Nicholas Templeman: A Bespoke Shoemaker

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, May 26, 2015.

  1. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They are indeed! - I really like the small toe caps.

    According to Nicholas' Instagram page

    https://instagram.com/nicholastemplemanltd/

    they are ladies' shoes.

    So, presumably, the last is narrower (and smaller) than the average bloke's last.
     


  2. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    A little bit, everything's just sort of scaled down from the norm and you can't see from this angle, but there's also a higher stacked heel - close to 2 inches. A lot of people shy away from ladies work but I really enjoy it, there's usually more of an opportunity to work with all the possible shapes, and the commissions are often more unique than the usual men's pair. Plus they're usually smaller, and smaller things just look busier by nature I guess, so small tweaks make a bigger difference - like those shorter caps.

    And thanks to all for the kind words of encouragement, I appreciate them very much, as ever.
     


  3. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Another pair.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2015


  4. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That lady's shoes has some very meticulous patterning work, in particular the proportions of vamp and broguing.

    The last two pairs linked are both very classic British.
     


  5. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Had a fitting in welt yesterday, which went quite well - which you probably can guess from the fact I'm posting up pictures and not busy making adjustments.

    [​IMG]

    It's always an anxious time, the moment you discover if all that time invested was worth it or if you have to go back to the drawing board. It never seems to get any less nerve-wracking, but I suppose if it did that would probably be sign I was getting blasé about the whole thing and it's time to have a good long look at what you're doing this for. Anyway, no changes required so all that's left is to finish the job. The customer was very happy with the fit and look (and happy for me to share) and I thought it might make an interesting post, because this particular job shows a bit of the transformation that can be achieved when you have a pair of bespoke shoes made.

    Here's the customers outline:

    [​IMG]

    Not a totally uncommon shape really, but the type of foot that has difficulty getting shoes that fit well - a bit wide, comparatively narrow heels, very "square" and rather short at the front. You can get a wide fitting shoe but the heel will generally be swimming in the backs, the squareness will be a squeeze in most shoes and this is the experience that the customer has had to date.

    Great news for me though, because I can avoid all that unpleasantness relatively easily. Fitting any foot is pretty easy after a bit of practice truth be told, the real challenge is fitting the foot and making as pleasing a look as you possibly can at the same time. Doing this can verge on the impossible.

    There's a few saving graces for me with this measure, the arch is very healthy and I was able to get a great shape thanks to that. It's amazing how "light" a shoe can look with a good shape to the arch, like a well fitted waist on a suit I suppose, something RTW shoes have to forgo in order to fit as many potential feet as possible. Another benefit I had was the front/back balance, with the comparatively short toes meaning I had some extra space to play with. The typical ratio from heel to joint is about 2/3 of total length, so adding a bit extra wouldn't look too unusual and I could work a pleasing shape into the toe without compromising the width on the toes. All simple stuff really, simple but fairly effective.

    [​IMG]


    So effective, in fact, that when I saw the shoes next the feet I wasn't sure if I'd made a boo-boo somehow, those doubts always creep in - they looked too narrow at first glance, it's just a fitting I told myself - but in they went, the "pfft" sound of a well fitting shoe was made and all seemed well. Laces just slightly apart, even on both, feedback is good, they look right, let's carry on.

    Any nerves beforehand are totally worth it once they get lifted like that.
     


  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    ^ Finished product of shoes above. Nice swan neck detailing if you blow up the photo.

    [​IMG]
     


  7. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Just some phone-photographs to shove things on Instagram until I dust off the SLR for a proper photoshoot.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2015


  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    love this pair. looks like dwfrommer's work
     


  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Might be the nicest compliment I've been given in quite a while. Thank you.
     


  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    wish I had a pair of your shoes DW... is this possible?
     


  11. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    he has a pretty long wait list/takes on very specific work if I recall
     


  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    With all due respect...sincerely...this thread is about Nicolas' work. I admire him and his shoes and I am a little embarrassed and a little humbled to be thought of in the same company.

    But let it bide, aye? This is not the time nor place...IMO.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2015


  13. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Not a problem in the slightest, please carry on by all means.

    I'll get a commission of sorts though, right?
     


  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Of sorts...how about a wee dram or three, in Redmond, Oregon?
     


  15. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Always good to have a friendly port available in case of a storm.
     


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