Newbie

[StagRaven]

Hello everyone, I've been reading the board for a while, and decided that I should at least make myself known, even if I cannot contribute to most posts. Â I am at a turning point in my life where I am graduating college, getting married, and (hopefully) starting medical school. Â I decided that I no longer wanted to purposely look like I dress in the dark. Â My fiance tells me that I look good when I dress in clothes that match and that fit. Â The problem is, most of my clothing hasn't changed since high school (wearing a uniform for four years kind of does that). Â Also, although I have lost a good deal of weight, my mother still thinks I wear an XL shirt (I'm now a medium). Â Anyway, this forum has really helped me begin to understand the proper way to dress. And so I finish my first thread with a question. Â I was planning to rent a tuxedo for my wedding from one of the standard rental places. Â I'm going soon to check pricing and set up our account for the groomsmen/fathers/&c. Â I had a thought, however, that for a little more money than to rent for the wedding and the honeymoon, I could probably buy a better quality tux from a place like JosABank or the like. Â My question is, knowing I will wear it three times very soon, and an unknown amount after that (though I would assume some, due to association with those in the field of medicine and our love of the opera), would it make sense to buy the slightly better one now, or wait and get an even better one maybe 6-7 years down the road and rent now? Thanks for your help, and I'm glad to be a part of the forum Â

 

[hopkins_student]

I'm about to start medical school as well, and all of the schools where I've toured and/or been accepted, have formal events at least once each year. In light of that, I think you should buy as well as you can within your means now, and upgrade later if necessary. If you're purchasing now, I highly recommend looking on Ebay as well. Post whatever strikes your fancy on the SF and many people here will be able to guide your purchasing decision.

I'm not sure if Jos. A. Bank makes a dinner suit with appropriate styling, but I know that for just a little bit more money Brooks Brothers does. What are your price limitations? With that information we should be able to make some better suggestions.

 

[Bergdorf Goodwill]

First of all, one of the most liberating things you can do in terms of clothing is to stop thinking of things in terms of S/M/L/XL.

You are not a medium. You are you.

You are a physical mass with defined measurements, and if you are shaped in a manner similar to that of other human beings, it is likely that you can find quality clothing that fits you well from a variety of outlets.

I recommend taking your measurements as a good starting point. S/M/L/XL works in some capacities, but they are not universal concepts and fit preferences can often dictate changes in size.

It is also likely that you can do better than Jos. A. Banks by using eBay or a number of online retailers combined with a talented tailor.

Good on you for wanting to forego the rental.

 

[johnapril]

I don't know your size, but one of the forum members is selling some tuxedos on his site, and they seem pretty nice. He's also very helpful in answering questions. http://virtualclotheshorse.com/index.p....90482cc

 

[StagRaven]

First of all, one of the most liberating things you can do in terms of clothing is to stop thinking of things in terms of S/M/L/XL.

Oh, I agree totally. I just used that as a generic example of the size difference overall. Plus, I'm still fighting the old part of my brain that doesn't like buttons on shirts

 

[ken]

Definitely buy now. Even if it's mediocre, bring it to a decent tailor and it'll look a hell of a lot better than the best rental you can find.
In 6-7 years, you're tastes/body/income will change and it'll probably be time for a new one anyhow.

 

[StagRaven]

buy4lesstuxedo.com has the Geoffrey Beene GB IV shawl collar for $259.95, which is in my price range. I don't want to spend much more than say $500 total due to the fact that there are other big wedding things to pay for as well.  Here's the blurb from their site:

"Satin lapels, Single-breasted, Double besom pockets, Satin covered buttons, Non-vented back, Silver herringbone acetate lining, White striped acetate sleeve lining, 2 inside pockets with additional 'cigarette pocket', 3-button vented sleeves ... matching trousers are double-pleated and lined to the knee with a standard satin stripe down each outer leg"

What do you guys think?

 

[houston]

I would not do a shawl collar. Preferably peaked lapel though notched would be ok. Go with one button as well.

 

[johnapril]

I don't want to spend much more than say $500 total due to the fact that there are other big wedding things to pay for as well.

You do have a long life ahead of you. Maybe, in time, the difference between $259 and $500 isn't such a big one, although in the present the item you could get by paying a bit more would certainly make a big difference?

By the way, shouldn't the bride's father cover most of the wedding expenses (not your tux, of course)?

 

[Manton]

I would not do a shawl collar.  Preferably peaked lapel though notched would be ok.  Go with one button as well.

I disagree. Peak before shawl, yes. But notch, never. One button: always, on an SB dinner jacket.

 

[StagRaven]

By the way, shouldn't the bride's father cover most of the wedding expenses (not your tux, of course)?

He covered half of her dress. It was THE dress, by Oleg Cassini. He is also paying for the caterer so that he could put what he wants to eat on the menu (with our input, of course).

 

[StagRaven]

I disagree. Â Peak before shawl, yes. Â But notch, never. Â One button: always, on an SB dinner jacket.

This is the impression I was under. One button was always the choice. I picked shawl over peak simply due to my facial structure. Peak on me looks like a stack of boxes.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[spatten]

I tend to think shawl collar looks really good on taller people, and it is perfectly acceptable. It is also less ubiquitous than the notch - which is everywhere on tuxes these days though traditionally incorrect as Manton suggests.  

Remember to budget some money for a nice cumberbun, cuff links, bow tie and a wing collar shirt.  My suggestion is standard black for your first tie/cumberbun. I wear black patent leather shoes with both my tux and my tailsuit - but there may be some disagreement from members of this board.

To my experience there isn't much difference in construction of the jackets in your price range - all you are paying more for is the better fabric and popularity of the brand name.  So spend a little more for nicer fabric if it matters to you.  You would probably have to spend 800$+ retail to get a good quality construction.  Since your weight has been changing you might not want to go that route.  

I think buying your own tux is defintately the way to go - the fit from the rentals is usually horrid.  Bravo.

Congrats,
Scott

 

[LA Guy]

Always buy. Three rentals at about $100-$150 a piece (including everything) will set you back more than a reasonable tux. Lance (www.virtualclotheshorse.com) has an Isaia tux for $550 that will blow any rented tux out of the water. In fact, it will blow most tuxes out of the water. If you are a trim 38R, do not wait to buy it. The Borellis he has are even better, but also more expensive (I'd buy the 40R myself if I weren't broke, having to travel to the West coast pretty much every month, and having to save for the honeymoon (this July) at the same time. Lance also has good tux shirts and bowties (I personally think that straight ties and pretied bowties are perfectly acceptable, but Manton and I may need to take ten paces on this if I write any further.) Ian Andrews, and Ebay seller, also has stellar stuff, though his prices are somewhat higher than Lance's. BTW, having dealt with lance on several occasions, I can say that both he and his wife are terrific and honest people to deal with. I used to be a peaked guy - still am - but the shawl has grown on me, especially now that everyone down to J Crew is doing peaked lapels. I have a Costume National with slim shawl lapels, and extremely slim pants - looks great. Â A lot of how a tux looks depends on your physique, stature, and how your carry yourself.