New york bespoke

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emsny, Jul 29, 2004.

  1. emsny

    emsny Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2004
    Let me broaden a question I earlier asked about Domenico Spano and give some background about what I'm looking for in the hope that other forum members can be of help. I don't buy a lot of clothes (my wife would disagree): one or two suits a year, maximum. My favored look is the Anderson & Sheppard look of the late Colin Harvey's day: a nice generous drape and fairly soft shoulders. Elegant but easy to wear. The principles espoused by Flusser, in fact. After trying a few other Savile Row firms in the 1980s, I had a few garments made by Anderson, and have been using a private tailor in the UK for the past ten or 12 years, but I feel that we are drifting apart and I thought it would be nice to have a local (Manhattan) alternative - especially given the weakess of the dollar, which has gotten to the point where it is a factor. I'm not looking, especially, to spend a lot more than $3K for a two-piece suit.

    Any thoughts would be welcome. One reads (on forums) much about one Raphael on E 53rd Street - the one set of photos I've seen of a suit of his suggests that his preferred look owes more to, say, Huntsman or Dege than to Anderson. But that might have been more the client's taste than his own practice.

    Thanks, all.
     
  2. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

    Messages:
    3,134
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2002
    Location:
    Cygnus X-1
    I've heard wonderful things from Raphael, as well. If you like the soft shoulder look, you might want to try out the MTM suits from either Attolini (at Vacca) or Kiton (at Bergdorf Goodman).

    koji
     
  3. masterfred

    masterfred Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    81
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2003
    Sorry, ems, I didn't see this thread, and replied to you in your initial post on Spano.
     
  4. emsny

    emsny Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2004
    Thanks, Koji and Masterfred, for your input. I think (though am not sure) that Cheo might be well above my admittedly arbitrary price ceiling - five years ago, I believe, he was already charging >$3K for a suit. I hadn't thought of him, though, and might just stop by when I'm next in that neighborhood. Koji: for the moment, I'm hoping to find someone local rather than an international company. I may, however, give MTM a try some time, perhaps for a spring or summer suit.

    EMS
     
  5. emsny

    emsny Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2004
    It just occurred to me to ask this: has anyone tried Loro Piana (NYC) for a custom/bespoke suit? They appear nowadays to employ a real tailor and to have their own workshop over on Lexington Avenue, close enough that it must surely count as "in house". My impression is that this is bespoke rather than MTM - they're cutting and making from scratch.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by