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New suit: Cad & dandy, Z Zenga, G&H, RLBL or RLPL

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GodAtum, May 29, 2012.

  1. GodAtum

    GodAtum Senior member

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    Hi all,

    I'm looking for a 2nd suit. I've narrowed down my choices to either


    I think RLPL is way above my price range if I'm correct in that price. What would be the best choice of of the other 3?
     
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I would try Cad&Dandy since that is also a well known budget London tailor. You can search my thread on Graham Browne for a good idea of what they also offer.

    If you like the soft style, nothing beats buying a purple label or Kiton. Afterwards you could bring it to the tailor and let him known how your preference of construction

    Forget Z Zenga for their poor construction

    I think Purple suit is around GBP3500 for their standard three piece.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2012
  3. GodAtum

    GodAtum Senior member

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    My only suit atm is Graham Browne which I like but I want to try someone different. I've read the RLPL and RLBL are quite slim fitting which might be good as I'm a skinny guy!
     
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Why not try to communicate with Russell, Dan or Richard about the improvement you would like to have on your next suit? For a rule of thumb ask them to use less canvass, perhaps just two to one layer, depends which they go for, to give you a softer feel if you like that...

    I am a bespoke only guy now. Even I tried the purple suit I find their suit length is badly proportioned. Waistcoat simply too long, trouser rise way too low, with the slightly long jacket. Armholes will never be cut as precise as GB

    I strongly advice on your behalf, that try to ask them about things that you would like to change on the paper pattern, perhaps the structure, design and cloth you would like to improve to be more personalized.

    I am not sure how effective your communication is, but you aren't, try to bring some pictures.

    Your first bespoke suit will bound to be not exactually you want, given time you will never think of purchasing OTR with the premium price and bad proportion.
     
  5. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    There are two directions should consider, in my opinion: i. try someone different (e.g. Cad & the Dandy) or ii. try a higher level of bespoke. Personally, I would continue with the same tailor for at least one more suit/jacket.

    I still wear RTW suits but since going the custom route (mtm and bespoke), cannot imgine going for RTW again.
     
  6. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    I'd try Cad & the Dandy.
     
  7. uhurit

    uhurit Senior member

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    ....I'd learn to spell Zegna, and then not buy it but choose RLBL, assuming one is fit enough to pull it off
     
  8. Jumbie

    Jumbie Senior member

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    Do you feel better about yourself now?
     
  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Isn't Cad Dandy the guy who went around shilling on SF awhile back?
     
  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    This strikes me as an odd comment. RLPL is not "soft" style. Far from it, actually. It's structured English military style. (Kilgour, etc)

    http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6285
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    +1
     
  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Regarding to your inquiry, Purple label had different range of fit although they never say it.

    The old and rare Savile Row fit has a strong shoulder but soft chest, armholes a bit lower than their custom fit, jacket length shorter to give the English look

    The common custom fit is Italian style, low rise trousers, longer waistcoat and jacket.

    Frankly they are overpriced.
     
  13. uhurit

    uhurit Senior member

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    Do you?....by suggesting that I don't and playing an amateur psychologist
     
  14. GodAtum

    GodAtum Senior member

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    I'm a very skinny guy: 34 chest and 28 waist.
     
  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    With that size, there is barely chance to get something fit nicely in London OTR except suitsupply.
     
  16. Jumbie

    Jumbie Senior member

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    I feel great.

    Thanks for asking.
     
  17. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Why would you possibly want to learn that though? Not sure you want to go through that process; your time is better spent elsewhere.
     
  18. JimmyFresh

    JimmyFresh New Member

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    I had my first bespoke suit from Savile Row and did some research.

    If you are thinking along those lines:

    Kilgour offer some great slim cut suits (http://www.kilgour.eu/) as do
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Chittleborough & Morgan on Savile Row[/FONT] (http://www.chittleboroughandmorgan.co.uk/) who seem to share the same address as Cad&Dandy

    I would give both a try.
     
  19. TTO

    TTO Senior member

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    I have had good results with John DeBiose at cad and the dandy, so I can say thats a good option.
    If you are already working with Russell and the guys at Graham Browne , may I ask why you feel the need to change? The stuff I have seen coming out of there has been very good, Simon Cromptons first suit from them ( navy DB ) is still one of the most flattering things I have seen him in, including stuff from Rubinacci, A & S, Poole etc. I went there the other day with another forum member for his fitting and can say that they where very professional and willing to make almost any style of tailoring. I may well try them out for some less structured stuff for next summer.
    If you are after a more traditional British silhouette, aka the Huntsman or Kilgour look the DeBoise is your man though!

    ps- in the same sort of range for British bespoke try out the tailors on Lambs Conduit Street, Simms and MacDonald & Connock and Lockie.

    -TTO
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2012

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