Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Fuuma, Nov 14, 2010.
The jackets are fine...it`s the shirts that lack the Made in UK part...
To be honest NC is all about quality and I've only ever seen his product made to the highest standard.
I have seen very bad UK/US/Japanese production and I've seen some exceptional Chinese production.
It's kind of like the Selvedge denim fallacy. Selvedge denim automatically means its quality denim when that's not true in the slightest. Selvedge can be made on the cheapest fabric around and put together really badly. The same could be said for Made in UK of UK Fabrics.
Thankfully NC never does this. He uses incredible fabric and its constructed beautifully. In my eyes where its constructed is a minor point.
Yes I have heard of this happening as well - Burberry have been accused of this and it is a good point but I don't think for one minute that Nigel Cabourn would or has done this at all - he has always been very open as to where things are made.
It was Nigel himself who mentioned in a video interview that the waxed cotton chord for the adjusters is sourced in Japan.
Also he again while being interviewed on video said that he had to go to Italy to get his unique camo pattern printed on to the fabric because he just couldn't find anyone to do it in Britain in such small quantities - the garment then is then wholly manufactured back in England with the printed fabric.
In both Nigel's books - Ascent of Cabourn and Scott's Last Expedition book to accompany the limited editions, he names and lists very openly all the manufacturers who contributed and made all the garments. These are the same manufacturers who produce much of the Authentic range.
I have spoken to several of them through my contacts in the clothing industry, not just in relation to Nigel Cabourn but with regard to manufacturing processes and they are all intensely proud to be associated with the brand and work hard with Nigel in sampling and getting the details and manufacturing correct which is all done 'in-house'.
I went to a very old cloth supplier in Delph near Oldham and they had sample Cabourn garments and supply several specially woven fabrics exclusively for NC garments - mainly the non-Hebridedan heavy weight tweeds for the AW (FW) collections.
Some garments are even finished by hand in Nigel's garden offices - there was a strong rumour that he painted the hoods on the Coastal Command jackets himself after they were made in Scotland!
I don't think there is anything being hidden or deliberately labelled wrongly. To use another example of a topic touched on recently - The Antarctic Parka is made in Yorkshire, England but the coyote fur around the hood didn't come from England - we all know that.
Not too sure of the provenance of the poor old geese either come to think of it!
I think all we have established is that the more cost effective Army Shirts in the SS13 Authentic collection (Mainline shirts still made in Japan) are made in Portugal and are tagged differently stating 'made in the Eu' which is correct labeling.
These might even come out of the same factories as Ted Baker shirts as mentioned on the forum but the difference being there will only around 100 made in each colourway exclusively for NC to NC's design using his commissioned fabrics instead of thousands for Ted Baker - hence the price differential.
Of course Japan which is a big market for Authentic as well as Mainline, will only have the Mainline Japanese shirts which makes the Authentic shirts even more exclusive and limited.
While on the subject of shirts - loved the two tone Football Shirt when I was in Flannels - the lighter blue cloth on the collar and arms was as thick as the Japanese oxford shirts and the main body blue fabric had a lovely feel. The through buttons allow it to worn inside out which gives it another dimension as the placket is contrasted on the underside.
Thought I would also share a story I heard a while ago that just shows the attention to detail that Nigel goes to in making authentic clothing
In 2010 Nigel rereleased the Antarctic/Everest Parka for the first time after the initial 2003 collection and the Utility Debenhams collection.
The lining was to be made in Pertex for its weight, wicking and down proof qualities but since Nigel last used Pertex, the mills in Manchester England had closed and it was being made in the Far East and so Nigel managed to source and secure a quantity of old, British made, deadstock Pertex for the parkas.
This is why all the linings in the parkas have the same green lining despite the different outer ventile colours
Sorry to bore you all but for those still awake or still interested
The Antarctic/Everest parka was made in Sheffield by Rab but I think it's now made by Peter Hutchinson Design in Cheshire - my 2010 parka required repairing in 2011 after an accident and it went back to somewhere in Yorkshire - cant quite remember but it definitely went back to a company called Peter Hutchinson Design and their factory is in Stalybridge Cheshire.
Mackintosh in Nelson, Lancashire make the Cameraman Jackets and quite a lot of other Cabourn outerwear pieces
The 4 way roll necks and wool scarves and hats are made in Derbyshire by Future Textiles
I think the Mallorys and Tenzing's and Cricket jackets are made in the East End of London by Panache
Cookson and Clegg in Lancashire I think make most of the trousers, the cold weather parka and ventile classic parka and they were probably the original manufacturer of the cold weather parka in the 1950's for the military.
The cloth supplier near Oldham that I mentioned in an earlier post was Mallalieu's of Delph if anyone wants to google it
Definitely not bored--these posts are incredibly-interesting. Looks like you might be right about Panache: http://14oz-berlin.blogspot.com/2012/10/nigel-cabourn-limited-edition-ii-scotts.html.
For whom does Panache manufacture besides Nigel Cabourn?
Eric - love your posts. Thanks so much for taking the time to write these very informative discussions.
I am seriously loving all these new posts. Honestly as a long time owner of Cabourn products I can't say I've seen any other brand match him on consistency in quality.
One thing I wish I had more of was COLD WINTERS here in CA as I love his coats, often purchase them but don't ever wear them. Thus, selling one of my favorite pieces o ebay... =(
I can't wait to one day post up some of my pieces when Nigel is considered a vintage brand!
"The lining was to be made in Pertex for its weight, wicking and down proof qualities but since Nigel last used Pertex, the mills in Manchester England had closed and it was being made in the Far East and so Nigel managed to source and secure a quantity of old, British made, deadstock Pertex for the parkas."
That's really interesting, it's also maybe why my Everest parka "bleeds" very fine down from the inside, the Pertex being old.
After 3 winters and plenty of use it still happens. I can't wear anything dark otherwise it looks like I've been tarred and feathered.
Any suggestions anyone?
I was going to wait until milder windy weather and hang the jacket inside out on the washing line or possibly vacuum the inside !
Any thoughts / inside info on whether the prices will be further reduced over at the Marrkt Cabourn X Bauer sale? None of the stuff seems to be shifting, or will they leave it as it is and try again later in the year?
Going by their last 2-3 sales, they'll drop prices a couple of times before calling it a day. Just a case of keeping an eye on the sale and hoping...
Just had a really good experience with Cultizm. Good customer service and good communication if anyone's ever wondered about ordering Cabourn from them.
Oxford Blue shirt Jacket
Good to know. Coggles, and Present were also top class. Good at responding, and goods delivered very quickly to Japan. Can recommend both.
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