NEW TAILOR BESPOKE NAPLES

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Gianni Cerutti, Oct 9, 2013.

  1. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Since yesterday I showed you back ..... today I decided to show the true face of this bespoke vintage ties made of 4 Foulds all unlined and all hemmed by hand. That blue to me continues to seduce me a lot.
     


  2. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Excuse me a moment but I was very confused in posting this news. I mixed up the thread of my tailor with my sales thread ... I'm just struck by lightning =)

    Forgive me.
     


  3. Mute

    Mute Senior member

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    Beautiful suit Gianni and love the blue in that tie, wrong thread or not. Thank you for sharing this information.
     


  4. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Just to had to the Spalla Insellata observation and Neapolitan tailoring:

    This is one of the known example of shoulder construction known in Naples. The lightness and confortability of Neapolitan jackets are there with manica a camicia, manica a mappina and with Rollino/spalla insellata combo.

    What is more, the insellata was actually a trend in the 70's, and was ordered more often across the city tailors along with the other two shoulder construction, and most tailors that have worked in any if the famous Sartoria in those years (again like De Nicola, Blasi, Schiraldi, Gallo etc) would know how to make it. those tailors are in their 50-60-70 now and include people like Panico, Solito, Volpe, Di Domenico and surely Pirozzi and selected others. They know each other and have often great respect for each other as they have worked together as kids in the great Sartoria.

    So back to the Insellata shoulder, it is a particular shoulder that have gone out of trend and does look a bit costume, and it does not indicate more or less that a tailor is better then another. I think I have seen example of a moderate version o this shoulder coming even out of Rubinacci for Whany on this forum...

    Cifonelli ( who in Italy is considered an Italian Tailor with an outpost in Paris whilst on this forum is a French tailor???) is famous for is version of insellata...
     


  5. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    Well, though Cifonelli started in Roma at the end of the XIXth, they opened in Paris in the1920s, where they have their workshop and where work both Cifonelli cousins. So it's a little more than an outpost. It would be like saying that Berluti is an italian shomaker.
     


  6. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

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    Also I believe Cifonelli Roma closed, while the Paris "outpost" appears to be thriving. While the Roman branch may have had an illustrious past, I would wager that the Paris branch's past was just as illustrious if not more so.

    But more to your point, I agree the Insellata style definitely has in part a 70s bespoke vibe to it. And agree that there is at least visually a similarity with some Cifonelli I have seen.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013


  7. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Both outposts have worked in parallel for many years, and the style Cifonelli has been imported into France from Italy. Looking at many of the famous French tailors, I can see most Italian surname, which suggest the establishment of Italian tailoring tradition into France, adapting for taste development in that country. I believe Berluti produces some if not most shoes in Italy as well.

    Different story for Mellerio dits Meller, the oldest jeweller in France, with a root in Italy..
     


  8. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    You're right. Many of the biggest names originate from Italy (Francesco Smalto, de Luca, cifonelli...).

    Yes Berluti manufactures its rtw line in Italy (and so does Cifonelli I believe).

    Anyway, Mimmo Pirozzi seems to be very talented, although I'm not sure I would wear such spalla.
     


  9. Bespoke 51

    Bespoke 51 Well-Known Member

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    Fassbinder, Really elegant. A beautiful fabric to make in that style. I personally love the shoulder as it screams bespoke! Terrific cut and gorgeous in all aspects.
     


  10. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    By that logic, Anderson & Sheppard would be Swedish because Per Anderson was a Swede. Whatever their origin, Cifonelli and the other Italian tailors who migrated to Paris created a distinct French look - roped shoulders, fish mouth notch lapel and columnar silhouette - that wouldn't be confused with an Italian coat.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013


  11. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    I agree with you. Mimmo Pirozzi of Via Chiaia is a real talent. And more and more I wear his clothes I can not wear other clothes bespoke I have. is his cut to be the only one. And he does all kinds of shoulder. He is also the one on the shirt. But regardless of the shoulder is his cut and his personality in the process that can make each dress unique.
     


  12. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    If you look at Italian and European coats from the 60-70 you ll see many example of this distinctive French look you mention. The A&S story is a bit different, but as Scholte, both may have indeed brought the softer cut from Sweeden as in fact the both are quite different then the rest of the row...
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013


  13. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    :teach:
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013


  14. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Here is my latest creation by bespoke Pirozzi. It is a double-breasted cashmere coat with vintage martingale. The fabric I got it from Il Vecchio Drappiere of Milan.

    Look at the beauty of the shoulder and some details.

    I leave you any comment.



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  15. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Spalla a pagoda, if I'm not mistaken. It's striking. I remember seeing pictures of Vittorio de Sica with a similar coat construction. Having said that, the look is too flashy for my taste.
     


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