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New 'top drawer' Church's range?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by countbaron, Jun 15, 2011.

  1. countbaron

    countbaron Senior member

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    Today I walked into one the Church's shops in central London and they had a few models priced at something like £660 with a new last. One of them was called Lamont I believe, but I may have misread. The SA said they were part of a new collection which she called 'haute de gamme'. She was French so I am unsure if this is the "˜official' name.

    It is a huge jump from the previous top priced £485 range that were associated with the Royal collection, i.e.,. Tewkesbury, Tenby, Taunton, Walcot , etc (I confess to having them all- bought at half-price; no seconds)

    They looked pretty nice, but not obviously £200 nicer. The last is sleeker and there is more 'attention' to the waist- but don't get me wrong it is still far from the pornographic soles of the likes of AS and G&G.

    Anyway, does anyone know anything about this 'new collection'??
     
  2. Leather man

    Leather man Senior member

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    Today I walked into one the Church's shops in central London and they had a few models priced at something like £660 with a new last. One of them was called Lamont I believe, but I may have misread. The SA said they were part of a new collection which she called 'haute de gamme'. She was French so I am unsure if this is the "˜official' name.

    It is a huge jump from the previous top priced £485 range that were associated with the Royal collection, i.e.,. Tewkesbury, Tenby, Taunton, Walcot , etc (I confess to having them all- bought at half-price; no seconds)

    They looked pretty nice, but not obviously £200 nicer. The last is sleeker and there is more 'attention' to the waist- but don't get me wrong it is still far from the pornographic soles of the likes of AS and G&G.

    Anyway, does anyone know anything about this 'new collection'??


    There's another thread about this called " Church's new 137 last" I am the only one who has replied and it was started on 24th May - so I guess the absolute lack of interest is due to SF group think on Church's. I'd love to know more about this range.
     
  3. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    There's another thread about this called " Church's new 137 last" I am the only one who has replied and it was started on 24th May - so I guess the absolute lack of interest is due to SF group think on Church's. I'd love to know more about this range.

    Nope me too, any insider info ?????????????????
     
  4. VelvetGreen

    VelvetGreen Senior member

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    I'd like to know. I'm a Church's fan.
     
  5. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    Why would SF not like Church's?
     
  6. LS7

    LS7 Senior member

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    I posted about this in a new thread a couple of weeks ago: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=245521. My observations were similar to the OP, in that the 137 last they are using for this new range is sleeker than one normally associates with Church's. I will pop into the Canary Wharf store tomorrow and ask to take some pics.
     
  7. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Why would SF not like Church's?

    They're not discussed too often here as their sales presence in the US is pretty limited. From what I've seen at Leffot they make a good solid shoe.
     
  8. LS7

    LS7 Senior member

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    Why would SF not like Church's?

    Lasts not as "exciting" as, for example, EG 888 or JL 7000, plus the non-channeled sole. There have also been threads where the quality of the leather has been called into question, however I'm no expert so I'll leave it for others to comment.
     
  9. countbaron

    countbaron Senior member

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    I think that not many people here (or anywhere) could really say if this leather is that much better than that leather just by looking/felling it when we are talking about high grade shoes.

    I surely am not in that position, but the leather used in the £485 Church's range (betis) is as buttery as they come

    I am partial to Church's to good extent because how easy it is to get good deals in the UK, and I assume the opposite is true for posters living in countries where that is not the case, which I can only guess includes the US and we know that SF is US-heavy. That would to some extent justify Church’s bad rep in SF.

    Other than price/quality ratio the other complains commonly are: ‘it is owned by prada’, and the lasts, colouring are boring

    I don’t think the 1st issue is pertinent, but I agree that C&J have a nicer variety than Church’s. However, many benchgrade C&J’s are significantly more fragile than Custom Grade church’s

    Anyway, what about this new 137 ‘beasts’ ??
     
  10. Jermyn

    Jermyn Senior member

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    I was wondering about this the other day.

    I saw a shoe that looked like it was made from museum/ radica calf in Church's on Bond Street. I'm guessing this must be the same range you're all talking about. I'd never seen Church's use such interesting leathers before.

    I only work around the corner so I'll pop in tomorrow and ask about them.

    I think American SFers don't like Church's because they don't have access to their custom grades at £160 like we do. My Bicester beauties are holding up wonderfully, especially considering that they are my go to shoe whenever it rains.

    I've been polishing a pair of brown Nevada Calf Waltons with red polish for the last 6 months and they're already starting to develop a great character. The leather is very supple and easy to maintain. Last-wise they are certainly a lot sleeker than most Aldens (which also do not have concealed channel soles) [​IMG]

    My one gripe is that the sole overshoots the upper, giving what I refer to as a 'squiddy' appearance. My next order of business will be to see if I can get John Rushton to put some Baker soles on them, cut more closely to the uppers.
     
  11. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    SF'ers don't like Church's because they're under the impression that Prada's ownership of the company has somehow comprised the quality of the shoes.
     
  12. Jangofett

    Jangofett Senior member

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    I've been polishing a pair of brown Nevada Calf Waltons with red polish for the last 6 months and they're already starting to develop a great character. The leather is very supple and easy to maintain. Last-wise they are certainly a lot sleeker than most Aldens (which also do not have concealed channel soles) [​IMG]

    Do you use red shoe polish or red shoe cream?
    I have been using blue shoe polish and shoe cream on my black shoes but they still look as black as ever.
     
  13. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    SF'ers don't like Church's because they're under the impression that Prada's ownership of the company has somehow comprised the quality of the shoes.

    Did the original Church's owners buy Cheaney or something?
     
  14. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Did the original Church's owners buy Cheaney or something?

    yes!
     
  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    I think that not many people here (or anywhere) could really say if this leather is that much better than that leather just by looking/felling it when we are talking about high grade shoes.

    exactly. it takes a lot of experience and knowledge, which i don't have either atm. look and feel can be a factor, but you can fail immensly.

    ...which I can only guess includes the US and we know that SF is US-heavy. That would to some extent justify Church's bad rep in SF.

    Other than price/quality ratio the other complains commonly are: "˜it is owned by prada', and the lasts, colouring are boring


    basic knowledge about shoes is pretty low here. drum beating can be effective, though.
     
  16. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Do you use red shoe polish or red shoe cream?
    I have been using blue shoe polish and shoe cream on my black shoes but they still look as black as ever.


    Can't recolor black.
     
  17. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nope me too, any insider info ?????????????????

    I asked a very reliable source at Church.
    Here is the response:

    HI Nick
    This is what our store signage states:
    Inspired by the echoes of the 1930's, our new luxury collection is the
    pinnacle of everything Church's. Made over the sweeping 137 Last, it
    combines the Finest leather with beautiful hand finishes afforded by our
    experienced Northampton craftsmen.
    Each style is names for some well known historical areas:
    Chatsworth : Wingtip
    Lamport: Captoe
    Burghley: Double buckle monk strap
    * each pair comes with it's own pair of pine shoe trees with brass pull
    ring
     
  18. Leather man

    Leather man Senior member

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    I asked a very reliable source at Church.
    Here is the response:

    HI Nick
    This is what our store signage states:
    Inspired by the echoes of the 1930's, our new luxury collection is the
    pinnacle of everything Church's. Made over the sweeping 137 Last, it
    combines the Finest leather with beautiful hand finishes afforded by our
    experienced Northampton craftsmen.
    Each style is names for some well known historical areas:
    Chatsworth : Wingtip
    Lamport: Captoe
    Burghley: Double buckle monk strap
    * each pair comes with it's own pair of pine shoe trees with brass pull
    ring



    Thank you Nick - all very informative. Would you feel able to contact your source again to find out if the soles are made from oak bark tanned leather ( I feel they ought to be at this price - is it £630 or £660?) - also I'd like to know if the trees are lasted or generic in shape. Quite understand if you feel you can't ask your source again about this range.

    Peter
     
  19. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    I think American SFers don't like Church's because they don't have access to their custom grades at £160 like we do.


    [​IMG] Why don't our friends across the pond proxy for us?! I would definitely try Church's for that price plus a proxy fee!

    Herring Shoes sells them for at least 255 BP plus shipping (and those are the discounted ones!) [​IMG]
     
  20. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you Nick - all very informative. Would you feel able to contact your source again to find out if the soles are made from oak bark tanned leather ( I feel they ought to be at this price - is it £630 or £660?) - also I'd like to know if the trees are lasted or generic in shape. Quite understand if you feel you can't ask your source again about this range.

    Peter


    Just asked.....The soles are oak bark tanned.
    The trees are made specifically for the 137 last.
    They are only available in the Church stores in the U.S. ("for the time being").
     

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