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New topcoat advice

rjc149

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I'm in the market for a new top coat, mine has become a bit worn and frayed.

I went to several department stores today, Bloomingdale's, Neiman Marcus, Macy's, Nordstrom's... everything I saw was 100% cashmere and too light, cheaper wool/poly blends, or just too short and slim-fit. I checked out Brooks Brother's, but it looks like they were basically out of stock on everything, with only a few wool/cashmere coats that were either too long, or too short, for $1,000 on sale. They also felt a little too light. I went home empty-handed.

I'd like a thick, stiff, heavy, 100% wool topcoat, single-breasted with notched lapels. I'm 5'10, and would like something that goes down to my knees or maybe just above. It needs to be warm in 20's and teens degree weather. I was surprised at how difficult a seemingly classic wardrobe staple is to find these days.

I came across this one from Spier and Mackay: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/charcoal-woolchashmere-l1782560-ia-190-sngboc-fw21

Exactly the look I'm going for, but I've had bad experiences buying sight-unseen off the internet.
 

mhip

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I'm in the market for a new top coat, mine has become a bit worn and frayed.

I went to several department stores today, Bloomingdale's, Neiman Marcus, Macy's, Nordstrom's... everything I saw was 100% cashmere and too light, cheaper wool/poly blends, or just too short and slim-fit. I checked out Brooks Brother's, but it looks like they were basically out of stock on everything, with only a few wool/cashmere coats that were either too long, or too short, for $1,000 on sale. They also felt a little too light. I went home empty-handed.

I'd like a thick, stiff, heavy, 100% wool topcoat, single-breasted with notched lapels. I'm 5'10, and would like something that goes down to my knees or maybe just above. It needs to be warm in 20's and teens degree weather. I was surprised at how difficult a seemingly classic wardrobe staple is to find these days.

I came across this one from Spier and Mackay: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/charcoal-woolchashmere-l1782560-ia-190-sngboc-fw21

Exactly the look I'm going for, but I've had bad experiences buying sight-unseen off the internet.
I've really liked the vast majority of what I've ordered from S&M.
If you've never ordered before, I believe the first return is free.
 

breakaway01

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I do like Spier and Mackay for tailored clothing. No experience with that specific coat but I'd note that the measurements seem a little short if you want a knee-length coat. Looks like this coat will reach to the mid-thigh.
 

rjc149

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I do like Spier and Mackay for tailored clothing. No experience with that specific coat but I'd note that the measurements seem a little short if you want a knee-length coat. Looks like this coat will reach to the mid-thigh.
My current coat is size 40R and is 40' in length and comes to my kneecaps. The S&M size 40R is 37.4' in length, which I think would be okay, just 2 or so inches shorter. I'm mainly concerned about two things,

1. I'm reading that S&M coats are cut slim -- I have a large chest and shoulder area because I'm a weight lifter, and I want to wear this coat over sweaters as wells as jackets. A lot of the coats I tried today were much too tight in the shoulders and arms with a jacket on underneath.

2. I'm worried the wool isn't heavy enough for NYC winters. I usually wear a down parka for sub-20F weather, but the wool/cashmere fabrics I felt today were much too lightweight for real winter wear in typical 20's and 30's.

I'm also doing everything I can to avoid a black coat. I'd really prefer a charcoal or gray.

Maybe I'll give the S&M a shot, order it a size up. Everyone here seems to vouch for the brand.
 

breakaway01

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My current coat is size 40R and is 40' in length and comes to my kneecaps. The S&M size 40R is 37.4' in length, which I think would be okay, just 2 or so inches shorter. I'm mainly concerned about two things,

1. I'm reading that S&M coats are cut slim -- I have a large chest and shoulder area because I'm a weight lifter, and I want to wear this coat over sweaters as wells as jackets. A lot of the coats I tried today were much too tight in the shoulders and arms with a jacket on underneath.

2. I'm worried the wool isn't heavy enough for NYC winters. I usually wear a down parka for sub-20F weather, but the wool/cashmere fabrics I felt today were much too lightweight for real winter wear in typical 20's and 30's.

I'm also doing everything I can to avoid a black coat. I'd really prefer a charcoal or gray.

Maybe I'll give the S&M a shot, order it a size up. Everyone here seems to vouch for the brand.
I’d size up in that coat.
 

rjc149

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3-roll-2 button closure -- that looks like a fairly deep V and exposed chest area.

I guess they really don't make them like they used to. Scouring the vintage selection on Ebay now.
 

johng70

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I have a couple top coats from Bookster in UK. Very happy. One in a coating wool and one in a heavy tweed. Both MTO so it can take a few months but great products
 

rjc149

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Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

I ended up ordering this one off Ebay, "vintage" (c. 1990's) Hart Schaffner Marx coat, 100% wool. Set me back $90 shipped. The search for a new overcoat in the style, material, and color I want was just getting too wearisome.
s-l1600.jpg


It's traditional, and maybe a little more traditional than I was going for. It's a 46 length, which is going to be below my knees, so if it fits my shoulders, I'll take it to a tailor for a re-work (shorten the length, take the coat in slightly, shorten the sleeves etc). Those big lapels date it, but I think they're reasonable and I'm not that young anymore anyways.
 

bicycleradical

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3-roll-2 button closure -- that looks like a fairly deep V and exposed chest area.

I guess they really don't make them like they used to. Scouring the vintage selection on Ebay now.

I have this coat in navy. It does not extend past the knees and combined with the chest opening, I am not sure it is suitable for more serious cold.

All of the above notwithstanding, I quite like the coat.
 

Chadclass

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if that coat doesn’t work out, I would honestly suggest checking out Suitsupply. They have a few coats that are similar off the rack, but you can essentially create your own coat online as well. Just a suggestion!
 

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