shirt if the fit works for you.

    Zip Through Cardigan - I wasn't chomping at the bit to get this sweater. For me it's rather basic looking in that you can get a similar sweater from a lot of other designers. More than that though I tried a previous season's Fairisle V Neck that I got for a song on Yoox and it was quite underwhelming. That sweater did not feel great in terms of the wool and the fit was absolutely ridiculous. So my expectation of this sweater was a better fit but with underwhelming fabrication. For me Inverallans are the best the sweaters you can get and the only sweater I know fits me that I'm interested in. After taking the cardigan out of the package I quickly knew that it was a nicer sweater than the fairisles are. It was folded and must have been 7 inches deep the fabric is so thick and substantial. It had one of the smaller Ri Ri zippers. It was a two-way zipper too, in my opinion a must for such a sweater and any outerwear when you're paying this much. In this case the zipper was of use too as the length was just a smidge longer than I would have liked, but that most certainly wasn't a deal breaker. I was confident in the fit too since the pit to pit measurement, despite some discrepancies out there, seemed spot on. Turns out I was right, about the pit to pit (and consequently disagree with Cabourn's own measurement on the pit to pit). However like every other ribbed sweater I've ever tried, it was fitted. A bit too much for my taste, though I think I've slimmed down some since then and wouldn't mind a second try of one. So yes, I returned it, however I'd recommend it. I still prefer Inverallans, but this was a substantial piece. I liked the weight and the color and very nearly the fit. I will say that it will pill, like every other sweater made of such materials, but exactly how much I don't know. Still I'd recommend it and think it's a nice piece.

    Oxford Shirt - This was another piece that I was skeptical about. In fact I've considered ordering an oxford or two in the past, but I was always worried the fit wouldn't work and they'd be too snug. I decided that I was going to try one this season though. So when they hit the sale price at one of the shops I was watching I decided to take a punt and ordered both the navy and the olive. Receiving them I was initially very pleased. The fabric was quite thick and more dense than the J Crew oxfords I have (which I have to say are nice as well). I like the details too including the look of the bottom third of the placket and the hidden button down collar. The buttons seem nice, but I rather prefer J Crew's buttons. I really like the colors and while they work for AW, I was actually considering wearing them during the Spring. Still the proof wouldn't be in the pudding but rather the fit for me. Fortunately the fit was pretty much spot on. The chest fit really well and the length is fine. The shirt looks good tucked in too, however with the detailing of the placket I plan on wearing them un-tucked. The only concern I have is that they may shrink in the wash. I don't think they will, but if they do they probably wouldn't work anymore. Anyway, I'd definitely recommend that you grab an oxford at some point and I definitely regret not getting a few of the past incarnations that have been done. I did grab one of the novelty "crazy" oxfords from Corniche and another one from Rakuten. I also have some of the past solid colors on the way as well, but I'll be keeping an eye out for some of the past novelty oxfords.

    Work Vest - I picked up the work vest in AW13 which I thought was a cool piece. I'm not the biggest fan of vests or waistcoats in that I'm more broad in the chest and shoulders and I think they make me look top heavy. Still as outwear piece I find I can make them work better and I liked the AW13 version as such an option. The problem is I felt that it was too fitted in my usual size 50. When one in a 52 popped up on eBay back this last Fall I was tempted to get it. I decided to pass though as I preferred the AW14 version. The AW14 version is indeed better too. The fit I'm assuming is the same. I find it too fitted in the chest in my size 50, but the 52 is fine here. It does get more relaxed as you go to the waist though and if I keep I'll have to have a tailor take in a bit. The issue with that will be the pockets and there is only so much room you can take it in as a result on top of that fact that the front pockets would have to be partially unattached to take it in. As for the fit, I found that the 52 does fit into a 50 Aircraft Jacket. Anyway, the pockets are what makes this vest. Sure it's Harris Tweed, and a nice herringbone tweed at that. On top of that it has the horn buttons. On thing that's interesting though is the lining "tape" if you will on the inside of the placket all the way around the neck and down the other side. It's also on the inside of the arm holes. What nice about this is it reinforces all those areas. The thing I question though is that the cotton is oilcloth coated and I'd be worried it might "stain" a shirt or something I'm wearing underneath. The Work Vest, like last year's version, is meant in part to be attached to the Aircraft Jacket as a liner. That said it has snap pieces that snap right into the Aircraft Jacket. I don't think they ruin the look of wearing the vest on it's own, but that'll be a personal preference.

    Canadian Jacket - This was I believe the third season in a row that they did the Canadian Jacket. AW13 was... well for me "tragic" looking considering the materials used. Didn't really look very Cabourn to me. SS14 looked more promising but at the time I preferred other styles from that collection (plenty to choose from in that collection by the way) and I actually thought it was a bit overrated here. AW14 came out and I wasn't too chuffed about it yet again. Now if I recall correctly when they were showing the AW14 collection about a year or so back they did the jacket in a different pattern and color. Well when this one went to half off, less discount code and less VAT again I decided to give it a shot. It had been growing on me a bit too. It look out of place compared to the rest of the collection, which isn't unusual, but I rather saw it as a potential SS piece. When the parcel came I was pleasantly surprised. In terms of the fit I'd been curious about the length and if I'd considering it too short. While it runs shorter it's most certainly not a deal breaker. I also like the oversized fit of the jacket. It's reminiscent of the Aircraft Jacket in that regard, but different. I was expecting to dislike the angled zipper, but it's really not an issue for me unless fully zipped. I like the collar down a bit and folded over. It's obviously waxed. It's more of a medium wax I'd say. Jacket has some nice styling details like the waxed drawcords, top two button loops, Ri Ri zip and oversized horn buttons. In fact the oversized horn buttons are a really smart addition and add to the look of the jacket. The pockets are oversized as well, another nice styling feature. The jacket is lined with an oxfordesque lining. The pattern of the lining is nice, though I wouldn't mind seeing a solid color. There are some misses though. For starters the pictures from the AW14 shoot and the ones on Cabourn's site show the jacket as having a leather pull cord on the zippers. I've handled two of the Canadian Jacket in person and neither had the pull cords. On top of that the drawcords do not have the metal clips at the end. Again Cabourn's own photos show this and neither of the jackets I handled had them. This is not the only jacket this has happened with either, but more on that later. And on top of that, there were little white marks at the corner of the upper inner corner of the pocket. Again, I've noticed this on other jackets and more on this later. I just don't know why. Is it the spot they were supposed to sew that corner down, IE a marker of some sort? Anyway, on this jacket with the wax I've largely got rid of it and no one would notice. I will be reaching out to Cabourn directly about this and see what they say. Another miss for me was the lack of a lining in the pockets. At the full retail this would be an expectation of mine and surely wouldn't have added a lot to the cost. Also I would have liked a button cuff which while entirely unnecessary in my opinion it would have been another nice detail considering the cost. Only other thing I'll add is that the tab on the back is perhaps unnecessary and I wouldn't want to see it, but the hood down it's covered entirely and it's a nice feature to just grab the jacket with. Overall I'd recommend the jacket at the sale price and I look forward to wearing it for Spring.

    Cold Weather Parka - I actually have a ventile parka from... AW12? that is pretty similar to this style. I did try an actual CWP back in SS14. I decided to pass on the SS14 version, but was very excited about the AW14 version. It came in two colorways, an army green and a black, both the new "twist" variety. I would call the black a twist so much though. The army has a noticeable two-tone color to it, but the black's either very subtle or non-existent. Also, the army is NOT the rustic which the oilcloth Everest came in. Anyway, I'm a big fan of this jacket. The oilcloth jackets in general this year seem great (I didn't try the Everest, but I was tempted) and this was no exception. It's got a nice somewhat heavy weight to it. The look is the classic CWP, just in the two-tone "twist" oilcloth cotton. This essentialy makes it look like a vintage piece from back in the day, IE the real mccoy if you will. Adding to that you've deadstock WWII wool lining (though the sleeves are lined in cotton, but at least they're lined) and it's like you've got some military issue WWII jacket. Of course the other hallmarks are there as well. The belt at the waist, which unlike the ventile version I have, is appropriately on the outside. The wood pull cords are the wood throat latch are there. The pockets are quite large and I like how they fold over. There's also a chest pocket (map pocket?). The buttons are horn and there are a lot of them. The cuffs are button cuffs with horn buttons again. The hood is adjustable, albeit unnecessarily so. I has a two-way Ri Ri zipper with a fabric and wood cord pull. The length at the back is adjustable like the classic CWP, though with the coat being oilcloth one may not want to take advantage of such an option unless they won't be sitting down. Just overall some great details. Of course there are few misses or things I'd change. For the price point and considering it's oilcloth, the pockets should have been lined with the deadstock wool. Also the zipper pull should have been leather with the wood in my humble opinion. I think it would have suited the look of the coat much more. Finally, the zipper itself can be bit difficult to get going. Now I very good with zippers (don't laugh) and I just shake my head when my Dad can't work his zipper on the Barbour I got him (proceed to laugh again), so it's not me. It's not too bad and works great one you get it going, but it shouldn't be this difficult. That's really it though and none of them are deal breakers. This a great jacket has to be one of the best pieces of AW14 and probably the best CWP Cabourn or anyone else for that matter has ever done. I'd highly recommend it in either colorway.

    Aircraft Jacket - So I have my fair share of Aicraft Jackets including multiples from SS13 and the navy version with the vest from AW13. I've never worn the AW13 version though and will likely be selling it soon. Either way I was definitely interested in this jacket from the beginning. The navy in particular caught my eye, though I'm a sucker for navy, but even the tan looked nice. However the navy seemed to sell out everywhere fairly quickly while the tan didn't. I was able to track down a navy as recently as two weeks ago though which I didn't think I'd be able to do much less get it at that sort of sale price. As for the details, it's basic fabrication is much like that of the Cold Weather Parka. It's a sturdy and heavy oilcloth cotton. The jacket is definitely heavy, but in a good way. Also like the CWP it's also lined with the same deadstock WWII wool lining (including the sleeves this time). Again, this makes it's look the real mccoy, a vintage WWII military issue piece. The cut is much like the AW13, SS13 and pretty much every other Aircraft Jacket I've tried. However it just doesn't feel quite as boxy. I think the wool lining factors in here, but it's still a boxy cut. I wore one today with a heavy cotton sweater over a woven and it fit great. I couldn't layer any more onto that, but I wouldn't want to anyway. Also, I would say that the Work Vest isn't necessary for layering and likely wouldn't work for anything thicker than a woven or a thinner sweater. You've got great details here as expected. First and foremost the pockets. I love the oversized pockets. I love my SS13 Aircraft Jackets, but the pockets now are the best yet. They feel heavy duty/sturdy and have some heavy duty snaps for the closure. They're really roomy too and I love it when they billow out. If you don't want them to billow out too much though you can actually snap them at the bottom of the outer portion of pocket to the jacket. Plenty of room for your phablet I'm sure. The buttons are horn and it's got a two-way Ri Ri zipper. The cuffs are button cuffs with two smaller horn buttons. The buttons themselves match the coat, IE navy with the navy version. The draw cords, both at the hood and the waist, are standard with these great aged looking leather cord locks. The hood is sheepskin lined with the little brim at the front of it and I love the double buttons at the throat. Cabourn.com says the hood is "close fitting" and I would say it is which even when down can feel... very close. Inside you've got a number of snap pieces so that you can snap in the Work Vest if you so choose. All of that said, this jacket does have a few issues for me. For starters, once again, there is not a pull cord on the zipper. The zipper has a serious issue which I'll mention in a moment, which would render this somewhat unnecessary, but again I think it would look great and considering the price here it should be there. Also, once again, the draw cords do not have the metal clip on the end and once again the Cabourn site has them in their photos. The wool lining on all three of the jackets I handled has some discoloration spots. The wool lining is tan and the spot are a pink/orange hue. They are fairly subtle and possibly unnoticeable, but I do see them. I think it must be the oil somewhow, but it's there and I got the three jackets from two different sources. So more issues to reach out to Cabourn about, though in the case of the spots it'll be more a query as I don't see it being a deal breaker. Still it's disappointing. The biggest issue though is the zipper. The zipper, as on the Canadian Jacket and the CWP, is a smaller sized zipper. I don't mind that at all and it's the broad arrow zipper which is cool. However the pull gets sideways rather easy. I don't mind that so much. The issue though is that it's very difficult to get started. As I noted with the CWP, I'm good with zippers and so I have the "touch" to get it going, but I would think someone like my Dad would never get it going and had they a short fuse (which my Dad fortunately doesn't have) would go ballistic. It's notably more difficult than the CWP and I'd go so far as to say it's faulty even though it works once you get it. And of course once you get it it's easy, but it shouldn't be that difficult in the first place. So that leaves with my the verdict. My verdict is that this is an iconic Cabourn jacket and probably the best Aircraft Jacket he's ever done. It's great in both colors, but if you're fortunate enough to get a navy then you've got a jacket that will be a mantique in the future. It's another example of what I love about Cabourn and what he does which is to make a vintage looking, military inspired piece that isn't an exact copy of an original but rather a design of his own.


    Again, you'll have to excuse the length of this post. At the end of the day though Cabourn has a ton of great details and there's a lot to cover. I'd love to get other people's opinions on any of the above as well. Overall though I will say that AW14 was a great season for Cabourn and one of his best ever from what I can tell.
     
    3 people like this.
  12. irbe

    irbe Senior member

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    great reviews
     
  13. Werder

    Werder Active Member

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    Hi

    Do anyone here have any experience with the Munson Boot(Red Wing collab)?

    Its truly a beautiful boot but i had big problems with them regarding that they color my socks after using them(also when wearing perfectly dry socks). This "leather" oil that they are using do also smell very bad.
     
  14. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    Agree - great post and review

    Thanks for taking the time to write it
     
  15. wms68

    wms68 Well-Known Member

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    The Mainline Button Down Oxfords are fantastic shirts, definitely better than the Authentic equivalent. I have quite a few of them and they are possibly the finest shirts I have ever owned and age fantastically, every year I try to pick more of them up.
    The Authentic line version are very nice too, but the Japanese line buttons, button placement, finish is just that bit better.

    .
     
  16. cold war painter

    cold war painter Senior member

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    Thanks for your thoughts Blaugrana.

    I have that AW13 navy aircraft jacket w vest, and it's one of my most favourite pieces. I have to agree on the zip though, it is a bit of a handful sometimes.
     
  17. ike_hiking_boots

    ike_hiking_boots Senior member

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    It doesn't matter how much of a bargain a garment is, if it's faulty, which IMO the zipper is on this jacket, it's not worth a bean of your money. Cabourn at Sale, unless you managed to find it at a serious discount, is not a bargain. If you love the jacket that much find a good tailor and get the zip replaced.
     
  18. gus49

    gus49 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Seeing as I have the Clip coat and Zip Cardigan..the thing with stamping Filson is fine, but the antiquing process has left a little line mark along the way. Does anyone know how these brass clips are made?

    cheers
     
  19. gus49

    gus49 Well-Known Member

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    ya, the line through the O kind of annoyed me...ridiculous really.
    In the interests of privacy I’m headless, looking better than I thought.

    gus
     

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