Newbie Q - jacket fit

[inkysparkychip]

Pretty basic question - how should my jacket fit? A 42 seems a bit snug around the chest and definitely snug in the waist (not enough gym time) and the double vents in the seat pop a bit. Would definitely need tailoring, if possible, to make it fit well. A 44 (same jacket) seems a bit roomy in the chest, fine in the waist and fine in the seat. It would appear not to need tailoring. But, I want it to fit "properly" whatever that means. Any hints on what I should look for, focus on to determine if fit is ok (button pulling, etc.)?

thanks

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by inkysparkychip

Pretty basic question - how should my jacket fit? A 42 seems a bit snug around the chest and definitely snug in the waist (not enough gym time) and the double vents in the seat pop a bit. Would definitely need tailoring, if possible, to make it fit well. A 44 (same jacket) seems a bit roomy in the chest, fine in the waist and fine in the seat. It would appear not to need tailoring. But, I want it to fit "properly" whatever that means. Any hints on what I should look for, focus on to determine if fit is ok (button pulling, etc.)?

thanks

Welcome!

Button-pulling is bad. Try raising your arms outward from the sides and then bringing them forward until they meet in front of you. If this feel tight, then the jacket probably is.

It sounds to me like you're a 44 (or a 43?). Pictures would help. Roomy in the chest is a bit subjective, and it's not clear what standard you are applying.

A little bit off-topic, but I had a debate this morning with one of the helpers at Barney's Warehouse sale, where we had a debate over whether a 56 European was more like a 44 than a 46 (the suit was labeled 46R). In the end, he allowed that the 46 was a mislabeling in this case, but seemed pretty confident that a 56 was generally equivalent to a US 46, and I could not disabuse him of this belief.

 

[inkysparkychip]

Thanks for quick input. Assuming for a moment that perfect fit is unattainable, do you style pros think slightly big is better than slightly small? How about for a kinda overweight middle-aged guy (but not totally sloppy big - 5'9, 180-185, gym virtually every day but eats a ton; so carrying about 15 extra)?

 

[DocHolliday]

On a jacket, the key areas for fit for are the shoulders and chest. Both are difficult to alter. The waist is no big deal to take in, but you want to make sure it isn't too tight. Trouser seat can easily be taken in, and the waist can be taken in by about 2 inches or so. Trousers often can be let out as well -- just make sure there's enough surplus fabric inside to do the job.

 

[inkysparkychip]

Thanks Doc - question. You say "The waist is no big deal to take in, but you want to make sure it isn't too tight" Does this mean that it is tough to let out the waist of the jacket? Does it through off the "lines" of the jacket?

 

[grimslade]

There may not be enough material to let out the waist of a jacket. I suspect that's what Doc H. is referring to. The waist of pants usually has a couple of inches to spare in the back, but jackets often don't have that kind of built-in flexibility.

 

[a tailor]

when buttoned the cloth should hang smoothly with no pulls. most trousers have 2" of outlet cloth at the waist and about 3/4 " at the seat level. the crotch may have 3/4" of outlet. the jacket sides may give you about 1' to1/2" unless its side vented. the center back about 1" unless its center vented. all this may cancell out if its a cheap suit. ask the stores tailor.