Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Gianni Cerutti, Oct 9, 2013.
Any pics of single breasted suits?
Gianni told me about this thread, so I thought I would contribute. Several months ago I had a piece of the London Lounge Fox Flannel, brown with a cream double stripe. It was beautiful, but somewhat old fashioned and I did not know which tailor I would give it to until I saw Gianni's blog and was inspired. I was struck by the beauty of Gianni's suit, especially the shoulders and hand work. After corresponding with Gianni a couple of times I decided to give his tailor, Mimmo Pirrozi in Naples a try.
Mimmo can probably make all types of suits/shoulders but he seems to be particularly known for the Spalla Insellata, or saddle shoulder. I am not a technical person so don't bother to ask me to explain this type of shoulder, I just found it quite beautiful. In fact in I found the appearance of these somewhat concave shoulders along with the generous lapels more reminiscent Tommy Nutter or Lorenzo Ciffonelli's more aggressive double breasted suits, than the other Neopolitan tailors I was familiar with. But the suit is also very Italian in appearance (no one could ever mistake this for British or French bespoke). As Gianni mentions this is an old Naples technique and style. Despite the appearance, the shoulder is unpadded, the shaping is done through cutting, hand sewing, and with the iron. Of course there is some stuff at the roping, but that is about it. The canvas is also very light and the suit is extremely comfortable, everything you expect from a hand made Neopolitian suit.
I had three fittings in Naples. But each fitting was like two separate fittings. In the morning we had a fitting and then Mimmo would start reworking the suit. An hour later or several hours later after he made adjustments we would have another fitting. He was very generous with his time showing me how he worked by hand and explaining everything along the way (unfortunately my comprehension of Italian is minimal). His pride in his craft was obvious and it was a pleasure to spend time with him.
Here are some pictures Gianni took while my suit was under construction.
Unfortunately Gianni was not there to photograph the final product. I will post some fit pics in the next few days, when I get around to it but they will most likely be iphone self shots.
My next one will be a single breasted, three piece. He had many SB suits in his workroom.
thanks for your question ... here is a picture of a very special single-breasted . This jacket by Pirozzi was made with the inverted shoulder . is a model of the shoulder that was used in 1800 and that most do not know anyone. It has a round even closer and offers even more comfort . This is a dress that was built exactly as in 1800. And he thinks that in 1800 Pirozzi told me that there was still the technique in tailoring . There was only the genius and talent . In fact there were no paper models or something. And he still cuts today as then .
Of course he can do any type of shoulder. I 've wanted to post this because it is truly unique . And then look at the line of revers ... they are truly a sight ... I so I had never seen. And then look at that class by the person. that gentleman looks like a king even if it is not. And I think that dress I saw in reality ... it was something shocking . For me Pirozzi is unique. In fact, even though I have a passion for double- breasts , next year I will do a 3 buttons so .. I've also got the fabric. I took it from the Old Linen table of Milan, which specializes in vintage fabrics .
What do you think of this dress ?
Thanks for the pic. That suit sure is different than what I've used to seeing.
This, depicting the Marquis de Custine circa 1835 from the classical Russian film,
The Russian Ark (2002) is an example of the shoulder when it was not "costume"
Nice pictures and great find, but please do not promote wrong stories: grey sartorias have always had many people working in them, look at pictures of Schiraldi, old Blasi, etc.. These were the places that formed the next two generations of tailors.
You have found just a small tailoring operation that does small volumes and therefore does every steps of te jacket himself, but in any case a jacket does not pass in hundreds of hands in any traditional Neapolitam Sartoria, probably the cutter and a couple of people doing canvasses and sleeves/details plus some time a ricamatrice doing button holes.
Also he seem to do a spalla insellata similar to the other Pirozzi, and I wonder if they are not related.
I know you like to promote the traditional ways of constructions like in your ties, but everything is not like 100 years ago all the time.
Do not get this the wrong way, but is better to give a balanced view, and it is not in the negative spirit of the previous guy
Again nice find and nice pictures
^^^ All true,
but the nice thing about a forum isn't that one doesn't need to provide balance as there will always be other voices to provide the other side (as you have just done)
Thank you very much for your kind words about the images .
I do not share your view. I do not want mica invent a new story. The truth is that today all the Neapolitan jackets look alike . They lost the class once . And above all, gone are the great teachers who are able to convey different personalities dress according to the customer . I chose Pirozzi of Via Chiaia because I sent more professional than all the others. Pirozzi of Via Chiaia has a cut, a process and an ancient genius that no one does. It dates back to the late 1800s . And I say this because it is under the eyes of all . Just enter his tailoring and see its jackets. Sometimes the pictures do not convince .
And today than in the past in tailoring have changed 2 things :
1 ) the great masters are over. Today there are new generations ... but do not measure up compared to their masters . The last masters exceed 75 years.
2 ) and the great masters of the past had the workers magical . For example, a tailoring without a good sewer then was unthinkable.
But we are in a forum and I think the beauty of diversity is a value. So thank you again for your opinion , for me it 's always important .
Mr Cerruti, thanks for your reply, but have family pictures from 1800 early 1900 of Neapolitan aristocrats, lawyers, doctors, all wearing suits and none have a spalla insellata. Most old masters that trained under Schiraldi, Gallo, Blasi etc, and there are few of them left in the city, can do more then one shoulder construction, all being softer then the English tradition . Most people ask for a manica camicia and that is what they get, even your tailor is seen in pictures with such a jacket. I believe Banis, an older member, had shown another less known tailor doing a similar cut, and was just above 30. Nothing against Mimmo Pirozzi, but is not the only true left master.
That is a serious sculpted shoulder and real hard to pull off..
of course it's difficult and not everyone can do it. Anyway, it seems carved but it is actually very soft. Watch this my jacket. is a jacket with shoulder and sleeve shirt. is always Pirozzi. is a vintage linen, all unlined and with martingale behind. This is one of my favorite jackets. seems not to wear anything. it's almost like wearing a shirt. the photos I've taken I always
I wanted to post some fit pics. I am not a good photgapher, and I didn't have anyone to help me, so I just took these with my iphone, but I think you can get a sense of the shoulder shape, chest, waist, etc. The one thing the photos are not able to convey is the fluidity and ease of movement in this suit. Obviously the style might not be to everyones taste, but I am sure most can apreciate the artistry and craft necessary for creating this type of work.
Fantastic ... how it works Pirozzi of Via Chiaia 197 no one works. Look at that masterpiece of art that is this jacket. Fantastic. Perfect. And I agree with you on the fluidity and ease of movement. With my clothes Pirozzi I might even go for a run that I do not feel them on me. Then the line can give him is truly unique. You can give an imposing only. It is also the beautiful fabric. Compliments. Great taste.
Gianni thank you for the nice words. And thank you for recommending Pirozzi to me.
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