New suits - jackets too short?

[richyrich]

Hi everyone,

New to the forum and looking for a critique of suits I bought. The light and dark grey are both SuitSupply Lazio 38s. The navy one is one I own a while made by Gibson London (half polyester suit).

So the light grey one I am already after getting the pants hemmed whereas the dark grey one I have no alterations to it yet.

Originally, I thought the light grey one and the navy one fit really well. I got the pants let out on the light grey one, and both the navy and light grey pants hemmed. I know the navy suit sleeves need to be reduced.

What I am worried about is the length of the jackets. They all cover the rear and from the side I think they fit well according to the charts I have seen. I am just worried about how they look from the front. Do they show too much crotch area ie too short?

It is too late to send back the light grey one but the dark grey I could as it is unaltered. If its okay but not perfect in the length that is fine by me as I dont think I will get another one from Suitsupply that will fit better than this (pants too baggy on the other sizes was one big issue).

Also, sometimes my cuff falls too far down giving me an inch or inch and a quarter of sleeve. I was testing it last night when wearing a watch and the watch hand looked perfect. Reckon if I get the cuff on my non-watch hand slimmed it would stop slipping so far down?

Not too worried about the other parts of the suit (back of light grey looks a bit bunched but gf says the picture really exagerates it and its fine IRL, also dark greys vent threads havent been cut hence the more obvious bunching at the back waist band). The light grey trousers I got hemmed but I am not sure if they should be a bit shorter? I am wearing two different shoes for reference to what the potential shoes I would be wearing with the suits are like.

Lastly, I was in a rush taking these photos today so that is why my collar is poking out sometimes, no tie, untied shoes etc.

Thanks

 

[comrade]

Sorry to break this to you, but the suits do not fit. They are too tight across the
middle especially as seen from the back. As far as the length goes, they are not
too short and keeping with the current short, close fitting trend (fad) which
Suit Supply exemplifies. If you wished to dress more classically, you would
wear a longer jacket. The main point is that they are too small. One pizza
might burst a button.

 

[GBR]

Agree send back or burn as the case might be. There is no easy way to say this but.....

These exhibit multiple problems but as comrade advises they just do not fit. If the trousers of the light grey trousers have been altered, was the seamstress drunk? They are at least an inch too long now. The flaps of the coat pockets look as if they were from an earlier decade which makes the whole look clownish. It would embarrass you to continue to list out the problems.

You would be better served by going to a bricks and mortar shop to sample the garments on sale and buy suits which fit. Whilst there forget about buying suits cut from recycled bottles (polyester), don't steal the bottle blowers' raw materials.

 

[Michael81]

The grey Lazio can likely be saved if you let out the midsection and hem the trousers properly (you want either a small break or no break). Return the dark grey Lazio. Burn that navy whatever-it's-called.

In future, buy a regular size instead of a short, or perhaps even go a full size up. Avoid slim-fitting suits. Also, in addition to the problems mentioned above, watch out for how your jackets fit in the shoulder. The navy thing has serious divots. This suggests the arm-holes are too small, which is another indication that you are flying too close to the sun as far as slimness is concerned.

 

[Jim Chu]

I stopped reading at "half polyester".

 

[Caustic Man]

Yup, too small, but too short, too. Size up and you'll get more room across the back and waist, as well as a little extra length.

 

[richyrich]

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies. I am unsure of what area I need to size up in? Is it just the waist on the jacket? Or do I need wider shoulders too? If I let the waist out as Michael suggested, would that solve the too tight issue?

As Michael suggested, I could get a 38r instead of a 38s but the only result is a longer jacket and sleeve. It wont reduce the tightness.

If it is just a case of me being a bit too heavy for the suits, I think I will fix it. Ive lost an inch and a half off my waist in the past month and a bit and (33 -34 currently) and I am looking to drop another inch at least. Would that solve the "too tight" issue? Or is it a shoulder/body width issue?

I cannot go to a brick and mortar store as they pretty much all sell half polyester suits, which is where I got the navy one. That cost the same as the suitsupply ones (300) and Id be looking at paying double for a similar quality one locally.

I got a 40s in the Lazio but the pants were really boxy and baggy. Can they be trimmed in the thigh and the calf area to fit like the ones above?

Lastly, are the issues all of you pointed out likely to be noticed by the average person at work? Or is it the case that this is a style forum so are likely more critical?

 

[jrd617]

Looks too small... return

 

[SW1Y]

Hi all,

1) Thanks for the replies. I am unsure of what area I need to size up in? Is it just the waist on the jacket? Or do I need wider shoulders too? If I let the waist out as Michael suggested, would that solve the too tight issue?

2) As Michael suggested, I could get a 38r instead of a 38s but the only result is a longer jacket and sleeve. It wont reduce the tightness.

3) If it is just a case of me being a bit too heavy for the suits, I think I will fix it. Ive lost an inch and a half off my waist in the past month and a bit and (33 -34 currently) and I am looking to drop another inch at least. Would that solve the "too tight" issue? Or is it a shoulder/body width issue?

4) I cannot go to a brick and mortar store as they pretty much all sell half polyester suits, which is where I got the navy one. That cost the same as the suitsupply ones (300) and Id be looking at paying double for a similar quality one locally.

5) I got a 40s in the Lazio but the pants were really boxy and baggy. Can they be trimmed in the thigh and the calf area to fit like the ones above?

6) Lastly, are the issues all of you pointed out likely to be noticed by the average person at work? Or is it the case that this is a style forum so are likely more critical?

1) The waist is too tight (as noted before), shoulders look acceptable on the 2 SuSu jackets.

2) A regular is usually slimmer through the body than a short, make sure there's enough fabric to let out (probably not with SuSu as their suits are made with barely any excess cloth). The regular fit would probably look more StyFo appropriate though.

3) Yes, losing weight in the midsection is going to make the jacket appear less tight

4) Research research research, spend some money, then research some more, repeat cycle until you're only going to be satisfied with bespoke

5) Yes, but having the trousers hemmed to the appropriate length is going to make them appear somewhat Styleforum appropriate (and slimmer)

6) No, average people don't give a crap about how well put together you look

You know what, even though it's often put bluntly, with regards to advice about traditional menswear, Styleforum is second to none.

 

[richyrich]

1) The waist is too tight (as noted before), shoulders look acceptable on the 2 SuSu jackets.

2) A regular is usually slimmer through the body than a short, make sure there's enough fabric to let out (probably not with SuSu as their suits are made with barely any excess cloth). The regular fit would probably look more StyFo appropriate though.

3) Yes, losing weight in the midsection is going to make the jacket appear less tight

4) Research research research, spend some money, then research some more, repeat cycle until you're only going to be satisfied with bespoke

5) Yes, but having the trousers hemmed to the appropriate length is going to make them appear somewhat Styleforum appropriate (and slimmer)

6) No, average people don't give a crap about how well put together you look

You know what, even though it's often put bluntly, with regards to advice about traditional menswear, Styleforum is second to none.

Thanks for that. Really helpful.

1) I contacted Suitsupply to ask how much can there suit jackets waist be let out. They said there should be up to 7 cm to let the out at the waist, depending on the fit. So they didnt specify how much the lazio 38s has, but I reckon there should be 2-3 cms at least if there is up to 7cm in some fits? I guess the only way to know this is to get the tailor to cut the inside?

2) What do you mean by a regular always being slimmer through the body than a short? As in regulars are more slimming/slim fit than a short?

3) What do you think about the length of the suit jackets in the pictures I posted?

4) My problem is the pants on the 38s are perfect for me in terms of the rise. I need to let out the waist a small bit and obviously get the pants hemmed. If I size up to a 40/40s the pants wont fit at all. I think what I need going by the other posters and yourselfs comments is a wider waisted jacket and a longer jacket if possible.

5) If I go for a 38s Napoli fit it will give me an inch and half more room in the chest but only .4" more room in the upper waist. Same length back but inch more on the shoulders (padding?) So really doesnt do much to solve the tightness at the back caused by the upper waist if it only gives .4 extra on the upper waist?

6) If I for the sienna fit it will give me .4 more in the chest but an extra 2,4 inches in the upper waist, which is what I need. Is that right? Also gives me .4 inch more length on the jacket but the same size sleeves and shoulder as the Lazio which are good with the current Lazio. Judging off the measurements provided by SS I think the Sienna offers the roomer version of the current suit I have but it doesnt add much length. Their description on the website is that it is a softer, less padded shoulder which they say is less formal. I need it for work so not sure if that is what I want.




My o

Sorry about the long rambling post. The graph thing I made is above.I spent absolutely ages trying to make this list to compare the different sizes lol. Hard to make out on here sorry.

Basically, I feel the Sienna is my best bet due to the same pants fit as the current ones I have, while offering a lot more upper waist width as well as a little more room in the chest and a little bit more length. Same sleeve length and shoulder width. Only thing is the hip width on the trousers is an inch more but I hope that wouldnt be an issue

 

[SW1Y]

You should be able to gauge by just feeling the extra inlay over the seam, but if you must know exact, it would be best to open up the lining indeed. There will be allowance left in the jackets to let out, but whether it's going to be enough depends on how comfortable and roomy you want it to be and the amount of fabric inside.

A suit block for a RTW "short" is usually wider through the waist (both jacket and trousers), lower in the rise of the trouser and obviously shorter in length due to shorter men being stockier on average when compared to a regular. A "long" will consequently be slimmer cut through the waist, higher in the rise of the trouser and longer jacket and trouser length overall.

Jacket length is, as with other measurements, very much a personal preference and thus "appropriate length" is often subjective. Personally I wear my jackets probably about an inch longer than those in the pictures above.

With SuSu having a more contemporary approach to tailoring, a lot of their cuts are going to be quite slim. If you are looking for a traditional business suit that will be more or less appropriate now and the decade next, go for the Napoli. When going for alterations, allow yourself some breathing room, avoid excessively tight and aggressively tapered trousers and cropped hems and jackets.

From personal experience (and SuSu website might say otherwise), the Lazio is for ecto's (damn skinny dutch people), the jacket is nipped in the waist but has a comparable shoulder with the Napoli and the trousers are slightly tighter than the Napoli. The Siena is, I would say, equally slim as the Lazio but it doesn't have the padding in shoulders as you noted. If you have the chance, try the Napoli in the same size, it will need some alterations but it's probably going to sit better on you. In terms of office appropriate, yes a natural shoulder will look more relaxed and laid back, but it's only people who are really interested in it that will notice the difference.

If you want to look corporate and stick with SuSu -> Napoli

 

[richyrich]

You should be able to gauge by just feeling the extra inlay over the seam, but if you must know exact, it would be best to open up the lining indeed. There will be allowance left in the jackets to let out, but whether it's going to be enough depends on how comfortable and roomy you want it to be and the amount of fabric inside.

A suit block for a RTW "short" is usually wider through the waist (both jacket and trousers), lower in the rise of the trouser and obviously shorter in length due to shorter men being stockier on average when compared to a regular. A "long" will consequently be slimmer cut through the waist, higher in the rise of the trouser and longer jacket and trouser length overall.

Jacket length is, as with other measurements, very much a personal preference and thus "appropriate length" is often subjective. Personally I wear my jackets probably about an inch longer than those in the pictures above.

With SuSu having a more contemporary approach to tailoring, a lot of their cuts are going to be quite slim. If you are looking for a traditional business suit that will be more or less appropriate now and the decade next, go for the Napoli. When going for alterations, allow yourself some breathing room, avoid excessively tight and aggressively tapered trousers and cropped hems and jackets.

From personal experience (and SuSu website might say otherwise), the Lazio is for ecto's (damn skinny dutch people), the jacket is nipped in the waist but has a comparable shoulder with the Napoli and the trousers are slightly tighter than the Napoli. The Siena is, I would say, equally slim as the Lazio but it doesn't have the padding in shoulders as you noted. If you have the chance, try the Napoli in the same size, it will need some alterations but it's probably going to sit better on you. In terms of office appropriate, yes a natural shoulder will look more relaxed and laid back, but it's only people who are really interested in it that will notice the difference.

If you want to look corporate and stick with SuSu -> Napoli

Thanks again for the reply. That is interesting about the differences in the sizes.

When you say the pants rise is lower on a short, do you mean that the pants are meant to be worn lower on your hip as opposed to where your natural waist is?

Can I take it that the length on my jacket is suitable for the more fashionable look I am going for?

I am gonna order a Napoli 38s tonight and see how I get on with it. The shoulders are almost an inch more on the Napoli though. WIll that be okay because of the extra padding?

Lastly, I find that I show too much cuff but my cuff length is perfect on the wrist that I wear a watch, even if I switch the wrist that it is on.

Is the likely reason I am showing too much cuff being that my cuffs are too wide (I have thin wrists). The shirt was perfect when I first bought it, but after a wash it is showing a little too much cuff. I initially thought it may have been stretched from hanging it out to dry, but after wearing a watch it seems to me like the cuff diameter is the issue.

Thanks!!

 

[Caustic Man]

Here is my experience with Suit Supply, for whatever it's worth to you. I usually wear a 40R in most brands OTR options, but SS is so slim and short (in keeping with current trends I suppose) that I have to size up to a 42R. The 42R usually provides enough room in the chest and waist, and sizing up provides the extra length since most SS jackets are cut way too short. Hence my recommendation to size up.

 

[Michael81]

I consider myself a 48L, but also size up to a 50L to get a better length and button stance. But I have a tall, slim physique so my jackets have to be taken in quite a lot in the waist.

That's the thing about #menswear: the farther down the rabbit hole you go, the more problematic RTW becomes - and the more expensive the tailoring gets.

 

[richyrich]

Thanks Caustic.

I am a 40" chest and in my very limited experience of buying suits, I believed I needed a 40R. I ordered a 40R Napoli and I was literally swimming in it. I looked like a gangster rapper from the early 90s. Then I ordered a 40s and a 38s Lazio, and later another 38s which is the dark grey one, I returned the 40s as the pants were way too baggy on me, everywhere except the waist which was good but will now be too large for me as I have lost weight. So the pants on any 40s will not fit so it is 38s or maybe a 38r. Anyway, I have ordered a 38s in a Napoli and I will see how that fits. Tempted now to order a 38r as well to see if it is better. It will give me 1.2 " more on the jacket length but also 1.2" more on the sleeves. Sleeves are perfect the way they are in the napoli at the moment.

Thing that is putting me off most though is the inner leg is 1.7 inches more, which may make me look short?