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Nicholas Templeman: A Bespoke Shoemaker

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, May 26, 2015.

  1. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Forgive the crude finger-on-phone-screen drawings, but essentially this is the elastic sided Oxford you see everywhere with the elastic going straight into the vamp seam

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    While the old Lobb way of doing it was to cut a curved elastic that jus touched the vamp seam, like this

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    You don't really see that any more, Lobb don't have one in the showcase even. That's why on their website they call the elastic Oxford shoe "Tuczek style" or words to that effect.
     
    3 people like this.
  2. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Why didn't I just get the pictures in the first place rather than draw those things out

    [​IMG]

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    Top Tuczek, bottom Lobb
     
    3 people like this.
  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That is clear.
    Thanks. The Lobb looks simpler but is probably more complex to make. Not sure which looks better, in the end.
     
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Just saw there was a story about Nicholas at Manolo. The article is in Swedish, but it translates fairly well through Google Translate (or a browser plug-in, if you have one)

    http://www.manolo.se/artiklar/artikel/20160818/nicholas-templeman-bespokeskomakaren-som-ville-mer

    Some photos from the post, which I thought were nice. More in the article.

    (Also, very impressed that Nicholas wears French cuffs and a tie when making shoes! I'm sure he didn't just do this for the cameras)

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    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016
    5 people like this.
  5. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    I didn't even know the guy was there taking pictures until something like 5 weeks later!
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Probably my favourite shoe model is a lazyman wholecut with toe medallion. Sleekness, comfort and coup de grace at once.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Hi Nicolas, first of all let me tell you that your work is just sublime. I am in love with this shoe; pattern, execution, apron stitching and leather. Could you tell me what leather did you use here?. Your leathers are really outstanding. Could you explain us the execution of the apron stitch?. I suppose that you have used a very thin needle and thread for that chained stitching. Is it just ornamental?. Is the inside stitching of the apron chained too (I can not appreciate that from the pic) Thanks for sharing your amazing work.
     
  8. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    You're awfully kind. That's a waxed calf, suede side out and waxed. Trying to get more of it, I love it but the source is quite particular. Think I might have to go down to Devon and start begging, or paying lots. The stitch is essentially what you see on those Norwegian welted shoes, purely decorative. It's on both sides of the raise, so you've got the normal two threads going through the upper creating the raised lake, then each of those threads has another two threads woven throughout - 6 threads in total.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Thanks a lot for claryfications. I think It is worthwhile to go to Devon and get more hides of that leather if possible so we can enjoy some more shoes of yours with it. I really like it for derbies and boots. Cheers.
     
  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    5 people like this.
  11. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    I see your split toes and raise you, uh, not split toes...

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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  13. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Something I never expected when I started all this, was just how wierd it would be to see my name used as a noun.
     
    5 people like this.
  14. diadem

    diadem Senior member

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    I feel like the majority of recent Templeman commissions have been EG Dover lookalikes and lazymans. Are you getting sick of these styles yet, Nick?
     
  15. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Perhaps its a nice problem to have?
     
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  16. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    I don't know, it been quite good in some ways. Been able to strip my pattern collection down to just two styles now, saves quite a bit of space.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. vmss

    vmss Senior member

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    IMO you make one of the best split toes Dover like shoes. Any idea why customers are interested in this particular style lately?
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2016
  18. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    If I ever retire from StyleForum, I'm going to hang my pair of Dovers over a telephone wire. ::praying hands emoji::

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    Last edited: Sep 30, 2016
    5 people like this.
  19. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    That's very kind of you to say. Norwegian styles have always been popular, probably even more popular in the USA than they are here. I may have had a few orders for them lately, but my sort of volumes won't ever be used as a measure for trend patterns - if only, probably more to do with my travelling and as a result, client base. It's coming up for 2 years since I went on my own so this stage, most customers of mine are new. Often you'll find a British guy's first order will be a black Oxford or similar, while the folks I meet in the US are a touch more flexible in their requirements perhaps. I'm still knocking out good old black oxfords like no tomorrow, so there's still that.
     
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I think they were more popular on menswear fora like 7-8 years ago. I fell in love with them through Phat Guido and Ethan Newton's old blogs. Aportnoy once said they were in his his top five in terms of shoe models; Bruce Boyer also really likes them.

    Maybe a bit of a cliche iGent shoe, but I love them.

    RJman also hates them, which kind of makes me love them more tbh.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2016
    2 people like this.

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