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Nicholas Templeman: A Bespoke Shoemaker

Texasmade

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I don’t want to drag this into the thread either but Covid delta variant is still raging across the US and is expected to get worse. A few months ago my office was planning to fully reopen on Sept 1 but that’s been pushed back indefinitely for now.
 

TheChihuahua

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I don’t want to drag this into the thread either but Covid delta variant is still raging across the US and is expected to get worse.

yeah, I might be a little over optimistic saying it’s over.
But once it does finally end, it will be time to embrace looking good again. The whole sweatpants and denim phase will pass (for many) and looking good again will become popular.
 

Texasmade

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yeah, I might be a little over optimistic saying it’s over.
But once it does finally end, it will be time to embrace looking good again. The whole sweatpants and denim phase will pass (for many) and looking good again will become popular.
Got it.

I still go into the office almost everyday and usually wear normal business clothes Mon-Wed. Thursday I’ll be a little lazy and wear chinos and a polo. If I go in on Fridays, I’ll wear jeans and a t shirt or shorts and a polo.
 

ThinkDerm

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my vote:
Covid is over. Loose the Caj. Step it up.

brogued wingtip oxfords (slight brogue, not a busy mess, elegant punching) in a dark chocolate or deep oxblood. Fashion forward chisel toe, none of this almond round boring style.

the streetwear phase is about to run its course. Nice clothes will make a comeback. Get ahead of the curve! Dress up that sports coat look!

Covid is not over, unfortunately
 

dieworkwear

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These look nice. No side seams or back seams.

@ntempleman is it harder to do a split toe with no side or back seams? If not, is there any reason to use back or side seams?

241314896_1905971666247036_1390106104341899955_n.jpg
 

ntempleman

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It’s not much more difficult, it’s not as economical with leather as the pattern is one long strip, the lake is a seperate piece of leather. We would have used this construction on your pair but the only way to get the look of the lake with the broad stitches was to have a one piece vamp/lake on that thinner leather.

The more seams you have the more you can squeeze out of a piece of leather generally as the smaller patterns pieces will tessellate better. You can also preshape the upper to the last so you don’t have to stretch as much, like a back seam for instance. The benefit to no seams at the back and sides is better waterproofing in theory, for me it’s just a nice nod to the history of the craft more than anything
 
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patrickBOOTH

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I wrote this in another thread, but around January of last year, I had all these ideas of clothes I was going to get from various tailors. Was going to get a suit from this person, a sport coat from that person. Then the pandemic hit the US and the first lockdown happened in March 2020. By August 2020 or so, I hadn't worn a piece of tailored clothing more than three or four times. Not even dress shirts. I couldn't imagine ordering another piece of custom clothing.

Then the US started to open back up in June of this year, and I started being able to go out again. Started going back to offices, cafes, restaurants, and out to see friends. Found myself wearing tailored clothing even more frequently before, and then suddenly, also thinking about other things I wanted to get.

I'm not a wealthy person by any means, but I've heard from friends in the luxury trade that business has been booming. These are from people who sell high-end watches and cars. One Savile Row fitter who's in the US -- and has been able to travel for fittings -- told me that trunk shows are now better than he's seen in his 20-year career.

My impression is that there are two markets: super-wealthy people, and then normal guys who are enthusiasts. Supposedly, the wealthy are spending because they have extra money from not being able to travel. I'm guessing (hoping) that enthusiasts will return once they're able to get back into the swing of wearing tailored clothes. I assume many are white-collar workers who haven't been as hard hit by the pandemic, but I don't know if emerging WFH arrangements might affect this.

I don't know. Still a grim scenario, but I'm slightly more optimistic than I was at this time last year.
Here in NY Frank (Ercole's son) told me he had been doing really well because established clients were ordering bespoke lounge wear. He said he hadn't made so many silk pajamas and robes in his entire life. Also jeans/casual pants. Times are good for the folks with FU money. Th
 

dieworkwear

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Does anyone know what causes shoes to eventually fuzz up like this?

Sometimes I see suede shoes that look like they've aged well. Other times, they develop this hairy surface. Is it the material or how the wearer treated their shoes?



shoes.jpeg
shoes3.jpeg
shoes2.jpeg
 

FlyingHorker

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Based on the two pairs of suede shoes I own, I'd say suede quality.

One pair I own has a couple hairy spots and has been worn a lot.

Another is a chewbacca pair, hasn't been worn much, and still got hairy.

A good quick brushing after each wear is what I do for both. I like these rubber style ones on the bottom. The bristle brushes I find are too harsh for suede.

Photo-2021-07-03-4-35-15-PM-scaled.jpg
 

daizawaguy

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A match to the fuzz and a quick brush will have you back to a smooth nap in no time...?
 

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