new ties -- passagio

[marcodalondra]



I did have one thought on the vintage debate... if you like old school retro-style silk / ties, why not just thrift actual old ties? Can anything be done to "freshen" or "refurbish" an older tie??

It is a good point and I have plenty of vintage ties (mostly passed onto me), however is difficult for vintage tie to be in very good condition, and some are indeed too shorts. However with this approach http://www.styleforum.net/t/306495/dissection-and-reconstruction-of-a-charles-tyrwhitt-grenadine you could also wash the fabric and re-assemble the tie with fresh/top quality interlining.

 

[gsugsu]

Came across this site which has partnered with Antonio Muro to produce small runs of vintage fabric ties.

http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/2013/03/26/shop-antonio-muro-ties-from-vintage-silks/

But the last paragraph on the site is interesting:

"Unlike more known tiemakers from Naples (I shall not mention names), the Antonio Muro family makes all ties itself. There is a transparent relation between name and a product."

Lack of transparency is what brings us here now isn't it?

 

[Harold falcon]



anyone of the same mind that the custom initials on PC ties are inelegant and detract from the overall presentation of the ties?

Case in point:

then the different fabric for the blades, kind of questionable from an esthetic point of view:

oh, then the stained vintage thirst

finally, this little flub

Wow, those look like ****. He should be ashamed to sell that garbage.

 

[gsugsu]

Indeed, Harold, indeed

 

[teoky]

Would like to know, how's Antonio Muro tie's quality compare to other more well known SF approved brands such as Hober, Vanda, EG Capelli etc.

 

[gsugsu]



Would like to know, how's Antonio Muro tie's quality compare to other more well known SF approved brands such as Hober, Vanda, EG Capelli etc.

I don't have any first hand experience but I have heard very good things from members who do have his ties.

 

[C&A]



I don't have any first hand experience but I have heard very good things from members who do have his ties.

Solid construction. I was wearing this linen Muro tie today.

And for those who like bar tacks

Apart from Grunewald his ties are also sold online by Will whatshisname from SF.

 

[StockwellDay]

^Exquisite Trimmings as well.

 

[teoky]

I don't have any first hand experience but I have heard very good things from members who do have his ties.

Solid construction. I was wearing this linen Muro tie today.

And for those who like bar tacks

Apart from Grunewald his ties are also sold online by Will whatshisname from SF.

^Exquisite Trimmings as well.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Will check them out.

 

[sstokol]

Good tip @gsugsu ... hadn't heard of them before. Will have to check them out.

 

[teoky]

It's because they aren't mentioned much around here. Maybe someone with first hand experience should start an Antonio Mura appreciation thread.

 

[C&A]



I have been waiting for mine for 2 months also. However, unlike you I took no notice of people like the OP who started all the rumours as he contradicts himself.
Anyway, how do people do business? What he was first accused of has been standard business practice for years. Bribing clients with free gifts, lunch and drinks for a contract is no different than sending someone a free tie.
At first he claimed that those 'vintage' fabrics were not as hard to find as GC claimed. Then he insinuated they were not 'vintage'?
I try not to listen, and I certainly would not judge by a photo.
Believe half of what you see and none of what you hear.
I was not too interested in the age of the silk anyway, but more in the selection he had to offer.
When I do receive mine if the silk is sub standard and the tie poorly constructed I will send it back.
Until I can judge for myself I will not jump on the bandwagon of condemnation and judge someone on gossip.
I will give him the benefit of the doubt. That is only fair.

I think it is way too easy to brush these controversies off as something that was started by SartodiNapoli like @hymo also tried to do on page 4 of this thread.

When SartodiNapoli initially started screaming and shouting at Gianni there was no involvement at all of myself or T4Phage. Actually at that time I wasn't looking at the Passaggio Cravatte thread that much and I continued to patronize Passaggio at that time.

If you go 2 pages back in this thread you can read what I/we found out recently about Gianni's business practices. SartodiNapoli then jumped on the bandwagon, as did others.

I really believe that the **** storm that is now hitting Gianni, could have been avoided by him if he would have addressed my reasonable questions about inkjet printed silks heads on. Rather than dodging the question and blaming others. He could have even turned it into something positive for his business if he would have made an honest "official statement" and offering a resolution for those who felt misled. Of course, that would only have been necessary for those who were buying his ties and paying the premium for his unique selling point (HAND PRINTED VINTAGE OF WHICH ONLY FEW METERS ARE LEFT AND THAT ARE 40-80 Y/O), not for those who now keep repeating that the vintage aspect is just a minor one, or even totally unimportant.

Now the fact that Gianni decided to issue an "official statement" that is bending the truth and again contains falsities means that either he is willingly lying to his (former and current) customers or just doesn't know a thing about fabrics. I think its a case of both actually.

 

[Claghorn]

Given the discrepancy between his first post in his thread and the official statement, the first is obviously true. Don't know about the second, and given the verity of the first, it is really a moot point to me.

 

[C&A]



Take it your finished with Passagio Crawatte, C&A?

Yes, certainly after Gianni decided to keep on bullshitting. Have you seen the posts in which he described how he dates the silk? Being a thirsts antiquarian, saying its all in the touch - which according all the people we have spoken with that handle tie silks for a living either printing or selling them is total nonsense - and comparing his job with people that date whiskey by tasting?

Thank you for your kind remarks. If the people who trust and because it is good. I do my best for them. My secret is my experience due to my passion. When a fabric is really vintage i understand in 2 seconds. Just the sight and touch. And you can perfectly understand why thou also. If one day we can meet and i will touch a vintage fabric and a modern, and see that you know yourself. I want you both really conscious of what you buy.

AND I remind you that, in any case, it is for 4 years that i ties. But already at 12-13 years i was already in the midst of the fabrics. First because my grandfather was a bespoke tailor. AND according to my passion. Also because this job for me and only passion and my life. With this passion exceeds any mountain. And when you have the passion and the unshakeable will the times they shorten a lot. But this whole and in every Sector.

AND the most important guarantee for my customers i am myself. This is because they know perfectly well that I do not wear never a product of low quality. But this is linked to every detail that I am wearing. In fact, in choosing the fabrics are a big selfish. OR like me or not I choose.

So are peaceful and happy. And I'm proud of my service and my bespoke vintage fabrics, hand printed many years ago. And thanks to the criticism better every day.

Right question. My work is like that of an antiquarian. How does an antique dealer to determine the date of a piece of furniture? It's the same for me. How do I determine the dates of the fabrics? Meanwhile we want to culture. The culture you need to understand immediately that years place the drawing. Then ask a first macro evaluation. And then come down in detail.

For example look at the colors and li comparisons with those of the various eras. Look at the back. Look at the print. Look at the threads themselves of the fabric. Touches the finishing. Look at the type of fabric. AND on the basis of the type of fabric you can understand much. For example, if you have historical culture you can already understand if that type of fabric that you're touching was used in that period period of crisis.

So as you can understand very well by scotch with which are rolled up the fabrics. And you can understand only if you have also studied the different types of scotch. By scotch a serious professional may already understand how many years and they rolled the fabric.

Then another important factor is the selvedge. It can be seen its color, its finishing and her writings.

In short, there are many cultural factors that allow me to get to establish a date. We certainly want to culture. Therefore I say always ask me. I am doing this for 4 years. And already before i studied books and i did a lot of research. But this is because i like to die for what i do. AND my passion is true for the tissues from habit.

You need are at your complete disposal.

 

[C&A]



Given the discrepancy between his first post in his thread and the official statement, the first is obviously true. Don't know about the second, and given the verity of the first, it is really a moot point to me.

And I honestly don't understand why SF management is not requiring Gianni to do that at the very least. I've seen this being suggested by both you and @emptym already some time ago.