Made in Canada, staying at the Ace Hotel NY. Words and photos by Pete Anderson Fall 2011 will mark the start of a new era at wings + horns, but there's a thread of continuity running through the new collection. wings + horns made its bread with quality fleece basics that innovated with fabric and styling, and the last few years the brand has seasoned their line with regional Pacific Northwest and workwear flavors courtesy of designer Brian Mendoza, who left in 2010. This year new designer Davidson Manaloto will be cooking up clean-lined cotton basics as well as outerwear, denim, and footwear. Fall's collection introduces more inventive fabrics with character--a new wool cashmere blend, heavy jersey, cotton camouflage herringbone, and a dark, complex chambray. Traditionally made cowichans remain, as well as the fleece blankets that have been a part of the lineup for years. A new long wool coat will be part of the line as well as a outerwear co-branded with the UK's Heritage Research. Wings + horns remains the Canadian standard for balancing fashion and streetwear, drawing on heritage and vintage but not bound by them. A new car-length coat with foldover pockets, shaped by seams in the chest and shoulders. The jocks should be happy to see wings + horns' sweet take on sweats back in the game. The fleece trou have a drawstring at the ankle so you can tighten em cropped and show off your New Balances (or other footwear of choice). Everyone should be happy to see wings + horns denim again. wings + horns may not have built their rep on jeans but the narrow cut and attention to detail make them worthy of any denim collection. wings + horns doesn't generally play with the reproduction crowd but this spring and fall the brand will deliver jeans with light, natural washes as well as raw. Jeans Chambray shirt with cord collar and metal buttons, with camo cargos and a cowichan vest. Wooly plaids, button collars Other than their tiger fleece and tube scarves, wings + horns accessories may have gone underappreciated in the last few years. The footwear and accessories we saw for next year should change that. Simple but unusual knit ties, toques, and Italy-made suede sneakers with rawhide laces round out a solid collection. striped ties and suede shoes Black and tan Made in Italy Braided leather detail on a fleece piece. wings + horns has long used native-inspired details in their designs, from leather and beads to feather prints and embroidery. The Heritage Research designs caught my eye from the minute we walked in. Heritage Research clothing is designed by Russ Gater and Daniel Savory, and shares wings + horns penchant for referencing the past without reproducing it. UK-made, the waxed bomber and fishtail parka were ideal--true to the shapes of the classics but uncluttered and well-cut. Fok tries on the bomber. Samples still fit--for now. The parka is lined in quilted cotton. Wear a fishtail, listen to Fishscale. Fok and Jenny from Acrimony discussed the shops buys for fall. Wouldn't be complete without a shot of Rob Lo. This is all we could sneak.