Newbie help: lightweight durable clothes for the not so small man

[RQC2700]

Hey guys,

I am in the market for some new essentials (a suit or two, a few shirts, and some trousers). I have read and learned a lot from the forum, but still think I could still use some individualized assistance in my quest.

My main problems are:
1) I am really rough on clothes, so I need materials that can stand up to abuse. I own 2 RLPL suits and everytime I come home I find another small hole in the seat, or tear near a pocket etc. Additionally, I ripped the seat of probably 10 pairs of pants.

2) I travel a good bit; mostly in warmer climates, so Im looking for things that are relatively lightweight.

3) Finally, I am not necessarily small at 6'3 240lbs. I wouldn't say I was fat with a 36 waist, but more of an athletic build. My size; combined with the fact that I seem to prefer the looks normally reserved for slimmer guys seems to cause a lot of problems. It seems that a lot of the clothes made for the above average sized tend to be very boxy.

For years, I have wasted money on buying shirts and suits and getting them tailored to fit, with them never quite looking right. Perhaps I would be better off just having a few custom things made. In which case, I would love some help in knowing what fabrics to choose, where to go, etc.

If I were to choose a look that I would like to emulate; I suppose it would be the style Daniel Craig s sporting in the most recent Bond movies. I am not saying I am trying to look exactly like this, nor do I want to march down and throw a small fortune at Tom Ford. I am merely saying I like the timeless (in my mind) looks, and use of basic colors (navy, khaki, charcoal, black, etc) in those 2 movies.

Hopefully, this post is not too amateur, and any help I receive will be greatly appreciated!

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by RQC2700

My main problems are:
1) I am really rough on clothes, so I need materials that can stand up to abuse. I own 2 RLPL suits and everytime I come home I find another small hole in the seat, or tear near a pocket etc. Additionally, I ripped the seat of probably 10 pairs of pants.

For years, I have wasted money on buying shirts and suits and getting them tailored to fit, with them never quite looking right. Perhaps I would be better off just having a few custom things made. In which case, I would love some help in knowing what fabrics to choose, where to go, etc.


Easier to tell you were to go if you start out with a location

So where in the world are you?

Are you tearing the pants in the same spots all the time? Or is it a different area all the time? When my thighs were bigger I would wear the inside of the pants all the time. Didn't have much choice my thighs were bulky enough to touch. Not an issue right now. Basically I'm trying to say it would be a good idea to figure out why you're damaging the clothes.

 

[RQC2700]

Apologies:
I am in the Boston/Cambridge area.

I am tearing the pants in the seat usually. Unfortunately, I have a rather large legs and backside from weight lifting. They usually tear while bending down to lift somehting up.

That being said, I have a similar problem in the shoulders in my suits and sometimes shirts. I never really rip them they just get very tight when I bring my arms across my body.


I would just buy larger clothes to accomodate my legs/shoulders in the first place, however most of the time they just end up being way too large everywhere else.

 

[Nicola]

I know what you're saying. I upsize my pants to get over my thighs/butt and end up needing to take the waist in. I'm guessing you've also got more then the normal 6" drop. MTM is going to be the best option.

 

[RQC2700]

What material would be reccomended for shirts, jackets, ect?

I am just looking for some basic pieces I can combine into a uniform of sorts. I wouldnt say I am striving to be a sartorial wizard like of the others on here (at least not at this stage

)

 

[Nexus6]

The way I understand your info,
you are tall, muscular & relatively proportioned for your height,
-Youthful slim look
-Durable
-And warmer climates


I may be wrong, but have you considered
darker colours & shades?

(Marlon Brando wore black in Apocalypse Now,
to give a slimming effect.)

Though for summer or warm climates, I don't reccommend black;
Pinstripes perhaps on the pants?

Have you also explored the wonderful world of Linen pants?
They are rather durable, yet lightweight for summer.

They will wrinkle like heck,
but that is part of their charm, and it is perfectly acceptable.

Also, you can do combinations with jackets & the linen pants.
Try jacket fabrics that are 'Super 80's, 100's, 120's, etc'

Perhaps some silk shirts also,
or again, light fabrics for the shirts,
or dark coloured -or- patterned polo shirts.

If you don't need to wear a tie,
then have shirts with Button-Down collars.



I am sure you already knew that,
but just in case.

Best of luck.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Wearing mostly dark colors tends to make large men look more intimidating. Silk shirting is not durable. On the other hand, the Supers information is good.

The problem with fulfilling the original request is the lack of information, such as pictures and how dressy the clothes need to be. Some ideas that might work are lightweight underwear underneath sturdy fabrics and reinforcing new pants.

 

[Nicola]

My guess is he isn't really hard on the clothes. It's just they aren't cut for his muscular body. When he flexes the seams get stressed. I'm guessing the average 36" waist isn't built like a lifter. Lifter thighs can get pretty big. People who lift tend to have to buy bigger pants then the waists si

 

[idfnl]

Originally Posted by RQC2700

Apologies:
I am in the Boston/Cambridge area.

I am tearing the pants in the seat usually. Unfortunately, I have a rather large legs and backside from weight lifting. They usually tear while bending down to lift somehting up.

That being said, I have a similar problem in the shoulders in my suits and sometimes shirts. I never really rip them they just get very tight when I bring my arms across my body.


I would just buy larger clothes to accomodate my legs/shoulders in the first place, however most of the time they just end up being way too large everywhere else.

If you can afford it, try something custom made. Most RTW is not proportional to your build 'specially with the slim fit trend.