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Nigel Cabourn

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Fuuma, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. volatile

    volatile Senior member

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    LOL @ jet.

    I feel like his stuff is priced at the high end for "workwear." For someone who purchases Junya or MMM, then yes--it is priced reasonably. For someone who purchases EG, WWM and similar brands--it is priced pretty high.

    His flannels are $400+....although I suppose they are "reversible" so you are getting 2 for the price of 1 [​IMG]


    SuperDenim.co.uk have major sales on Cabourn stuff... I picked up an AW09 reversible tanker jacket that retailed for £450 for £100, and a pair of the ARN Mercantile pants for £70 recently...
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    LOL @ jet.

    I feel like his stuff is priced at the high end for "workwear." For someone who purchases Junya or MMM, then yes--it is priced reasonably. For someone who purchases EG, WWM and similar brands--it is priced pretty high.

    His flannels are $400+....although I suppose they are "reversible" so you are getting 2 for the price of 1 [​IMG]


    I'm so sick of people calling everything with a heritage bent "workwear". That's just ignorance. Cabourn stuff is militaria and sports gear. This season, whatever was not naval gear (his backbone) was based on early mountaineering clothing.

    While I'm at it, Woolrich Woolen Mills /= workwear. It's based on outdoors and hunting clothing. These days, Engineered Garments /= workwear. It's mostly preppy staples with a good deal of functional clothing, but it is not "workwear" per se. And many of those English heritage brands are based on hunting clothing. Definitely not workwear. Post O'Alls is workwear.
     
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  3. adamha21

    adamha21 Senior member

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    No, I agree with you. Which is why I put the "workwear" in quotes. I was using that term very loosely.

    I suppose what I should have said is that for brands that are often found in the same retail places (EG, WWM, etc.)--Nigel Cabourn's price point is on the high end.
     
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    No, I agree with you. Which is why I put the "workwear" in quotes. I was using that term very loosely.

    I suppose what I should have said is that for brands that are often found in the same retail places (EG, WWM, etc.)--Nigel Cabourn's price point is on the high end.


    Cabourn is also often sold alongside Belstaff and Barbour Tokito (about the same pricepoints) and CP Company (higher pricepoint). And in some cases, it sits alongside Dries van Noten, Martin Margiela, and Junya Watanabe. The placement within the lineup really depends on the individual stockist.
     
  5. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    Nigel Cabourn is, hands down, my favorite designer these days. Official site Japanese site Here are all of the online stocklists that I know of: NA: Opening Ceremony Inventory Blackbird Unionmade Barney's UK: Flannels LN-CC Superdenim (also check their sale section) Coggles Corniche End Eleven Present London Oi Polloi Peggs & Son Bureau Belfast Oki-ni EU: Cultizm Tres Bien Shop Volls Ushowu Nitty Gritty French Trotters JP: ARKnets Bless Kink Nagoya Don't forget Rakuten There are probably a ton of other JP sites selling them, but a lot are blogs, and the exchange rate is terrible, so I haven't been keeping up... As far as pieces I own at the moment, I have a Cameraman (my favorite Cabourn garment ever), a few knits, and the Johns pant. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] There are a couple Cabourn items I'd love to have... Pea Coat from JP [​IMG] This sweater has always been a holy grail for me [​IMG] Oh, and someday I will have a Mallory jacket. I loved this windowpane version from this year. [​IMG]
     
  6. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    No, I agree with you. Which is why I put the "workwear" in quotes. I was using that term very loosely. I suppose what I should have said is that for brands that are often found in the same retail places (EG, WWM, etc.)--Nigel Cabourn's price point is on the high end.
    The design, materials, and construction are so much better than EG and WWM. The only possible comparison, in my mind, is Mister Freedom. But I think NC even exceeds MFSC. EDIT: and by that, I mean similarly heritage/military-inspired brands. I don't know anything about high fashion.
     
  7. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Cabourn is also often sold alongside Belstaff and Barbour Tokito (about the same pricepoints) and CP Company (higher pricepoint). And in some cases, it sits alongside Dries van Noten, Martin Margiela, and Junya Watanabe. The placement within the lineup really depends on the individual stockist.

    The focus on technical, but obsolete, garments sorta make it an heritage version of CP company IMHO, while the look is very Junya.
     
  8. adamha21

    adamha21 Senior member

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    The design, materials, and construction are so much better than EG and WWM. The only possible comparison, in my mind, is Mister Freedom. But I think NC even exceeds MFSC.

    From the few pieces I have handled I would say this is definitely true.
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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  10. adamha21

    adamha21 Senior member

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    Zissou, what size is your cameraman?

    Fok, you think you'd be a 50? Not a 48?
     
  11. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Interview w. Cabourn, he does mention engineered garment and is quite complimentary about the brand. Basically says he wants to keep a British focus and not do the same as they're doing:
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Zissou, what size is your cameraman?

    Fok, you think you'd be a 50? Not a 48?


    I'm between a 48 and 50 in most things. My chest is at 40" on the dot, which means a small 50 for most brands, and a large 48. For something fashiony, like Geller, I might go with a size 48 for a more streamlined look, and I like the chest to have between 2-3" of clearance (which is actually very little). However, for heritage brands, I prefer the fits to be a little more TTS, and Cabourn stuff is not cut very large as is, the parka styled jackets being the exceptions.
     
  13. adamha21

    adamha21 Senior member

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    Thanks for posting the video Fuuma. It was a fun watch.
     
  14. AR_Six

    AR_Six Senior member

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    While I try to lean militaria especially in the winter, and I can see that influence in a lot of Cabourn stuff, I am just never that into most of his pieces. There have been a few exceptions - he had this kind of duffle trench with an inset leather belt that went for peanuts at a recent sale that I figure I'll carry a torch for for a while. Awesome piece of outerwear. But most of the stuff posted in here just isn't quite hitting home with me; I could describe most of the stuff as "close but no cigar". The peacoat is a good example - nice piece and I like the strap / leather detail on the sleeves, but something's just not quite right with the pocket accents and buttons. I recognize opinions vary on this.
     
  15. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    Zissou, what size is your cameraman? Fok, you think you'd be a 50? Not a 48?
    Cabourn runs quite slim on almost everything I have tried (which isn't a ton). I have a 39" chest, and I can wear 48 in most knitwear. Although, I had to stretch my two lambswool vests in 48, but not my funnel neck sweater in the same size. The cameraman in 50 fits me perfectly, with room for a heavy sweater underneath. I would guess that Fok is the same sizing, unless his shoulders are particularly broad. Mine are about 18" for shirts. p.s.- Here is Tres Bien Shop's Flickr set from Pitti Uomo and here's a photoset from the original Ascent of Cabourn Exhibition. There used to be a video, but I can't find it.
     
  16. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    I had a chance to see some Cabourn the last time I was in NYC, really loved the construction and detailing. IMO the best pieces are the ones with the fabric mixing - the cameraman jacket, and even that peacoat with the leather banded cuffs. I wasn't that big of a fan of the everest parka.
     
  17. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    ^Where'd you see the pea coat in NYC?
     
  18. adamha21

    adamha21 Senior member

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    Cabourn runs quite slim on almost everything I have tried (which isn't a ton). I have a 39" chest, and I can wear 48 in most knitwear. Although, I had to stretch my two lambswool vests in 48, but not my funnel neck sweater in the same size. The cameraman in 50 fits me perfectly, with room for a heavy sweater underneath. I would guess that Fok is the same sizing, unless his shoulders are particularly broad. Mine are about 18" for shirts. p.s.- Here is Tres Bien Shop's Flickr set from Pitti Uomo and here's a photoset from the original Ascent of Cabourn Exhibition. There used to be a video, but I can't find it.
    Hmm based on the measurements I figured I'd probably be a 50 in a few of the items I've been looking at, but now you have me thinking I'd be a 52.
     
  19. clausc

    clausc Senior member

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    I am normally 40 US, and the flight jacket size 50 I bought from the recent superdenim sale is very tight, so I should have sized up. Otherwise I tried the Everest and the Storm parkas and a 48 could work for a normal/slim fit. I also have a thick sweater size 48 which is just fine.
     
  20. mpcec

    mpcec Senior member

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    Adam personally I think you'd be a 50... I'm a 48 in the Cameraman (tried on SS10 and FW10 versions) and IIRC I believe you're generally 1 size above me in EG and WWM right? (For reference I wear a Medium.) Also I needed a 50 in Cabourn knitwear.
     

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