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NEW TAILOR BESPOKE NAPLES

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Gianni Cerutti, Oct 9, 2013.

  1. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    This time I will share with you the experience I had in meeting the teacher Domenico Pirozzi of Naples. But it is not the Pirozzi that everyone knows. It has the same name but in my opinion, this of which I speak , is much better . Indeed, for me is one of signposting Neapolitan tailors . I say this after having tried several .

    He is not famous and do not even want to become. He is the only one in Naples that is built like a jacket at the end of 1800. That is when the big tailors had not yet invented the Neapolitan jacket we all know.

    His tailoring is located in the center of Naples. E ' in a building of 700 in Via Chiaia 197.

    I approached him about a year ago. I did it because seeing his jacket to wear one of my clients was struck . That jacket was perfect . Then my client introduced me to the Master Domenico Pirozzi .

    Its cut and its processing are unique. Often the jacket in great dressmakers passes through 10 different hands . And so the jacket runs the risk of losing personality. In short, the more the jacket goes into different hands and becomes more of a jacket package.

    Pirozzi instead he does it all . From beginning to end . And he does it with passion and profession. What he does ask . It makes you saddled the shoulder , the shoulder-to- shoulder shirt and overturned. But with a unique class .

    This is because it is not enough to cut and sew fabric hand . Otherwise they would be able to everyone. Instead Pirozzi is able to convey a touch of genius that makes each piece special. And when I'm down the street with his dress often people turn around. I say this because often Apita .

    Then his two breasts are the most beautiful I've ever seen in my life . They make you feel like a king even when you're not !

    To understand what I'm saying I want to show pictures of my double realize that I have done recently.

    The fabric I bought from Il Vecchio Drappiere of Milan. It ' a shop that specializes in vintage fabrics for clothing. See that this is a fabric that has more than 50 years.

    Look at the shoulders, neck and all the details of processing.

    I really hope you can be useful to address this in Naples. To contact me you can send an email to: pirozzi.viachiaia197@gmail.com . Also because he has no website . It ' true craftsman .

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    9 people like this.
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think GC uploads more pictures per post than any other affilliate vendor, and the forum is certainly better for it :)
     
    3 people like this.
  3. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    look at this other jacket that Pirozzi is creating me. It is always a double-breasted with shoulder saddled as in the early 1900s.

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    The great thing is really his hand in the cut and shape the fabric. The fabric in his hands becomes like a stone in the hands of a sculptor. The stitching you like a second skin.

    And this fabric is fantastic. Both fabrics have found them by VecchioDrappiere of Milan. They are very specialized in vintage. And you think that this fabric of the jacket that you see is an old Zegna in 1950. It 'really fantastic.

    The pants are a surprise instead. I'm always in wool vintage. I've always found the VecchioDrappiere of Milan. Even that is a Zegna in 1950.

    Next week I'm going to do the second test Pirozzi ... I can not wait to be over. I will show you the pictures of the second test ... so you will also discover the pants.

    What do you think?
     
    3 people like this.
  4. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    To judge anything you really need to provide pictures of you wearing the finished garment, with and without coat, all four views as well as pictures of the detail finish - trousers and inside the coat. These are little more than decorative.
     
  5. Victor Elfo

    Victor Elfo Senior member

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    You should get paid for your trolling, because you truly are a professional.
     
  6. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    thank you very much for the nice words. I'm not a professional. I'm just a fan of besoke handmade 360 °. And then I'm also a fan of photography
     
  7. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    thanks for your explanation. Really. But I do not understand what you mean when you ask me what I do see all 4 views. What do you mean? As soon as the head is over I'll show you every angle. thanks again for your advice
     
  8. Victor Elfo

    Victor Elfo Senior member

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    I wasn't addressing you, I truly enjoyed your post and I'm looking forward to more.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Oh thank you ... you're really very kind. In fact Pirozzi for me is really unique ... with my work I hi seen lots of clothes of my clients and tailors his clothes .. but as I have not seen anything. It has a line and a cut and unique workmanship. And then when you're wearing a dress her before many eyes that looked at you now do not look at you with much appreciation.
     
  10. uniesse

    uniesse Senior member

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    Thanks for this.
     
  11. aph999

    aph999 Senior member

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    Outstanding. This is why I came to the Styleforum.
     
  12. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Love it. Keep it coming and show more finished garments.
     
  13. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    thank you very much for your beautiful words. Really. In my small way, to be passionate, I try to be able to document from Italy who really makes things out of the ordinary. Also because everyone says they do bespoke suits ... but few are those who know how to make masterpieces. And when a jacket passes in 100 different hands has lost all that uniqueness that allows him to become a masterpiece. Instead Pirozzi he does it all. Just like over 100 years ago. Cuts, sews, stretches and forms to the body of the customer the fabric. So does it all and he alone with his hands.
     
  14. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    thank you very much for your beautiful words. Really. In my small way, to be passionate, I try to be able to document from Italy who really makes things out of the ordinary. Also because everyone says they do bespoke suits ... but few are those who know how to make masterpieces. And when a jacket passes in 100 different hands has lost all that uniqueness that allows him to become a masterpiece. Instead Pirozzi he does it all. Just like over 100 years ago. Cuts, sews, stretches and forms to the body of the customer the fabric. So does it all and he alone with his hands.
     
  15. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Domenico Pirozzi And this is not to be confused with his namesake who is not as good as him. He tailoring in Via Chiaia 197 in Naples
     
  16. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Any pics of single breasted suits?
     
  17. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

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    Gianni told me about this thread, so I thought I would contribute. Several months ago I had a piece of the London Lounge Fox Flannel, brown with a cream double stripe. It was beautiful, but somewhat old fashioned and I did not know which tailor I would give it to until I saw Gianni's blog and was inspired. I was struck by the beauty of Gianni's suit, especially the shoulders and hand work. After corresponding with Gianni a couple of times I decided to give his tailor, Mimmo Pirrozi in Naples a try.

    Mimmo can probably make all types of suits/shoulders but he seems to be particularly known for the Spalla Insellata, or saddle shoulder. I am not a technical person so don't bother to ask me to explain this type of shoulder, I just found it quite beautiful. In fact in I found the appearance of these somewhat concave shoulders along with the generous lapels more reminiscent Tommy Nutter or Lorenzo Ciffonelli's more aggressive double breasted suits, than the other Neopolitan tailors I was familiar with. But the suit is also very Italian in appearance (no one could ever mistake this for British or French bespoke). As Gianni mentions this is an old Naples technique and style. Despite the appearance, the shoulder is unpadded, the shaping is done through cutting, hand sewing, and with the iron. Of course there is some stuff at the roping, but that is about it. The canvas is also very light and the suit is extremely comfortable, everything you expect from a hand made Neopolitian suit.


    I had three fittings in Naples. But each fitting was like two separate fittings. In the morning we had a fitting and then Mimmo would start reworking the suit. An hour later or several hours later after he made adjustments we would have another fitting. He was very generous with his time showing me how he worked by hand and explaining everything along the way (unfortunately my comprehension of Italian is minimal). His pride in his craft was obvious and it was a pleasure to spend time with him.

    Here are some pictures Gianni took while my suit was under construction.
    Unfortunately Gianni was not there to photograph the final product. I will post some fit pics in the next few days, when I get around to it but they will most likely be iphone self shots.


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  18. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

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    My next one will be a single breasted, three piece. He had many SB suits in his workroom.
     
  19. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    thanks for your question ... here is a picture of a very special single-breasted . This jacket by Pirozzi was made with the inverted shoulder . is a model of the shoulder that was used in 1800 and that most do not know anyone. It has a round even closer and offers even more comfort . This is a dress that was built exactly as in 1800. And he thinks that in 1800 Pirozzi told me that there was still the technique in tailoring . There was only the genius and talent . In fact there were no paper models or something. And he still cuts today as then .

    Of course he can do any type of shoulder. I 've wanted to post this because it is truly unique . And then look at the line of revers ... they are truly a sight ... I so I had never seen. And then look at that class by the person. that gentleman looks like a king even if it is not. And I think that dress I saw in reality ... it was something shocking . For me Pirozzi is unique. In fact, even though I have a passion for double- breasts , next year I will do a 3 buttons so .. I've also got the fabric. I took it from the Old Linen table of Milan, which specializes in vintage fabrics .


    What do you think of this dress ?
     
  20. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Thanks for the pic. That suit sure is different than what I've used to seeing.
     

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