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New suit.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Alias, Mar 6, 2005.

  1. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Nice suit. Thanks for posting the detail pics so we neophytes can see the hand stitching.
     
  2. Count Basie

    Count Basie Member

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    Alias,

    Are you talking about the tailor shop located in the 1st sub-level of the actual hotel or the one located in the arcade? I always pass by both when I go to the cigar shop in the hotel. Just curious, how did you hear of the tailor shop? Also, do you know of any other reputable tailors in Korea? Thinking of going bespoke if I could get one for a decent price. Thanks.
     
  3. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    The shop is called "Sartoria Min," and technically it's on the hotel sublevel... but the entrance is outside, in the COEX mall.

    There are other tailors located in the hotel sublevel, among them Zenith, which charges more but has a lot more fabric selection, including Holland & Sherry, Zegna, and Loro Piana. Still, $1,800 is a bit tough for me to justify. Someone posted a favorable review a long time ago, however.

    And, as always, Itaewon gets my thumbs-down. Still have to try out Myongdong and see if I can't find someone there.

    I will now go and wash my shirt, then toss it into the dryer.
     
  4. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Looks great Alias, thanks for sharing the pix. At that price, it was a steal too.

    My tailor puts a topstitch on almost all of the seams on all of his suits. I'm on the fence about it. Looks very bespoke, but maybe a little gaudy. Meh, only those in the know will ever notice anyway.

    Oh, and in case you're taking a poll, I vote for adding .25" to the coat sleeves.
     
  5. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Huh...? Alias's suit and Black Label aren't even close, cut wise. The fabrics on each are entirely different as well. I'll post some pics of my new BL suit this week.
     
  6. gorgekko

    gorgekko Senior member

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    I'm with Johnny on this one.
     
  7. dietcookie

    dietcookie Senior member

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    No way, suit looks awesome. I like the sleeve length.
     
  8. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I like the suit, but notice where your eyes go first. With me, it's straight to the cuffs -- too much cuff showing. It looks like over 1". Even assuming that the sleeves were .25" too long (which I doubt, since the cuff of the shirt seems nicely fitted to his wrist size -- I bet it is a MTM/bespoke shirt), he'd still want to drop the sleeves at least .5". With that much cuff, the suit looks too stylized, when in fact it is a classic fabric and cut.
     
  9. MCA

    MCA Well-Known Member

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    Nice job Alias, congrats.

    I think a slight reduction in the amount of cuff exposed by lengthening of the sleeves would enhance the harmony of proportions. Also it seems to me from the picture, considering it is a 2-button, that the buttoning point is more above the narrowest part of the waist than my ideal. Were you looking after this higher than usual, elongating button stance? Cheers.
     
  10. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Yeah, the button stance was my choice. It's a high two-button. I do this because I'm 5'4".

    And I don't wanna lengthen the suit sleeves. I should have worn a button-cuff shirt, since that shows less cuff than the french cuff I'm wearing. Stupid thin wrists...
     
  11. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    (MilanoStyle @ Mar. 06 2005,08:34) How much is this costing you in $US? From the pic, it looks fantastic.
    Thanks for the compliments. It cost $1,200 US. It's made of the top-grade domestic fabric which is in fact very good; SK has a good textile industry which is unfortunately losing ground to the Chinese. I'm afraid of having my trousers cut wider. I think that would make me look even shorter. Anyways, tomorrow I'll discuss the alternatives with the tailor.
    Alias, $1,200 for your new suit? I thought you once mentioned that you won't pay more than $500 for one? [​IMG]
     
  12. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    I think that the shirt's sleeve length looks good. The best solution may be to make the cuffs of the jacket sleeves slightly smaller.
     
  13. gorgekko

    gorgekko Senior member

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    I think the shirt's sleeve length is fine...judging by that first photo it hits in that spot between the wrist bones and the top of the bone that leads to your thumb. If my perception is correct, that means the coat sleeve length is about half an inch too short.
     
  14. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

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    I agree that the shirt sleeves look fine but the jacket sleeves look short.

    Alias, did you specifically ask for such short sleeves or did they just turn out this way?
     
  15. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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  16. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    What a wonderful suit Alias. Excellent collaboration between you and your artisan. I find the cut and silhouette timeless and elegant. The placement of the buttoning point is perfect and accentuates the vertical - from the pictures one wouldn't guess that you are 5'4. Although the sleeve could be lengthened a touch....
     
  17. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    I asked for them this way.

    Another long story short: First jacket had sleeves too long, I hated the look since it made me look stumpy. Mr. Min was gracious enough to recut the whole jacket (a complete surprise.) and the sleeves are now the way they are. In actuality, the suit sleeve ends right at that bony stub on my wrist. I think with my other shirts the cuff would peek out maybe 3/4"; I do this because my arms are kind of long, and I feel it helps with proportion.

    But I totally agree that there's too much shirt showing past the sleeves, hlauhgluhluhagh.

    FCS: Yeah yeah yeah, no more than $500. But this was an experiment, and it has paid off very well.
     
  18. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

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    Fair enough, Mike C. I guess not all slim suits are cut the same. I'd like to see pics of your RLBL suit.
     
  19. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    From what I can tell off the GQ article, the RLBL suits have low button positions and are much tighter around the waist. My jacket has higher buttons and isn't that tight.
     
  20. Count Basie

    Count Basie Member

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    Alias,
    I was holding off until my trip to Hong Kong for a bespoke at Chan's but after seeing your gorgeous suit I'm heavily contemplating going to Min's myself. What would you suggest? Also, did you communicate with him in Korean or in English? Albeit my Korean is very good, I think there would be some intricate details that I would only be able to articulate in English. Again, what a gorgeous suit. Thanks for all the info.
     

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